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Anybody have any tips to achieve this? I'm talking about lines which cross multiple panel sections on the chassis. I tried painter's tape on a demo section and had a lot of trouble with paint bleeding. I'm painting blue stripes on yellow, so the leaking is a pain to fix.

 Thokt wrote:
Anybody have any tips to achieve this? I'm talking about lines which cross multiple panel sections on the chassis. I tried painter's tape on a demo section and had a lot of trouble with paint bleeding. I'm painting blue stripes on yellow, so the leaking is a pain to fix.

Painter's tape, and don't dilute your paint quite as much? Or, painter's tape and spray paint. As long as you hold back reasonably far, you should be OK.

Howdy

Im doing iron warriors hazard stripes, and finding good results from Tamiya hobby tape: http://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/feature.php?article-id=222

its better than house painters tape. But you still get some bleed, so its a careful eye and effort in touching up.

If you look at this pic:
you can see some small bleed on the tank, and some awful bleed on the shoulder pad (its difficult on tight corners.

Best of luck

unless its on a perfect flat surface you will always have a little bleed. But unless you are doing crazy thin strips, its not that hard to touch up afterwords.

If you have an airbrush you could spray through a slit of plasticard held at the model. It wouldnt be 100% crisp looking but only because it would have a faint "fade" between colors that'll probably hardly be noticed. However on slants that might be hard to do lol

I'm just trying to do the same thing, so I'm very interested in this, but also got something to share.


http://stephanius40k.blogspot.com/2013/09/masking-practice.html

Tape provides quick and easy straight lines, but needs to be pushed into the surface to follow it well enough and even then it won't be exact. Still, I found that for jetbikes it does the job.

Tamiya tape is very good, but I used up some other tape here. I used (red) airbrush masking tape for precise lines and blue tape for area coverage.
Both are supposed to release easily, which is important. Even though I used the right tape, I had a little bit of paint pulled up on one model when peeling.
I'm guessing the paint wasn't really dry yet when I applied the tape or I pressed it down to hard trying to avoid leaks.

Let the paint you stick between the tape dry really well. You don't want a bit of paint to stick to the edge of the tape and then be spilled when you lift the tape before it is dry.

I've used liquid mask for gems in my test, but RC car guys use it as area coverage and then cut out the shapes they want with an exacto knife and peel the bit they want to paint.
That technique might be transferable to our use and of course the shape of the surface doesn't matter with liquid mask.

Thanks, all excellent advice. Very encouraging!