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Title kinda says it all. I've llooked in a few craft stores wwithout success. WWhere do you all get your oil washes from? Either online or in store, and brand name.

Thank

I use "Nuln oil" wash from GW, works great!

If your searching for 'oil washes' thats the problem, its Oil Paints and mineral spirits mixed by yourself.

USA;
http://www.dickblick.com/categories/oilpainting/

UK;
http://www.artsupplies.co.uk/cat-oil-paints-&-mediums.htm

Any artists supply store worth its salt should have atleast one line of oil paints.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/art-supplies/art-paints-mediums/?subcat=Oil%20Paints

hobby lobby do them too.

Yeah, you have to make them yourself. Oil paint of just about any variety + mineral spirits. Just add a bit of mineral spirits and mix them up. Good ventilation highly recommended, but it's super easy to do.

Does anyone premix oil washes in to an empty pot? I've just started using oil washes and it's kind of annoying have to mix a fresh batch every time I want to do a mini.

Can you just mix up a big batch of it and put it in a bottle?

I notice most youtubers just mix it on the spot, just wondering if there's a reason for doing that.

I would imagine that premixing would work, but will certainly need a good shake up each use (just like any other kind of paint does really)

I couldnt say if having it sit there for x days/weeks/months depending how much you make up will have an adverse effect on the paint or not. Its not something I have experience with to say

Is mixing it really that much of a pain? It seems pretty straight forward, I do kind of exactly the same task when using just about any paints - put some on the pallete and thin it to suit the job at hand. Even if I prethinned all my paints, theyd only be the right viscosity for one particular kind of job... having it prethinned makes it unsuitable for anything needing the paint to have some body to it.

I dunno, maybe once I get used to it it'll be less of a hassle, I just find it annoying because it takes me a few minutes each time to get the right consistency and I end up mixing enough to do about 10 models even if I'm only doing 1 model, lol. I think if a paint is close to the right consistency to begin with, it takes less effort to thin it to what you want. Also it's less harsh on the brush you're mixing with.

I guess also because I have a pot of water permanently on my desk, I don't have a pot of mineral spirits the whole time and the stuff stinks to high heaven so I like to minimise my exposure, lol.

I used to do the same with airbrush paiunt; by the time I had it thinned enough to spray nicely, there was 10times more than I needed
Much better at it now after lots of practise with it and trying different thinners and brands of paint etc.

So with time, the more you do it, the better you will get at judging the amount to mix

Chaning brands of paint will change the pigment density and how much mineral spirit gives the right intensity of colours.
Atleast a tube of oil paint is going to last a very long time for what we use them for. Plenty of paint for trial and error.

As for the brush, I use an old basically ruined one for mixing and moving paint around anyway,... Never ever use your high quality brushes for mixing and thinning the paints :/ thats just asking for paint in the ferrule.

http://migproductions.com/2010/11/washes-and-filters/

MiG makes a line of oil washes ready for use out of the bottle. I use the brown wash for the lining and rivets on my Death Guard

save yourself the trouble and skip oil washes unless you're looking for a really dirty ugly look.
the spirits has no ability to bind the oil pigments into a properly mixed solution. what happens is the pigment settles to the bottom of the spirits as it dries and creates ugly looking effects.
sort of like thinning acrylic with too much water. you need binder.

quickshade will work as a proper binder. but overall acrylic washes are better, and dry a lot faster too.

kb305 wrote:
save yourself the trouble and skip oil washes unless you're looking for a really dirty ugly look.
the spirits has no ability to bind the oil pigments into a properly mixed solution. what happens is the pigment settles to the bottom of the spirits as it dries and creates ugly looking effects.
sort of like thinning acrylic with too much water. you need binder.

quickshade will work as a proper binder. but overall acrylic washes are better, and dry a lot faster too.

I don't have a lot of experience with oil washes, but what you describe is not my experience at all. The first batch of oil wash I made had some chunky pigment which didn't come out well, but every batch I've made since came out fine.

The idea with an oil wash is that you can manipulate it well after it's applied. Acrylic washes work well on heavily textured surface (like fur) but when you have large open areas that aren't textured (like Space Marine armour) the acrylic wash will pool in bad areas and smudge in bad areas.

