Switch Theme:

Punisher  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Enginseer with a Wrench





Fayetteville N.C.

So here I go again with my next project, The Punisher/Conqueror variant. The model can be found on Armorman's thread, http://www.zealot.com/forum/showthread.php?t=170912 Scroll down and you should be able o find it. As you can make out from the schematics, there are various versions of this model. So far the work is going smooth and I finished the individual track links. The tracks were the most time consuming, so the model should go smoothly from here. See you soon with the work in progress photos.
[Thumb - Image1.jpg]

[Thumb - Image2.jpg]

[Thumb - Image3.jpg]


Strength and Honor
Silveroxide 
   
Made in us
Enginseer with a Wrench





Fayetteville N.C.

And the thread begins. one track skirt and sponson is finished. The majority of the parts are cut apart and most of the tabs are removed. One of the main problem with laminating larger parts, is that they have a tendency to warp. There are a few techniques to stop or reduce the warpage. If you use books, be sure that you place other books or heavy items on top of the cover. Some warpage will actually still move with a light book on top. If you place it between the pages, place wax paper between the parts and the pages or you will damage the part with ink or damage the page with glue. Enjoy and see you all next posting.
[Thumb - 001.jpg]

[Thumb - 002.jpg]

[Thumb - 003.jpg]

[Thumb - 004.jpg]

[Thumb - 005.jpg]

[Thumb - 006.jpg]

[Thumb - 007.jpg]

[Thumb - 008.jpg]

[Thumb - 009.jpg]


Strength and Honor
Silveroxide 
   
Made in us
Hurr! Ogryn Bone 'Ead!





Plano, Texas

With these templates, instead of laminating paper layers, would it work if the template was glued to a sheet of plasticard and then cut?

- Assembling first army.
Nowlan's IG Army in progress

Thin your paints, drill your gun barrels, remove all mold lines. The Emperor wills it.  
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block





My parts always seem to warp even when they dry under several textbooks. Do you have any idea if it could be from using a single layer of cardboard with regular copy paper, or from using school glue instead of regular white glue?

With these templates, instead of laminating paper layers, would it work if the template was glued to a sheet of plasticard and then cut?

It should work, as long as you can get the paper to really stick.

   
Made in us
Enginseer with a Wrench





Fayetteville N.C.

 Nowlan wrote:
With these templates, instead of laminating paper layers, would it work if the template was glued to a sheet of plasticard and then cut?


As Malik Drako mentioned, plasticard can be used. In fact, the models that I have posted here, can all be made with plasticard/styrene. Just cut out the parts without the tabs and transfer them to a sheet of styrene and it will work just fine. When I build my paper stock models, I laminate and treat the model as if it was styrene. The advantage with the cardstock, is that the glue ing is better and little waiting time for it to set. This would not be a problem with super glue but I tend to stay away from it and use Elmers white glue (not the washable school glue). I do not have my Rhino anymore, that I built with styrene but it came out just as good. as the plastic GW version.


here are some more updates on the build and they are self explanatory with the comments box. See next posting with more.
[Thumb - 010.jpg]

[Thumb - 011.jpg]

[Thumb - 012.jpg]

[Thumb - 013.jpg]

[Thumb - 014.jpg]

[Thumb - 015.jpg]

[Thumb - 016.jpg]

[Thumb - 017.jpg]

[Thumb - 018.jpg]

[Thumb - 019.jpg]


Strength and Honor
Silveroxide 
   
Made in us
Enginseer with a Wrench





Fayetteville N.C.

With this model, The embedded words are again self-explanatory. this track skirt is almost done. See you all next posting.
[Thumb - 020.jpg]

[Thumb - 021.jpg]

[Thumb - 022.jpg]

[Thumb - 023.jpg]

[Thumb - 024.jpg]

[Thumb - 025.jpg]

[Thumb - 026.jpg]

[Thumb - 027.jpg]

[Thumb - 028.jpg]


Strength and Honor
Silveroxide 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





I have a question about the paper you use for your projects. I have several of these templates I'm sure that I've downloaded from the same source as you Silveroxide. The thing that has been holding me back from trying this is the paper size that they are formatted for. The world standard "A" sizing is impossible to locate where I live. Do you resize the templates before you print them or print on legal paper or something else entirely? Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I would love to attempt a Space Marine flyer or two in paper. I used to build card models all the time when I was younger, these really take me back.
   
Made in us
Enginseer with a Wrench





Fayetteville N.C.

ephrael wrote:
I have a question about the paper you use for your projects. I have several of these templates I'm sure that I've downloaded from the same source as you Silveroxide. The thing that has been holding me back from trying this is the paper size that they are formatted for. The world standard "A" sizing is impossible to locate where I live. Do you resize the templates before you print them or print on legal paper or something else entirely? Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I would love to attempt a Space Marine flyer or two in paper. I used to build card models all the time when I was younger, these really take me back.


The templates come in a pdf format. I go to the edit and choose take a snapshot. I then transfer them to my paint program, in my case Paint Shop pro but Gimp and other graphics program work as well. They are designed for A-4 European paper size. When I print them out from my graphic program I do it on US standard sheets which is smaller than A-4. My models print out at a size slightly larger than the GW vehicles but within the tolerances. This punisher is slightly taller/higher than a Chimera in the hull size but it is the same in the width department.. For the cardstock that I use, it is about 240lbs weight which is twice the size from regular cardstock. Other substitutes that can be used are vanilla folders or cereal boxes. The templates also have the advantage, that they can be glued or traced on sheet styrene and you can make it out of plastic, but it will require extra internal supports to hold the sides up. The disavantage from my point of view,is that you may have to use super glue, but I would recommend Gorilla glue. I hope that this help some. Enjoy and see you around the forum.

Strength and Honor
Silveroxide 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Thanks Silveroxide, I'll give this a try. I have the good card stock to use I was just at a loss for the A-4 paper. The local Staples store employees just look at me in puzzlement when I ask for A-4 paper so I stopped asking and gave up. I was going to use spray adhesive to glue the paper templated to the card stock and build from there. I think that sheet styrene would be too fiddly to work with like this. You may as well buy the actual kit as build from scratch in plastic.
   
Made in us
Enginseer with a Wrench





Fayetteville N.C.

ephrael wrote:
Thanks Silveroxide, I'll give this a try. I have the good card stock to use I was just at a loss for the A-4 paper. The local Staples store employees just look at me in puzzlement when I ask for A-4 paper so I stopped asking and gave up. I was going to use spray adhesive to glue the paper templated to the card stock and build from there. I think that sheet styrene would be too fiddly to work with like this. You may as well buy the actual kit as build from scratch in plastic.



Actually, sheet styrene works well at this scale, it is the challenge that is worth it. hope to see your work soon.


More updates on the track skirt. Since I did the individual tracks, I had to come up with the template. I used the ones supplied in the plans and modified them into individual pads. The track section is also viable if used as a single strip and building up the pads that way. The color scheme for this one, is a brownish desert color. The hull sides are laminated heavy and the bottom, front and rear are laminated 1X with a channel to fit the sides into. The parts are cut apart and glued individually. I used an inside tab to connect the front and rear to the bottom of the hull. I did not post a build thread for the tracks but I will get back to that later. The bulkhead are necessary to give the hull strength. It is very sturdy and will hold up to constant use and handling. there is nothing flimsy on this model.
[Thumb - tracks.jpg]

[Thumb - 029.jpg]

[Thumb - 030.jpg]

[Thumb - 031.jpg]

[Thumb - 032.jpg]

[Thumb - 033.jpg]

[Thumb - 034.jpg]

[Thumb - 035.jpg]

[Thumb - 036.jpg]

[Thumb - 037.jpg]


Strength and Honor
Silveroxide 
   
Made in us
Enginseer with a Wrench





Fayetteville N.C.

More photo updates. The Punisher is almost done, I am considering the front plow at the moment. It is finished without it but then, it looks good with it also. In this sequence, I added some details not in the schematics. The frontal compartments, I had to strengthen due to that there was not enough stress support for the front. I would have a tendency to bow inwards. The inner bulkheads avoided this problem. The same is the case for the top turret deck. I laminated the deck so that the turret would sit comfortably on it and not cave in when handled. I make my models more sturdy, so that they can withstand the constant handling for table top gaming. There is some discrepancy as to the layout of the rear of the hull in the plans, so I went with the GW reference version. Stick around for another update coming soon. Enjoy and see you all around the forum.
[Thumb - 038.jpg]

[Thumb - 039.jpg]

[Thumb - 040.jpg]

[Thumb - 041.jpg]

[Thumb - 042.jpg]

[Thumb - 043.jpg]

[Thumb - 044.jpg]

[Thumb - 045.jpg]

[Thumb - 046.jpg]

[Thumb - 047.jpg]


Strength and Honor
Silveroxide 
   
Made in us
Enginseer with a Wrench





Fayetteville N.C.

