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hey guys, just wanted to post this for you guys to laugh at, I tried painting a luna wolf and failed.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't Luna Wolves white?

Did you try doing white over a black undercoat? That's usually the harder way to paint white.

There's plenty of tutorials on how to paint white. One of the first ones that came up after a google was this...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QswaHncwIkM

His method is a bit slow IMO, because you have to paint the Celestra Grey twice (once as a base and again to clean up). If you painted the Nuln Oil directly in to the crevices instead of just coating the entire model, you'd still want to clean up the Celestra Grey, but it wouldn't take nearly as long to do.

AllSeeingSkink wrote:
Did you try doing white over a black undercoat? That's usually the harder way to paint white.

There's plenty of tutorials on how to paint white. One of the first ones that came up after a google was this...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QswaHncwIkM

His method is a bit slow IMO, because you have to paint the Celestra Grey twice (once as a base and again to clean up). If you painted the Nuln Oil directly in to the crevices instead of just coating the entire model, you'd still want to clean up the Celestra Grey, but it wouldn't take nearly as long to do.

thanks skink, but after a few more (about seven) attempts I have perfected my method, black undercoat, 2-1 ceramite white to water, repeat until nice and white, nuln oil into crevices, clean edges of crevices with ceramite white, eyes temple guard blue, wash drakenhoff nightshade.
what colour do you guys think I should do the edgings, silver gold or bronze? at the moment im liking gold.

 Brother Payne wrote:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't Luna Wolves white?

I swear to God when I looked at this thread it was an image of a navy blue/almost black terminator w gold trim...

 Brother Payne wrote:

 Brother Payne wrote:
Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't Luna Wolves white?

I swear to God when I looked at this thread it was an image of a navy blue/almost black terminator w gold trim...

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/578881.page

Yeah that...

 Brother Payne wrote:
Yeah that...

Why make life hard for yourself? If you are going for a white armour, prime white, then do a wash to hit the recesses in black - use a clean wet brush to clear most of the wash off the plates and a tissue/larger second brush to wick off the excess.

 SilverMK2 wrote:
Why make life hard for yourself? If you are going for a white armour, prime white, then do a wash to hit the recesses in black - use a clean wet brush to clear most of the wash off the plates and a tissue/larger second brush to wick off the excess.

when ever I prime white it comes out "dusty" looking. with tiny grains of paint like sand all over it.

 SilverMK2 wrote:
Why make life hard for yourself? If you are going for a white armour, prime white, then do a wash to hit the recesses in black - use a clean wet brush to clear most of the wash off the plates and a tissue/larger second brush to wick off the excess.

Make sure you put some drying retarder in first otherwise you'll just make a mess, lol.

 the shrouded lord wrote:

 SilverMK2 wrote:
Why make life hard for yourself? If you are going for a white armour, prime white, then do a wash to hit the recesses in black - use a clean wet brush to clear most of the wash off the plates and a tissue/larger second brush to wick off the excess.

when ever I prime white it comes out "dusty" looking. with tiny grains of paint like sand all over it.

Get some thinner paint.

 the shrouded lord wrote:

 SilverMK2 wrote:
Why make life hard for yourself? If you are going for a white armour, prime white, then do a wash to hit the recesses in black - use a clean wet brush to clear most of the wash off the plates and a tissue/larger second brush to wick off the excess.

when ever I prime white it comes out "dusty" looking. with tiny grains of paint like sand all over it.

White can sometimes be a pain. You need to really shake the can before hand and make sure you are spraying really thin layers from the correct distance.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

 SilverMK2 wrote:
Why make life hard for yourself? If you are going for a white armour, prime white, then do a wash to hit the recesses in black - use a clean wet brush to clear most of the wash off the plates and a tissue/larger second brush to wick off the excess.

Make sure you put some drying retarder in first otherwise you'll just make a mess, lol.

I just water down the initial wash and have had no problems.

If white primer is a problem use grey. You can get some very light ones from various manufacturers. Then the layers of ceramite white will be easier. Instead of putting a black wash into the recesses how about a grey one? It will be a softer contrast depending on how dark you go and again there are plenty of washes out there from a range of companies that would suit. Also, thin your paints. Detail on the helmet is starting to be obscured.

I'd also recommend using a grey undercoat - it will make life so much easier for you! Wash straight over the undercoat then get your white on, leaving the grey in the shadows. Your model doesn't look bad but instead of building up multiple coats of white if you can spend that time being a little more careful with the paint so you have cleaner lines and more definition I think you'd have a really nice paint job.

 SilverMK2 wrote:
Automatically Appended Next Post:

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

 SilverMK2 wrote:
Why make life hard for yourself? If you are going for a white armour, prime white, then do a wash to hit the recesses in black - use a clean wet brush to clear most of the wash off the plates and a tissue/larger second brush to wick off the excess.

Make sure you put some drying retarder in first otherwise you'll just make a mess, lol.

I just water down the initial wash and have had no problems.

Hmm, everytime I've tried cleaning up acrylic (that didn't have slow drying thinner or drying retarder in it) I find it just makes a mess because it dries to fast and stains the model as you try and clean it up.

Now if you were using an oil or enamel wash, that lets you clean it up without leaving any stains and lets you blend it in really nicely. But then you aren't using water anymore.

I paint almost exclusively with washes (as i am lazy, plus they are great for subdued natural colours). You can certainly get some watermark like deposits if you are not careful applying washes and then washing the wash, as it were. That is one of the reasons I tend to use wash that has been further diluted and/or work on a smaller area at a time.

Acrylic washes (especially gws older washes - not used any of the new ones so cant comment on them) dont dry THAT quickly.

White can be trouble to make.


You can not get more bright then white. This means for highlighting you are poluting the rest of your model to make the highlights the brightest colour on your model.

First of do not prime it black. The white will let some light thorugh to the black where it get's saturated. Undercoat it by white spray or by white hand if you are having problems.

If I where you I would paint "palid wych flesh" all over that white undercoat. Wash that palid wych flesh with black in the resesses (the ckinks in your armour) Other washes can also be used if you want other colours as white and black makes for very little contrast. You could use a very thinned down skink blue for a first wash before the black wash.

Then you paint the layer white on top of the washed "pallid wych flesh" This will let you add more dept to it. Your model is not bad, you are very close to a good result.