An oil wash will do the same, the difference is that the oil wash can actually be cleaned up after you apply it, so you can get rid of unsightly blotches and lines and smoothly blend it from the crevice to the panel. An acrylic wash you apply and before you even finish the brush stroke it's started to dry and you can't clean it up.

BuyPainted has some really good examples of oil washing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PL4sEryds4XKUQALMW2TFg_6C-3DFeFMfB&feature=player_detailpage&v=iWCGNhdAmo0#t=279

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

kb305 wrote:
save yourself the trouble and skip oil washes unless you're looking for a really dirty ugly look.
the spirits has no ability to bind the oil pigments into a properly mixed solution. what happens is the pigment settles to the bottom of the spirits as it dries and creates ugly looking effects.
sort of like thinning acrylic with too much water. you need binder.

quickshade will work as a proper binder. but overall acrylic washes are better, and dry a lot faster too.

I don't have a lot of experience with oil washes, but what you describe is not my experience at all. The first batch of oil wash I made had some chunky pigment which didn't come out well, but every batch I've made since came out fine.

The idea with an oil wash is that you can manipulate it well after it's applied. Acrylic washes work well on heavily textured surface (like fur) but when you have large open areas that aren't textured (like Space Marine armour) the acrylic wash will pool in bad areas and smudge in bad areas.

An oil wash will do the same, the difference is that the oil wash can actually be cleaned up after you apply it, so you can get rid of unsightly blotches and lines and smoothly blend it from the crevice to the panel. An acrylic wash you apply and before you even finish the brush stroke it's started to dry and you can't clean it up.

BuyPainted has some really good examples of oil washing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PL4sEryds4XKUQALMW2TFg_6C-3DFeFMfB&feature=player_detailpage&v=iWCGNhdAmo0#t=279

you can clean up poorly done acrylic wash too by painting/airbrushing out the flaws. except the acrylic washes i mix now are so good and transparent that I don't need to, even on smooth surfaces. (god bless army painter inks)

after you put on an oil wash you cant touch it for 12-24 hours usually or longer. and you cant put any more acrylic onto that model until you seal it with varnish. (annoying)

"An acrylic wash you apply and before you even finish the brush stroke it's started to dry and you can't clean it up."

always put some kind of drying retarder into your acrylic wash. It can make a massive difference.

Tip for keeping mixed colors is to save and use the GW pots for that. I believe you can also get similar paint pots from amazon to keep mixed paint in.
A good thing to complement this with is a name or code on the pot and a note about the mix in a paint book for future reference.

elaps wrote:
Tip for keeping mixed colors is to save and use the GW pots for that. I believe you can also get similar paint pots from amazon to keep mixed paint in.
A good thing to complement this with is a name or code on the pot and a note about the mix in a paint book for future reference.

GW pots are so terrible I don't see me reusing them for a mixed colour that I put effort in to getting right.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

kb305 wrote:

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

kb305 wrote:
save yourself the trouble and skip oil washes unless you're looking for a really dirty ugly look.
the spirits has no ability to bind the oil pigments into a properly mixed solution. what happens is the pigment settles to the bottom of the spirits as it dries and creates ugly looking effects.
sort of like thinning acrylic with too much water. you need binder.

quickshade will work as a proper binder. but overall acrylic washes are better, and dry a lot faster too.

I don't have a lot of experience with oil washes, but what you describe is not my experience at all. The first batch of oil wash I made had some chunky pigment which didn't come out well, but every batch I've made since came out fine.

The idea with an oil wash is that you can manipulate it well after it's applied. Acrylic washes work well on heavily textured surface (like fur) but when you have large open areas that aren't textured (like Space Marine armour) the acrylic wash will pool in bad areas and smudge in bad areas.

An oil wash will do the same, the difference is that the oil wash can actually be cleaned up after you apply it, so you can get rid of unsightly blotches and lines and smoothly blend it from the crevice to the panel. An acrylic wash you apply and before you even finish the brush stroke it's started to dry and you can't clean it up.

