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I have a collection of Citadel paints, but I'm considering buying a few that I'll need for all the lord of the rings items I've just got and I'm hearing a lot of good things about vallejo paints and I see that I can get them pretty well priced from wayland games...

Just wondering if I were to use both citadel and vallejo on one model would they look obviously different?

Purely because I started out with some Revell aqua colours and I believe there is an obvious texture difference, and the paints didn't mix together very well.


Anyone have any experience on this?

Thanks!

Well, I'll use as many as 4 different paint brands on a single mini depending on the colors I want. There can be a difference in surface finish, but that should go away if you clear coat them.

Paint with whatever you feel like, I mix paint brands all the time. The only hitch you might have is if you switch brands midway through a squad or something and one group of guys has a different shade of shirt than the other group.

I don't have anything to say on this subject but "yes".

No, they explode.

Seriously, as long as they're acrylic, you're fine.

I use three, so yes you can.

Yes you can, most painters will use multiple types to get the effects that they are after.

I would suggest that you stick to Hobby paints though. Things like Citadel, Vallejo, Army painter, etc.

GW, Reaper, Vallejo , Testors, Model Masters all wind up on my models ..along with some railroad oils ..(for certain effects)


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oh and Army painter as well

For my models I use vallejo, citadel and P3.

They work quite well together.

Acrylic paints? Yes.

I use:
vallejo model color, vallejo game color, vallejo model air, minitire, craft paint, citidel old paints, citadel new paints, reaper masters, testors aztek airbrush and golden airbrush paints.

A good matte finish at the end ties the final model together nicely ...
(the aztek and badger are a bit glossy).

Ive used 6 different brands of paint on a mini once and it didnt burst into flames so I think you are alright. That is assuming they are the same medium, but even then you can mix oil and acrylic just wait for the coat to dry before using the other.

Finecast models melt and form air bubble like holes in them if you paint them with paints from other manufacturers! The psychic ones do this BEFORE the paint ever touches them!

(couldnt resist)

I've got several brands of paint, and they all work fine. Sometimes certain brands won't mix together too well for color blending due to the various fillers and carriers used in some brands. But if used seperately, one layer of dried paint over another is never any issue(as long as they arent thick gloppy messes).

You might find that the scale modeling paint like Revell and Testors is quite different than the paints for figures and miniatures- as the paint for minis is a bit thicker since its designed to take more handling for tabletop wear and tear. And scale models generally are not- so thier paints arent quite as durable- thus they are made different and will mix different if you combine them with most gaming type paints

That doesnt mean they cannot work- jsut means you might have to do some adjusting or extra stirring- and occasionally accept defeat

I use all kinds of different paints. I like Citadel paints, but for some work they just get prohibitively expensive. I use up to 6 different brands in a single model, with no issues. Although the amount of work certainly varies, (since the GW one has better opacity) the marines I painted using ProArt Emerald Green (generic Walmart acrylic paint) are indistinguishable from the ones that got Snot Green as the primary color.

Absolutely not. It is highly dangerous. Mixing GW paint with any others is known to be dangerous, it will light on fire if mixed with army painter, and tends to explode if mixed with Vallejo. Mixing with reaper paints opens portals to the dimension of pain and mixing with p3 causes the fabric of space and time to unravel locally before collapsing into a singularity.

I've found that only a few citadel paints are good... There are not enough colors, and they are all.... Well, bright. It's fine if you like vibrant minis, though I'm starting to contract a preference for colors that don't look like they belong in a candy shop. I've been switching out slowly, and found the metallics from other brands less garish, and I've also found the inks immensely helpful given hat GW only has the washes. The lack of consistency of the paint over a protracted period of time has also contributed to this low opinion--I don't like having to work out replacement colors etc--though I've stuck to a few GW colors because I'm no sure how to replace them....

I use Vallejo and gw colours.

Your model will melt due to a chemical reaction that GW placed in their paints. Any paint that is non GW mixed with GW will cause a highly toxic gas, as well as high heat which melts the model (even pewter!)

Seriously though, yes, you can.

I love the amount of sarcasm this has got haha.

But thanks for letting me know, I was mainly worried about the finished look being different with different brands was all, incase one brand ended up looking more matt than another sort of thing.


But thanks, I'll be adding more brands to my collection then!

I R Beci wrote:
I love the amount of sarcasm this has got haha.

But thanks for letting me know, I was mainly worried about the finished look being different with different brands was all, incase one brand ended up looking more matt than another sort of thing.


But thanks, I'll be adding more brands to my collection then!

One brand will most definatly be more matte, or more glossy than another brand. And each will have its own 'in the pot' thickness, and colour intensity.

The sheen level can (and probably should) be unified once youve finished painting with spray varnish. Glossy lacquer first, for protectiveness, and then matte or satin to suit tastes

GW do a 'Purity Seal' Spray, that is a satin finish for this, but theyre not the be all and end all (or even the best) out there. Testors Dullcote seems to get amazing amounts of praise.

the other thing to consider is how the paints mix. You'd think mixing red+yellow+white would get you a bright orange. No. You get a skin tone, and the amount of white you add determines how light the skin is...... the dye lots that go in react differently, and sometimes certain brands will behave predictably, others may get you bizarre things.

 poda_t wrote:
the other thing to consider is how the paints mix. You'd think mixing red+yellow+white would get you a bright orange. No. You get a skin tone, and the amount of white you add determines how light the skin is...... the dye lots that go in react differently, and sometimes certain brands will behave predictably, others may get you bizarre things.

Ahh yes this is the kind of information I need, I guess it's just down to experimenting then? thanks!


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HairySticks wrote:


One brand will most definatly be more matte, or more glossy than another brand. And each will have its own 'in the pot' thickness, and colour intensity.

The sheen level can (and probably should) be unified once youve finished painting with spray varnish. Glossy lacquer first, for protectiveness, and then matte or satin to suit tastes

GW do a 'Purity Seal' Spray, that is a satin finish for this, but theyre not the be all and end all (or even the best) out there. Testors Dullcote seems to get amazing amounts of praise.

I have heard of people spraying things onto figures, but I always assumed it would add a shine, but if there are ones that are a bit more matt that sounds good!
Once I get some more brands I'll check them out thanks for the info

I R Beci wrote:
Anyone have any experience on this?

I don't personally, but a friend of mine tried to use 4 different brands on a model one time. The explosion killed him quickly so at least he didn't suffer. To be safe only use GW paints and GW brushes and GW brand water to thin your paints. You'll be glad you did.