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Just got back into the hobby, bought some kits, glue, the works. And now my glue is not leaving the bottle. I've unscrewed everything. Popped a hole on both ends of the nozzle and I am not getting gak. Does anyone have recommendations for a plastic glue because I have to say Army Painter has been nothing but $3.50 of disappointment.

Assuming you have a metal needle you could hold a lighter/match underneath, should burn out the glue residue
I've had to do this several times for my Revell glue, I'd hold it at an angle, the glue should burn out in an upwards direction... I then cool it, flip the needle over and repeat

Testors for plastic, Gorilla Glue superglue for metal. All I use.

Revell for me every day of the week (unless I'm using my Humbrol plastic weld that is!).
I mainly use the weld for vehicles btw.

Testors Model Master with the metal tip.

When you are not using the bottle, keep it in an upside down position to avoid that it sets in the nozzle.

I was actually considering army painter. Glad I didn't.

Loctite is pretty freaking good, and you can buy it anywhere. I would stay away from products with "Krazy" anywhere on them. They aren't horrible, but they aren't great either. I used to put models together with brush applicated krazy glue, and they all fell apart after a while. This is pretty great if you like to rip pieces off models and re-use them, but not good for transportation and long term storage.

GW plastic glue was always good, and had the advantage of not getting your fingers stuck to everything. I imagine their new stuff (thin) is pretty good.

I have some narrow gauge electrical wire that fits through the metal nozzle of my Revell glue. The residue is never that strongly bonded to the metal so it pops out with ease and avoids the possbility of burned fingers from the lighter method

 Captain Fantastic wrote:


GW plastic glue was always good, and had the advantage of not getting your fingers stuck to everything. I imagine their new stuff (thin) is pretty good.

You'd imagine wrong

 Sammoth wrote:
Testors Model Master with the metal tip.

Best glue (easily available in the states) for plastic!

That and loctite gel control for super glue

I use the Insta-cure+ Cyanoacrylate glue. For everything.

Metal, resin, plastic and fingertips all come together in an instant.

One glue to bond them all!

I'll give another nomination to the loctite gel, for super glue. I use it on plastics as well, when I'm feeling lazy.

The GW plastic glue is meh...it works ok, but takes a bit too long to set, let alone dry for my liking.

One day I'll remember to pick up some testor's plastic glue when I'm at the hobby shop. We used to use it some time ago and I remember it being pretty good.

I didn't have a problem with Army Painter super glue, although it's thin, so I don't use it often. The Army Painter plastic glue...well I ruined the bottle on day one poking the top with a nail that was a little too big. We'd just moved and I couldn't fine anything smaller. Split the tube straight down! Didn't get another tube to replace it because I had other stuff to use.

I use exclusively Testors glues for my minis. I use the bottles (with the metal tips) for most work, and the very thick tube stuff for major joints. The tube stuff is very thick and you'll need to hold/support the pieces for a decent amount of time, but it leave a true weld. The bottles are great for pinpoint accuracy and they set reasonably quickly.

For metal/resin, I use loctite gel or Gorilla super glues. They are both tough as nails. Try to avoid the spray fixative if you can, I have heard that it makes the glue join more brittle than regular air drying.

Also bear in mind that CA glues (super glues) need moisture in the air to set properly, so if you're in a dry area, you may need a source of humidity in your hobby area (You being from Wisconsin, I doubt that matters, in New Mexico, it matters to me

ciao
v/r
Bill

Testors Model Master with the metal tip or Revell contacta professional with the metal needle dispenser.

I personally prefer the Testors, but it's all much the same.

I use BSI Insta-Cure+

Works great for plastics and ok for metal.

A little Insta-set is always useful.

I use Zap - a -gap CA+ glue for all of my miniature glue needs, with some pinning of resin/metal models to ensure a good bond. I used to use plastic glue, but I've come to appreciate the fact that my models are no longer fused together after gluing them.

I use Ambroid Pro Weld for liquid cement and Revell Contact Pro for semi-liquid cement. The same type of bottle is available in the USA by Testors.

 Flippa wrote:

 Captain Fantastic wrote:


GW plastic glue was always good, and had the advantage of not getting your fingers stuck to everything. I imagine their new stuff (thin) is pretty good.

You'd imagine wrong

I agree. Even gw's studio team don't use it. They use revel or humbrol plastic glue, or loctite super glue