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Okay, I'm rather new at this whole miniature army thing. I've searched the forum, I've checked the FAQ, and my particular question doesn't seem to exist. I'm sure it actually does exist somewhere, but in a few hours of searching I haven't come across it, anyway...

I recently bought Orks, as well as a GW starter hobby set. My son lost my plastic glue. I attempted to use super glue, but I must have used WAY too much... anyway, the glue has overrun from the joints and has hardened on the surface areas I want to paint. Did I just kill my models? Is there a way to clean the excess glue off, or can I just paint over it? I tried scraping some of it off, but that just seems to have given it a rough texture without actually removing it.

<= my boyz are very embarrassed by my newbishness.

You can absolutely paint over it with no problems. Make sure to prime first, as always.

If you want to get rid of the excess and achieve a cleaner look, you can file it a bit or use some fine grit sandpaper. If you're just getting started, and are just worried about painting, though... not really worth the effort. Worst case you can make it look like blood or something.

Thank you! I was pretty worried that I really messed up. You just saved me a few extra grey hairs!

For future reference, you can paint over just about any material as long as you prime it first. Dried glue, greenstuff, rocks, sand, cardboard, metal, a squirrel, whatever. Though the squirrel might not sit still. Just don't aerosol spray primer on styrofoam if the occasion ever arises. That's about it for gotchas, so feel free to get creative with your orks if you ever get bored with the regular models. Lots of conversion/addon possibilities with them!

Superglue is generaly brittle, so you can easily snap it off.

plastic glue is a killer, it melts models irreversibly

 Evertras wrote:
Dried glue, greenstuff, rocks, sand, cardboard, metal, a squirrel, whatever. Though the squirrel might not sit still.

lol. That made me laugh,.

For future reference, don't use superglue on plastics since the bond isn't as strong and parts will easily snap off during cold weather. But you can use this to your advantage and scrape the glue out with a hobby knife.

I have to say, I've regretted every instance in which I've used plastic glue/cement. Superglue has its issues, but being able to snap it apart has saved me a ton of bitz over the years by allowing me to salvage them from doomed/back-listed projects.

For your specific glue-related woes, sounds like a good time to try out rust or blood effects depending on where it ended up

I still use plastic glue. It's just really bad, so it snaps apart like super glue. It's called "Citadel Extra Thin Plastic Glue." But seriously, plastic cement is always better on plastics, even if it's a doomed project. Especially with orks, because you can always make something something else.

I also think that either Super Clean or L.A.'s totally awesome removes superglue without damaging plastics, and they're normally paint strippers. If you're willing to re-glue this stuff instead of scraping it or filing it off, then you can try those.

I always use plastic glue nothing worse than having to spend 10 minutes between every round of a tournament making repairs.

If your light handed with the plastic glue you get a bond that won't randomly seperate but with a little steady pressure and the blade of a hobby knife will pop back apart.

Thank you all for the replies, I greatly appreciate knowing I didn't just waste a bunch of money, and killed a bunch of innocent shoota boyz in the bargain.

 Evertras wrote:
For future reference, you can paint over just about any material as long as you prime it first. Dried glue, greenstuff, rocks, sand, cardboard, metal, a squirrel, whatever. Though the squirrel might not sit still.

The squirrel might move, but I've got a good clamp for that.

A Q-tip and nail polish remover (ie Acetone) will also remove excess superglue.

I use superglue on all my plastic and metal models and I've never had an issue with it. I also use super glue when magnetizing my monstrous creatures. I use magnet to magnet n52 attachments and I've never had an issue with the super glue giving way.

 Evertras wrote:
For future reference, you can paint over just about any material as long as you prime it first. Dried glue, greenstuff, rocks, sand, cardboard, metal, a squirrel, whatever. Though the squirrel might not sit still.

You gonna paint some Happy Trees to go with that Squirrel there Bob?

Every day is a good day when you paint.

(just google it if you dont get it, looking for the autotune)

Those squirrels are in your brush, just waiting for you to let them out!

 GrimDork wrote:
Every day is a good day when you paint.

(just google it if you dont get it, looking for the autotune)

I've seriously had that song in my head all day.

For starters welcome to the hobby mate. Few tips.. I like others have an awful time with glue.. so I said stuff it and got the tamiya glue... best thing ever did lol.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-87003-Plastic-Cement-40ml-for-plastic-model-kit-glue-/130856482010?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item1e77a774da


yoyu can pretty much never put to much glue on.. unscrew wipe the tip against the pot alittle glue on :3 much cleaner aswell.. I hate using super glue :(

Thanks, guys! I'll try cleaning them up a little with nail polish remover. If I'm quick about it, and don't douse them, it shouldn't hurt the plastic. I appreciate the advice everyone gave!

nail polish remover is acetone.

plastic glue is acetone.

acetone melts plastic.

good luck.

I didn't want to start a new thread, but what about dissolving plastic cement/crazy glue? Any hope on that?

I just bought a couple unprimed assembled Valkries and want to convert them into Vendettas. The missile pods can easily be ripped off but what about the forward lascannon? And the canopy is glued down. I know I can paint over the canopy, but I would prefer to keep it clear and paint the pilots.

 Ailaros wrote:
nail polish remover is acetone.

plastic glue is acetone.

acetone melts plastic.

good luck.

MIND F**K

Different types of acetone surely- I don't stick things with glue, and it doesn't remove paint/nail polish very well

 Ailaros wrote:
nail polish remover is acetone.

plastic glue is acetone.

acetone melts plastic.

good luck.

Mind=blown

Why didn't I ever realize that?

Anyways, don't understand the ire for super glue. It holds together all but the heaviest models. Even then, pinning with super glue does the trick.

Also, if you glob your super glue and don't like the outcome, throw the model in heavy duty degreaser you find at walmart, it's usually purple in color. Eats super glue and strips paints pretty fast.

Plastic glue has a thickening agent put in it so that it doesn't run everywhere, but that's it. It's basically acetone and corn starch, while nail polish remover is acetone without said corn starch in it.

In any case, it's stupid. Plastic glue is for people who never want to do conversion work or to be able to sell their minis to anyone ever. Meanwhile, I've never found anything that superglue or superglue and greenstuff combined can't stick together and KEEP stuck together.

 Ailaros wrote:

In any case, it's stupid. Plastic glue is for people who never want to do conversion work or to be able to sell their minis to anyone ever.

I have to reckon you're wrong, because plenty of people do extensive conversions on a lot of minis, and they are held together very well with plastic glue. But I guess to each their own.

It mostly depends on the brand of glue you use, since Tamiya glues hold models together amazingly well.

 Ailaros wrote:
In any case, it's stupid. Plastic glue is for people who never want to do conversion work or to be able to sell their minis to anyone ever. Meanwhile, I've never found anything that superglue or superglue and greenstuff combined can't stick together and KEEP stuck together.

Really? It's "stupid"? Condescending much?

Plastic glue works well and has been used for many a year by many a skilled modeler. Personally I don't paint models crappily and then try to sell them for a fraction of their worth to people who will strip them, so that's not an issue for me. Plastic glue works awesome for conversions because often when converting you're left trying to join poorly fitting edges or parts which have been cut and trimmed and don't quite line up 100% anymore. You can apply a thin layer of plastic glue, wait a few seconds for it to melt the surfaces, and then press them together so the puddles of melted plastic get pressed together, filling what would have otherwise been a poor join.

I wouldn't recommend it to new hobbyists or without testing it carefully first, but the same method can be used to fill gaps on certain models. If you have a join that will create a gap that you don't want, put down a bit of extra glue, wait a few seconds for the surfaces to melt, press the parts together, melted plastic will ooze out and fill the gap, then when it's dry or partially dry, run a blade along it to clean the joint. It's not as good as properly filling a gap and it takes practice, but I used that method a lot when assembling my tyranids to quickly fill gaps that I couldn't be bothered coming back with greenstuff/putty to fill later.

I'm not going to say it's "better" than superglue, but it has it's place and it's what I've used since before I started collecting miniatures and was collecting model aircraft as an 8 year old. Like any tool, the key is correct usage.

 Deunstephe wrote:

 Ailaros wrote:

In any case, it's stupid. Plastic glue is for people who never want to do conversion work or to be able to sell their minis to anyone ever.

I have to reckon you're wrong, because plenty of people do extensive conversions on a lot of minis, and they are held together very well with plastic glue. But I guess to each their own.

It mostly depends on the brand of glue you use, since Tamiya glues hold models together amazingly well.

And flesh...it holds flesh together well...especially after your hobby knife goes into your thumb....

I've always been fine with superglue and GS, I have never found a reason to use plastic glue. It's too much of a pain and not forgiving.

As for using acetone to clean glue off of plastic models... yeah, terrible advice. Don't do that.

 KingmanHighborn wrote:

 Deunstephe wrote:

 Ailaros wrote:

In any case, it's stupid. Plastic glue is for people who never want to do conversion work or to be able to sell their minis to anyone ever.

I have to reckon you're wrong, because plenty of people do extensive conversions on a lot of minis, and they are held together very well with plastic glue. But I guess to each their own.

It mostly depends on the brand of glue you use, since Tamiya glues hold models together amazingly well.

And flesh...it holds flesh together well...especially after your hobby knife goes into your thumb....

Are you talking about the Tamiya plastic glue or superglue?

 nectarprime wrote:
I've always been fine with superglue and GS, I have never found a reason to use plastic glue. It's too much of a pain and not forgiving.

Superglue and GS on plastic models is more of a pain, since you have to drill your holes, mix your GS, and then put the superglue in it. Plastic glue, just put a dab on and press the parts together.

 GrimDork wrote:
I have to say, I've regretted every instance in which I've used plastic glue/cement. Superglue has its issues, but being able to snap it apart has saved me a ton of bitz over the years by allowing me to salvage them from doomed/back-listed projects.

For your specific glue-related woes, sounds like a good time to try out rust or blood effects depending on where it ended up

This^

I use plastic glue for some models that will remain as is forever, but I'm always thankful when I have to pull a torso apart that I used superglue that time.

 Ailaros wrote:
Plastic glue has a thickening agent put in it so that it doesn't run everywhere, but that's it. It's basically acetone and corn starch, while nail polish remover is acetone without said corn starch in it.

In any case, it's stupid. Plastic glue is for people who never want to do conversion work or to be able to sell their minis to anyone ever. Meanwhile, I've never found anything that superglue or superglue and greenstuff combined can't stick together and KEEP stuck together.

Oh man, this a million times over. I can't think of the amount of stuff I've thought about buying second hand, thinking I could clean it up and repaint it to fit my army, only to realize that it's PLASTIC glued, and then I just walk away at that point.

If the chances that you'll sell whatever it is you're working on are non-zero, don't use plastic glue.

 daedalus wrote:

 Ailaros wrote:
Plastic glue has a thickening agent put in it so that it doesn't run everywhere, but that's it. It's basically acetone and corn starch, while nail polish remover is acetone without said corn starch in it.

In any case, it's stupid. Plastic glue is for people who never want to do conversion work or to be able to sell their minis to anyone ever. Meanwhile, I've never found anything that superglue or superglue and greenstuff combined can't stick together and KEEP stuck together.

Oh man, this a million times over. I can't think of the amount of stuff I've thought about buying second hand, thinking I could clean it up and repaint it to fit my army, only to realize that it's PLASTIC glued, and then I just walk away at that point.

If the chances that you'll sell whatever it is you're working on are non-zero, don't use plastic glue.

I can't imagine people go in to buy $3-400 worth of models with the idea of selling them for $1-200 so someone can strip them and reassemble them

Maybe I'm just so used to plastic glue, but I can't think of any time I've "regretted" using it and I find it easier to work with as well (the fact it doesn't stick well to things that aren't plastic and can turn a poor join in to a good join can be exploited).

Usually once I've painted a model I have no intention of ruining my paintjob by pulling it apart.