Switch Theme:

Tau codex desert camo colours.  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in au
Fresh-Faced New User




Can anyone tell me the exact colours other than tau light ochre that they have used to do the camo on the hammerhead below? Cant find any info on what colours to use anywhere that refer to citadel paints.

   
Made in us
Navigator





Carbondale, IL

I can tell you the old colors, match as best you can:

basecoat vomit brown
draw camo pattern on with a pencil
test pattern with three blocks: vermin brown, 50/50 vermin brown/bleached bone.

So you end up with the old vermin brown, a 50/50 mix of vermin brown and bleached bone (the lighter color) and vomit brown


ref: how to paint citadel tanks, pg 46

You should be able to approximate with the following (using https://www.hiveworldterra.co.uk/Article/view_CoatDArmsConversionChart.html (EDIT: or http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint+Range+Compatibility+Chart, thanks Ghaz) as a guide)

Tau Light Ochre, a 50/50 mix of Ushabti Bone and Skrag Brown, and Skrag Brown

If you need the original colors, those are Coat 'd arms paints and the link above has their color names.

This message was edited 4 times. Last update was at 2014/06/27 17:49:54


SIUC Strategic Games Society, a Roleplaying/Tabletop/Card student organization/club at Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
 Vermis wrote:
 Bronzefists42 wrote:
I noticed that the plastic glue label recommends wearing something akin to a hazmat suit when handling the glue. I have been using it for years and never used gloves or anything nor do I know anyone who does. ShouldI be worried for my health?

Well, there's a slight risk of gluing something together with it. Only slight, mind.

 
   
Made in au
Fresh-Faced New User




That is the greatest response of all time.

Great success.
   
Made in us
General





Florence, KY

LoH wrote:

You should be able to approximate with the following (using https://www.hiveworldterra.co.uk/Article/view_CoatDArmsConversionChart.html as a guide)


Or this http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint+Range+Compatibility+Chart

'It is a source of constant consternation that my opponents
cannot correlate their innate inferiority with their inevitable
defeat. It would seem that stupidity is as eternal as war.'

- Nemesor Zahndrekh of the Sautekh Dynasty
Overlord of the Crownworld of Gidrim
 
   
Made in us
Navigator





Carbondale, IL



That too. it was late, and I just applied Google to the problem.

SIUC Strategic Games Society, a Roleplaying/Tabletop/Card student organization/club at Southern Illinois University - Carbondale
 Vermis wrote:
 Bronzefists42 wrote:
I noticed that the plastic glue label recommends wearing something akin to a hazmat suit when handling the glue. I have been using it for years and never used gloves or anything nor do I know anyone who does. ShouldI be worried for my health?

Well, there's a slight risk of gluing something together with it. Only slight, mind.

 
   
Made in au
Fresh-Faced New User




Ok so gave it a go. Wanted it to be abit more in your face than the codex example because, lets face it, form over function haha.

Needs abit if a clean up as i used a brush and it ran under the paint tape in areas. Colours used, tau light ochre base, 3:1 tau light ochre/scorched brown and scorched brown.



   
Made in us
Trustworthy Shas'vre




DFW area Texas - Rarely

Nice work.

One point - that is almost "too good" of a camo pattern - it is very high contrast - which in real world is exactly what you want in a pattern - as it breaks up the shape of the object it is on.

However, for our little plastic wargaming models, when using a more realistic contrast camo, they seem to loose detail and definition.

To prevent this, you want a more subtle camo pattern - one that clearly shows that something is camo (like the gw paint job) but you can still easily see the shape lines and details on the model.

Just a suggestion....love the pattern!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/07/01 19:26:18


DavePak
"Remember, in life, the only thing you absolutely control is your own attitude - do not squander that power."
Fully Painted armies:
TAU: 10k Nids: 9600 Marines: 4000 Crons: 7600
Actor, Gamer, Comic, Corporate Nerd
 
   
Made in us
Hardened Veteran Guardsman





NYC

I think an oil wash and some weathering can easily take care of toning down the contrast while keeping the whole model cohesive. Really nice job overall.
   
Made in us
Automated Rubric Marine of Tzeentch





I think that you should change that Scorched brown to something else. Something less black.
   
Made in gb
Speedy Swiftclaw Biker





UK

There's a really good video on YouTube by a company called buypainted I would high recommend you go watch it. It will solve all your problems

- 5000
- 2000 
   
Made in au
Fresh-Faced New User




I also agree that the camo job is abit to realistic, as such i have addedin afew bits of white to break it up abit, once the model is complete i will post better photos that arent iphone potato spec. I saw the youtube vid, used the stencil technic to apply the paints a layer at a time. So much win when you start peeling off all the tape and revealing the camo


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Probably going to repaint part of my hammerhead the same as my piranha. Just do the wing section like the hammerhead below.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/07/04 03:47:07


 
   
Made in gb
Speedy Swiftclaw Biker





UK

I do prefer the grey camp to the yellow. But your paint job was actually really nice. I like it crisp. But that's personal preference.

- 5000
- 2000 
   
Made in au
Fresh-Faced New User




Its been awhile since my last update. But i have finished this. Dont really have a great photo.

Overall im pretty happy with the finish. From certian angles it is hard to make out all the lines and shape of the vechile like camo should. But also really pops on the game board and draws alot of attention.

Under a warm white light



Under a cool white light

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/09/02 13:16:04


 
   
Made in us
Anti-Armour Yaogat




Cookeville, TN; USA

Good work there! Keep it up!


There are 10 types of people in this world; those that know binary and those that dont.
----->MANTIS MAKER COMPETITION <---- 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: