Switch Theme:

Please critique my finished tyranid prime?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





I just recently finished my tyranid prime from the other thread. Could you guys please critique and tell me how it looks?
[Thumb - image.jpg]

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2014/02/24 00:52:46


 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





More pics
[Thumb - image.jpg]

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2014/02/24 00:50:16


 
   
Made in us
Mutilatin' Mad Dok





Medford Oregon

Edited by AgeOfEgos--we really don't need that type of comment.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/02/24 04:15:26


   
Made in us
Perfect Shot Black Templar Predator Pilot




Roseville, CA

Troll aside. Your model does indeed look unfinished. Lots of details have been left unfinished. Id say go back and finish the detail work and give it a wash
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





More too
[Thumb - image.jpg]

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Last one
Ps: what specific details do I need to fix?
[Thumb - image.jpg]

   
Made in us
Mutilatin' Mad Dok





Medford Oregon

I would suggest a thinned black wash for the red. Your red is too bright and shows not enough detail. Also a light gret directional drybrush for the feet and black areas. Maybe try purple with pink sidebrush for the tongue. Than get some kind of contrasting colors for light for the red areas like you did for blue and use that for highlights on the red areas.


Try something like that.

Also as a last thought. Parts of the sword and gun like the loops on the gun. You could use a different color somehow. Like to pull attention to it a bit while someone is looking at it.
Like the areas on the sword near its tip where it has that hole. Darken it or do something that will bring attention to that part of the sword and make it more distinct.


   
Made in sa
Bane Lord Tartar Sauce





Saudi Arabia

It's a good start, but unfortunately nowhere near a finished product. You should go back and paint the swords at the very least, since they are meant to be bone. Start with a light, yellowish brown like Vomit Brown, and then drybrush an ivory or bone color over that. It should be well within your skill level.

IMPOSSIBLE IS RELATIVE
Boss, everything you make is gold.

Dubstep Tau, let there be LIGHT.
Blind them with SCIENCE, a tutorial series for adding LEDs and effects to your models.
Powerlifting and Plasma, a Romantic Comedy 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





 bossfearless wrote:
It's a good start, but unfortunately nowhere near a finished product. You should go back and paint the swords at the very least, since they are meant to be bone. Start with a light, yellowish brown like Vomit Brown, and then drybrush an ivory or bone color over that. It should be well within your skill level.


Ok. is there anything that I could do with the deathspitter?
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Sentient OverBear






Clearwater, FL

 Vasarto wrote:
your model looks like gak

Give up

You fail at life


go die in a fire.


This is completely unacceptable. Please check the email that you used to register this account with.

-=Edit=- Your email address doesn't work, so please note that you will be unable to post on Dakka Dakka for two weeks. We don't typically air out dirty laundry like this in public, but the unacceptable nature of your comment in this forum in particular, coupled with our inability to reach you otherwise, has resulted in this.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/02/24 01:40:58


DQ:70S++G+++M+B++I+Pw40k94+ID+++A++/sWD178R+++T(I)DM+++

Trust me, no matter what damage they have the potential to do, single-shot weapons always flatter to deceive in 40k.                                                                                                       Rule #1
- BBAP

 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





so basically would this work as a too do list.

Fix bonesword.
Fix teeth color
Fix deathspitter details
Fix tongue color.

Anything else I can do. I really want to improve.
   
Made in us
I'll Be Back



Wasteland Tomb World

Slow down on your painting is the best advice I can give.

The model looks more like it’s only at its base coat of colors, Troll aside keep working at it . Maybe look up some videos on basic highlighting techniques

3000
 
   
Made in gb
Blood-Drenched Death Company Marine





United Kingdom

Elcheapodeca wrote:
so basically would this work as a too do list.

Fix bonesword.
Fix teeth color
Fix deathspitter details
Fix tongue color.

Anything else I can do. I really want to improve.


You can condense that down to: detail work. Look hard at all the red bits and ask yourself: could/should this be another colour? Like others have said you've got some good base colours down, but not much else. I suggest for the bone swords that you do them in the same colour as the beasty's carapace.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/02/24 17:37:45


   
Made in us
Kinebrach-Knobbling Xeno Interrogator





South CakkaLakka

Personally I would use some washes, then layer some more paint over the washes. It looks like you already have some dry-brushing going on and that is great!

For starters the red sections;
- use Devlan Mud (or some other brown coloured wash) and get it in all the creases, folds, crevices, etc...
- using the same red colour as the base, layer on top of the washed parts but do not paint the creases, folds, crevices (where the wash went...)
- use Red wash (or some other red coloured wash) and wash over all the red sections, the previously washed crevices will get even darker
- using the same red colour as before, highlight the ridges and raised sections first, then try to feather the red going into the creases, folds, crevices, etc... but being careful not to paint over the creases, folds, crevices, etc...
- using an orange colour, highlight the raised sections thinly (optional)
- using a yellow colour, highlight the very extreme tips of the raised sections (optional)

If you do not have washes you can always water down your paints, a good milky consistency is what I go for. Obviously don't go and water down the paint pot

Look forward to your progress

Vive la mort, vive la guerre, vive le sacre mercenaire..

What is best in life ?
Crush your Enemies,
See them driven before you,
To hear the lamentation of the women  
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Vallejo, CA

It's coming along. As mentioned a splash of wash or a bit more detail work wouldn't go amiss.

I think the biggest problem, though, is that it's not based yet. That's what makes it look unfinished to me. When you're done with the painting, glue a little sand and maybe some static grass on there or something, and it will make the mini look more polished and "finished".

In any case, you know how to do blocking properly, and I'm seeing a bit of drybrushing as well. And you don't have risibly thick paint or brushstrokes or mould lines. You're already at least half way to being a gold demon painter.


Your one-stop website for batreps, articles, and assorted goodies about the men of Folera: Foleran First Imperial Archives. Read Dakka's favorite narrative battle report series The Hand of the King. Also, check out my commission work, and my terrain.

Abstract Principles of 40k: Why game imbalance and list tailoring is good, and why tournaments are an absurd farce.

Read "The Geomides Affair", now on sale! No bolter porn. Not another inquisitor story. A book written by a dakkanought for dakkanoughts!
 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Is this any better? What spots can I still improve on?
So far I have
Repainted- bone swords and added some blood effects to the bone sword
Used Kislev flesh to highlight fleshly parts including tounge
Added a brown wash to the vents and the deathspitter.
Painted teeth black.
Planning on basing with agrellan earth.
[Thumb - image.jpg]

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Pics
[Thumb - image.jpg]

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Pics 2
[Thumb - image.jpg]

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Pics3
[Thumb - image.jpg]

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Pics 4
[Thumb - image.jpg]

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Pics 5
[Thumb - image.jpg]

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Final pic
[Thumb - image.jpg]

   
Made in us
Contagious Dreadnought of Nurgle






Near Boston

The carapace looks decent (the blue bit) its really hard to see any more than that (the pics seem blurry, and the lighting is shadowing the rest out.


Are you using a cell phone or an actual camera?

As for lighting try taking pics with a white background (a couple pieces of "fresh" printer paper will work)

If you are using an actual camera look for the "macro setting" (should have an Icon that looks like a little flower)

as for positioning for the picture try bracing the camera a bit to decrease movement that might be causing blur.

Link to my Index Thread here on dakka


Find me on Twitter Sam Butler @Rivet_Zone

Winner "Best 40k Table" Daboyz GT 2010,2011
"Sic Vis Pachem Parabellum" - Publius Flavius Vegetius Renatus
Veni, Vidi discessi.-Galorn. 
   
Made in fr
Violent Enforcer







I second the comment that the quality of the photos themselves make it difficult to see the model clearly, and I would also suggest to use daylight to take your pictures (if possible) as opposed to the yellow lighting you've got at the moment. However, the model itself is definitely improved from the original photos with the work on the sword. The blue plates look pretty good as well
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Marblehead MA, U.S.A.

The paint job is getting better. I still think as others said a wash on the red would do very nicely. Also, there are little "cracks" or vent looking things in the skin, painting those a bright color like green and then washing them looks really good.

Current Armies: Chaos Space Marines(Building), Orks(Completed), Vanilla Marines(Near Completion), Trollbloods(Completed), Axony (Building)

"Nobody ever defended anything successfully, there is only attack and attack and attack some more."
George S. Patton

“Courage isn't having the strength to go on - it is going on when you don't have strength.”
― Napoleon Bonaparte 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





I tried to so the wash thing with warpstone green. Do you guys like it or should I try again with moot green.
[Thumb - image.jpg]

   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Pics 2
[Thumb - image.jpg]

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Marblehead MA, U.S.A.

That looks great. It helps break up the solid red of the skin.

Current Armies: Chaos Space Marines(Building), Orks(Completed), Vanilla Marines(Near Completion), Trollbloods(Completed), Axony (Building)

"Nobody ever defended anything successfully, there is only attack and attack and attack some more."
George S. Patton

“Courage isn't having the strength to go on - it is going on when you don't have strength.”
― Napoleon Bonaparte 
   
Made in gb
Conniving Informer





This looks far better now than before, just a little comment on the hosing on the gun you may want to touch up a bit with a drybrush of the original colour to define the recesses a bit more. Otherwise looking great
   
Made in au
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Subsector Australia

It's coming along to a nice tabletop standard. As the others have suggested, I strongly recommend giving your models a proper base.

It doesn't have to be complicated or hard to do, it can be as simple as gluing sand, gravel, bits of rock and bark, painting it and giving them a wash.

That way, it will give your models a much more completed look.
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: