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Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





G'day all,

I want to make some magnetic movement bases. Well, the models are magnetic, so I just need a sheet metal movement tray.

Question is, how do you cut sheet metal neatly at home, and what thickness?

At work I used to cut sheet metal to a rough size using a big guillotine, then use a linishing belt and grinding wheel to finish it off. I have neither of those things at home and I don't really want to buy them as I have no room in the garage. Also laser cutting was nice, but not really practical for just cutting a few movement trays.

Any suggestions?
   
Made in au
[MOD]
Making Stuff






Under the couch

Tin snips would be the cheapest option...

 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







If you have a dremel, then the grinding wheels should be fine for thin metal sheet, but you might not get a very straight line.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
Colonel





This Is Where the Fish Lives

Look for straight cut snips, the handles are usually yellow. Left or right cut snips will work, but it's harder to cut straight with them and often leaves the cut pretty jagged.

There are other snips designed for cutting flat sheet metal, they look like big scissors and have longer cutting blades than standard "aviation" snips.

 d-usa wrote:
"When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
 
   
Made in gb
Pious Warrior Priest




UK

A good saw will serve you better, snips will bend the metal.
   
Made in gb
Rotting Sorcerer of Nurgle





Portsmouth UK

Yeah I cut a steel sheet with tin snips & it took me ages to get it roughly flat again - had to use a vice.
I recommend find some flexible metal sheet such as this:
http://www.first4magnets.com/a4-sheet-magnets-c81/flexible-a4-magnetic-sheet-with-3m-self-adhesive-297-x-210-x-0-85mm-p3480
It's what I used in the end for my other tray & was so easy to cut then stick on to the tray.

Check out my gallery here
Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!! 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Snips are about the easiest way...glue it down quick though, lest you loose a finger. The edge will be very sharp.

You might call up a sheet metal shop. A break would make short order of it, and you will have a much cleaner cut. Most that I have dealt with are willing to do that for pretty cheap.
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





 bubber wrote:
Yeah I cut a steel sheet with tin snips & it took me ages to get it roughly flat again - had to use a vice.
I recommend find some flexible metal sheet such as this:
http://www.first4magnets.com/a4-sheet-magnets-c81/flexible-a4-magnetic-sheet-with-3m-self-adhesive-297-x-210-x-0-85mm-p3480
It's what I used in the end for my other tray & was so easy to cut then stick on to the tray.
How strong is that? I've always found that rare earth magnets on a flexible magnetic sheets are quite weak compared to rare earth magnets against a steel sheet.
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

Use a hacksaw and clamp the piece down to a solid surface (thin metal will flex and chatter like crazy, otherwise) if you're worried about the material curling. Personally, I'd just use snips and clean up/straighten out the edges, as necessary, but I'm also very comfortable working sheet metal with hammer and files, which not everyone is. Really isn't particularly difficult, but it is an additional step.

As for thickness, it doesn't take much to attract a magnet. 28g galvanized steel (ducting or roof flashing) should be more than sufficient for most trays. I wouldn't try lifting metal cavalry by the corner of the tray, of course, but it won't flex under a block of 20 plastic troops, especially if you add a stiff rim or laminate it over HIPS or MDF.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in gb
Rotting Sorcerer of Nurgle





Portsmouth UK

AllSeeingSkink wrote:
 bubber wrote:
Yeah I cut a steel sheet with tin snips & it took me ages to get it roughly flat again - had to use a vice.
I recommend find some flexible metal sheet such as this:
http://www.first4magnets.com/a4-sheet-magnets-c81/flexible-a4-magnetic-sheet-with-3m-self-adhesive-297-x-210-x-0-85mm-p3480
It's what I used in the end for my other tray & was so easy to cut then stick on to the tray.
How strong is that? I've always found that rare earth magnets on a flexible magnetic sheets are quite weak compared to rare earth magnets against a steel sheet.


it's been strong enough for me & i'm not even using rare earth on the models just magnetic tap cut to fit (http://www.first4magnets.com/tape-strip-magnets-c85/12-7mm-wide-x-1-5mm-thick-magnetic-tape-with-premium-self-adhesive-p3525 - like this but thicker). It's not as if you're going to play Frisbee with it

Check out my gallery here
Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!! 
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





Well I would like to be able to use it for transportation, so the flexible sheet probably doesn't have enough strength to it.
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






How think of a sheet?

If all else fails you could take a very thin piece and glue it to a substrate like plasticard or MDF to give it the rigidity.


They also make benchtop breaks but wouldn't think it would be practical unless you where made of money or where making these en-mass.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/02/21 21:21:25


 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in gb
Thunderhawk Pilot Dropping From Orbit





Scotland

I used an electric saw with a debris blade on it to do mine. O laid it on a piece of scrap wood to stop it bending and it worked a treat. I used a compound angle mitre saw, but a jigsaw would work fine too.

Also, I did a tutorial here if you are interested!

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/502033.page#5198611

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/02/21 22:00:56


   
Made in gb
Rotting Sorcerer of Nurgle





Portsmouth UK

For transport I put my models in a steel tool box I picked up.

Check out my gallery here
Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!! 
   
 
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