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I've spent the last half hour trying to get this freaking primer to work, mixing in more water, more primer, but its always to damned liquidy. I've wasted two jars (Which I dont even care about, I didnt even want them) already.
Use a spray primer instead.
If you insist on using the brush-on stuff though:
1. wash your models in warm soapy water to get rid of any greasy release agent
2. make sure you really shake the pot to ensure the paint is properly all mixed together. Paint is basically made up from pigment + medium which can & does separate.
3. when you mix in the water, add a little at a time & try it out until you are happy.
Check out my gallery here Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!!
bubber wrote: Use a spray primer instead.
If you insist on using the brush-on stuff though:
1. wash your models in warm soapy water to get rid of any greasy release agent
2. make sure you really shake the pot to ensure the paint is properly all mixed together. Paint is basically made up from pigment + medium which can & does separate.
3. when you mix in the water, add a little at a time & try it out until you are happy.
Pored out the two cups I was using, just gonna use spray primer from now on.
You just have to shake the can then spray, right? No extra steps?
Hive Fleet Cerberus wrote: I've spent the last half hour trying to get this freaking primer to work, mixing in more water, more primer, but its always to damned liquidy. I've wasted two jars (Which I dont even care about, I didnt even want them) already.
There is your second problem.
If you thin paint that is already thin (like Imperial Primer is), it's not going to fix it. I have no experience with Imperial Primer, but from what I've read the consistency is kind of odd but once it is one the miniature and dries it's fine. Personally, if airbrushing is not something you do, your best bet for priming a miniature is to use an aerosol primer; either a sandable automotive primer (available at automotive stores) or something like Tamiya Fine Surface Primer (look in hobby shops, R/C car shops, and I think Hobby Lobby sells it as well). The other thing to remember is, that when it comes to priming, less is more. The model does not need to be fully covered in primer for it to work properly.
I found this video too, it might be of help to you:
d-usa wrote: "When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
bubber wrote: Use a spray primer instead.
If you insist on using the brush-on stuff though:
1. wash your models in warm soapy water to get rid of any greasy release agent
2. make sure you really shake the pot to ensure the paint is properly all mixed together. Paint is basically made up from pigment + medium which can & does separate.
3. when you mix in the water, add a little at a time & try it out until you are happy.
Pored out the two cups I was using, just gonna use spray primer from now on.
You just have to shake the can then spray, right? No extra steps?
If you're painting resin, scrub the models after a soapy water bath of 24 hours or so...if you're painting most other things, yeah, spray on, wait a few hours (i wait 24 hours ideally) and then go ahead and paint.
Make sure to read the instructions on the spray primer and do exactly as they say. It sounds really straightforward but spray on primers and varnishes are a delicate art form, particularly in humid environments.
I realise that sounds really sarcastic but priming is harder than most people would think!
Sort of. It's still recommended to clean the models beforehand & let them dry completely.
Shake well before use, make sure it's not too cold outside or too windy, don't spray in an enclosed area or breath in the fumes.
After you've finished turn the can upside down and do a quick spurt to clear the nozzle.
Any spray on your skin will come off easily with soap & water. I tend to scape the paint off my nails with a pocket knife.
Check out my gallery here Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!!
No. The general consensus is that it is not a true primer but merely a can of black spray paint. There is a difference between an actual primer and regular paint due to the additives in the product.
It is also over $16, which is absolutely ridiculous.
You can go to the hardware store (or Wal-Mart, if you're so inclined) and buy a cheaper can of aerosol primer that works just as good, if not better, than the insanely overpriced GW "primer."
d-usa wrote: "When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
Don't buy GW spray cans. Not only is it more expensive, but sometimes there are questionable batches according to several anecdotes from people.
I use normal automotive primer for my stuff. Never failed me so far, and I'm prone to painting really detailed pieces so it goes without saying that it doesn't harm the details unless you sprayed it too thickly.
You'll save money, save time, and save a headache. Buy spraycan primers. Test it out first on a sprue to see if it works fine. Or ask people about brands they've used (I can't recommend mine since they're only available locally).
And wait, GW's spraypaint is $16?!?! The ones I use are like, $3 each. jesus.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/03/08 09:43:00
There are TONS of threads on different spray primers, so maybe do a bit of a search.
I use either the rustoleum white primer from home depot, or the "armory" (not army painter, Armory) primer from the hobby store.
One note on spray on primers - use sweeping motions and quick bursts to cover the model - so you don't get it too thick.
best of luck!
DavePak
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If you make the investment in an airbrush, airbrush primer is the best imo. Best control over coat thickness, cheap per volume, less affected by the weather etc. Vallejo Polyurethane primer can be brushed on too, but it's less smooth than an airbrushed or spray canned coat. So basically the same as GW imperial primer, but 10% of the price ; p
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/03/08 21:58:37
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