BuyPainted has some really good examples of oil washing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PL4sEryds4XKUQALMW2TFg_6C-3DFeFMfB&feature=player_detailpage&v=iWCGNhdAmo0#t=279

you can clean up poorly done acrylic wash too by painting/airbrushing out the flaws. except the acrylic washes i mix now are so good and transparent that I don't need to, even on smooth surfaces. (god bless army painter inks)

after you put on an oil wash you cant touch it for 12-24 hours usually or longer. and you cant put any more acrylic onto that model until you seal it with varnish. (annoying)

"An acrylic wash you apply and before you even finish the brush stroke it's started to dry and you can't clean it up."

always put some kind of drying retarder into your acrylic wash. It can make a massive difference.

Painting/airbrushing out flaws kind of defies the point if you just spent ages airbrushing nice smooth transitions in to the model in the first place.

I don't really see the drying time and varnishing as a huge problem, as the oil wash is pretty much going to be your last step anyway, and it's good to put a varnish on the model when you're done anyway, sooo, might as well oil wash it, model is done, varnish it the next day

I will admit I'm using oil washes primarily because that's what I've seen some very good painters using and so far I've had really good success with it. I use acrylic washes when I just want to slap it on quickly to a model that doesn't already have a lot of nice shading. For models I'm airbrushing where I spend a lot of time getting nice transitions and simply want to "black line" the crevices, I use an oil wash as I can blend the oil wash in to match the airbrush blend without adversely affecting the airbrushed blending.

I used Daler-rowny graduate paints and W&N white spirit.

The MiG washes dry pretty quickly. I can put that down and start reworking it after a few minutes.

kb305 wrote:

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

kb305 wrote:
save yourself the trouble and skip oil washes unless you're looking for a really dirty ugly look.
the spirits has no ability to bind the oil pigments into a properly mixed solution. what happens is the pigment settles to the bottom of the spirits as it dries and creates ugly looking effects.
sort of like thinning acrylic with too much water. you need binder.

quickshade will work as a proper binder. but overall acrylic washes are better, and dry a lot faster too.

I don't have a lot of experience with oil washes, but what you describe is not my experience at all. The first batch of oil wash I made had some chunky pigment which didn't come out well, but every batch I've made since came out fine.

The idea with an oil wash is that you can manipulate it well after it's applied. Acrylic washes work well on heavily textured surface (like fur) but when you have large open areas that aren't textured (like Space Marine armour) the acrylic wash will pool in bad areas and smudge in bad areas.

An oil wash will do the same, the difference is that the oil wash can actually be cleaned up after you apply it, so you can get rid of unsightly blotches and lines and smoothly blend it from the crevice to the panel. An acrylic wash you apply and before you even finish the brush stroke it's started to dry and you can't clean it up.

BuyPainted has some really good examples of oil washing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PL4sEryds4XKUQALMW2TFg_6C-3DFeFMfB&feature=player_detailpage&v=iWCGNhdAmo0#t=279

you can clean up poorly done acrylic wash too by painting/airbrushing out the flaws. except the acrylic washes i mix now are so good and transparent that I don't need to, even on smooth surfaces. (god bless army painter inks)

after you put on an oil wash you cant touch it for 12-24 hours usually or longer. and you cant put any more acrylic onto that model until you seal it with varnish. (annoying)

"An acrylic wash you apply and before you even finish the brush stroke it's started to dry and you can't clean it up."

always put some kind of drying retarder into your acrylic wash. It can make a massive difference.

I am sorry kb305, but pretty much all of your assumptions are wrong, I have used oils for many, many years in many ways, on dozens of models, when used properly, they are some of the best medium we have for achieving affects and painting miniatures. You can put acrylic over oil without a sealer, spirits and pigment separate when your ratio's are off, I would suggest experimenting with them a bit more and learning about them before writing them off. Army painter inks are not better than oils, and vise-versa, they have different uses.

To the OP, the Mig stuff, which I believe is now made by Vallejo is actually enamel paint, but enamel's behave very similar to oils when combined with Orderless Mineral Spirits. Give them a try they are very easy to use and can produce some great results. I use them often, and only really mix my own washes anymore when I have specific colors I am looking for.

A.