The build continues with more updates. The bottom of the hull is embellished. It is not the same as the GW version but I decided to have some access panels and escape hatch. The long channel guides will serve as the attachment points for the plow. The last photo is where I am at the moment and contemplating the front plow. Enjoy and see you all next posting.
[Thumb - 048.jpg]

[Thumb - 049.jpg]

[Thumb - 050.jpg]

[Thumb - 055.jpg]

[Thumb - 056.jpg]

[Thumb - 057.jpg]

[Thumb - 058.jpg]

[Thumb - 059.jpg]

[Thumb - 060.jpg]

[Thumb - 077.jpg]


Strength and Honor
Silveroxide 
   
Made in gb
Member of a Lodge? I Can't Say





Aberdeenshire Scotland

Wow! Great job and amazing walkthough! Giving me some real ideas for my own scratchbuild!

looks great

As my father once said to me : You cant polish a turd... but you can roll it in glitter!
MY P&M BLOG:http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/543290.page#5900175



 
   
Made in us
Enginseer with a Wrench





Fayetteville N.C.

 MagosBiff90 wrote:
Wow! Great job and amazing walkthough! Giving me some real ideas for my own scratchbuild!

looks great


Thanks for looking in. The idea behind my threads, is to help the community build better models.


The Punisher is finished, now the only thing left, is to post the photos. Enjoy and see you all soon with more.
[Thumb - 061.jpg]

[Thumb - 062.jpg]

[Thumb - 063.jpg]

[Thumb - 064.jpg]

[Thumb - 065.jpg]

[Thumb - 066.jpg]

[Thumb - 067.jpg]

[Thumb - 068.jpg]

[Thumb - 069.jpg]

[Thumb - 070.jpg]


Strength and Honor
Silveroxide 
   
Made in gb
Member of a Lodge? I Can't Say





Aberdeenshire Scotland

Again, Love this approach.

Will definetly be using some of the techniques shown here for my own attempts!

Really nice tutorial also. Clear and concise!

Really like the dirty/work paint effect also, simple but effective.


As my father once said to me : You cant polish a turd... but you can roll it in glitter!
MY P&M BLOG:http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/543290.page#5900175



 
   
Made in us
Enginseer with a Wrench





Fayetteville N.C.

 MagosBiff90 wrote:
Again, Love this approach.

Will definetly be using some of the techniques shown here for my own attempts!

Really nice tutorial also. Clear and concise!

Really like the dirty/work paint effect also, simple but effective.



The ideas and techniques are there for the benefit of all. If there is something there that will help you, then the build thread was worth the posting.


The object of this thread is done, The next posting will be to finish off the build thread and then on to something else before I attack the UHU02 Viper. I added a few more details than on the plans and built the cannon totally different from the plans. In my version of the cannon build, it is a single cylinder and the details are added around the cylinder shape. In the plans, the parts are end glue by section and are not sturdy enough for constant handling. A solid cylinder, you can move around without being too careful that it will not come apart. I like the way the 50 Cal looking auto gun came out. I will have to make another one for the Baneblade. Still a few more photos and then another build in progress.
[Thumb - 071.jpg]

[Thumb - 072.jpg]

[Thumb - 073.jpg]

[Thumb - 074.jpg]

[Thumb - 075.jpg]

[Thumb - 076.jpg]

[Thumb - 077.jpg]

[Thumb - 078.jpg]

[Thumb - 079.jpg]

[Thumb - 080.jpg]


Strength and Honor
Silveroxide 
   
Made in us
Enginseer with a Wrench





Fayetteville N.C.


Here are the last photos of the Punisher. I could continue adding details, but I will hold it as is and get on to another subject. The next model will another 40K but it is not on the Armormans, list of models. It is a request from another designer here (Malik Drako) and it is to be a Beta build. No instructions but at least I have ample reference photos for it. By the way, it will be an enemy of the Imperium. Enjoy and I hope that you all have enjoyed the build thread. Thanks to Patoroch for his outstanding work and in designing it. I have taken some liberties in the build but over all, it is true to his design.
[Thumb - 081.jpg]

[Thumb - 082.jpg]

[Thumb - 083.jpg]

[Thumb - 084.jpg]


Strength and Honor
Silveroxide 
   
 
Forum Index » Dakka P&M Blogs
Go to: