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Regarding Wireless adapters etc. For a wireless network, you need some sort of network card that slots inside the case? (the antenna comes with it yes?) I've always had a problem with latency etc. My PC is the PC positioned furthest away in our house from our Wireless Router. Do wireless network cards/adapters vary in quality - if I buy a more expensive better quality card/adapter (e.g. a higher mbps?), would that improve my connection?
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I'm looking to replace my decrepit 7 year old PC, with a budget of maybe ~ £600 at most, and found this on Amazon.
The games I'm hoping to play are:
-all the Total War games (particularly Napoleon, Shogun 2 and Rome 2). Already own them all, but performance is currently poor (and non-existant for Rome 2).
-Battlefield 4 -Lord of the Rings Online (currently poor performance and frequent crashes with current PC)
-Elder Scrolls Online -Arma 2 and 3
-Planetside 2 (I know PS2 requires very powerful specs, but would this PC be a good basis\? - could I replace the components with more powerful upgrades in future when I can afford it?)
I've had a look at the recommend specs and it appears this PC meets all the requirements.
What do you think?
How long will these specs remain up to date?
Is it a good starting point for future upgrades?
Also, this comes with Windows 8. Which is better - 7 or 8?
I'm aware that sourcing the components and building the PC yourself can be considerably cheaper, but I know next to nothing about building a PC. All I've done to date was replace an old faulty 1Gb RAM disk with a 4Gb disk. And even then I ordered the wrong type (DDR3 when I needed DDR1).
Item Weight 8 Kg
Product Dimensions 48.4 x 41.4 x 24.6 cm Item model number 7877-0425
Series 7877-0425
Color Black
Processor Brand Intel
Processor Type Core i7
Processor Speed 3.4 GHz
Processor Count 4
RAM Size 16 GB
Computer Memory Type DDR3 SDRAM
Hard Drive Size 2 TB Graphics Card Description Intel HD Graphics 4000
Wattage 300 watts
Operating System Windows 8
This message was edited 4 times. Last update was at 2014/09/19 00:04:07
Those specs do look like a pretty good gaming PC. The power supply looks a bit small if you want to upgrade though.
3 things I'd do with it:
Replace the PSU as soon as you want to add to it.
Add a 2nd hard drive, to run the operating system and keep it away from the games files. 2 drives are faster than 1, as it can throw data around quicker, and load times aren't affected by whatever the PC is doing in the background.
Fit a gaming video card. Look here for what Tom's Hardware compares the Intel 4000 against:
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/gaming-graphics-card-review,review-32899-7.html
But, the i7 and 16GB are a good start.
[update] Looking into it a bit further, the i7 might be overkill.
I've just have a look at Overclockers offerings, and the i5 (which been running for a couple of years) is probably good enough.
I'd keep looking, if I were you.
Back with an alternative soon.
Automatically Appended Next Post: Try something like this:
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FS-001-OG If you have a copy of Windows to put on it, it's a pretty good spec, and should last some time.
Compared to the Amazon PC, it has:
No Windows,
i5 CPU, not the i7, but that's OK,
Smaller but faster hard drive,
8GB, not the 16GB of Amazon's,
Bigger PSU,
Better nVidia gaming card,
Named parts, which is a godsend when knowing your PC.
This message was edited 4 times. Last update was at 2014/09/08 10:56:41
're the I7. It doesn't bother me that it's "overkill". At £361 this is half the price of the budget I had planned. What matters is that the I7 is good quality and won't become outdated quickly.
're the double hard drive, is that complicated? How do you go about installing the OS onto a separate hard drive and running everything else off a separate hard drive?
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/09/08 11:10:49
Every time I hear "in my opinion" or "just my opinion" makes me want to strangle a puppy. People use their opinions as a shield that other poeple can't critisize and that is bs.
If you can't defend or won't defend your opinion then that "opinion" is bs. Stop trying to tip-toe and defend what you believe in.
I don't know whether there's a point in buying something to then instantly take apart. It might be better to look for compatible parts off the bat. I'm sure you can still do it under that budget.
Adding a 2nd hard drive to an existing PC is easy. It'll show up straight away, and you can format it as the OS tells you how to.
When you install an app or game, just change the drive letter from C:\... to D:\... and the PC just gets on with it.
But the installation of an OS is a bit more work.
You've got to have the drivers and software installs to get it running properly again.
Fit the new drive, install Windows on it, and feed it the disks that apply to the hardware.
For a PC like the Amazon machine, you'll get into all sorts of problems unless you can identify the hardware beforehand. Hit the manufacturer's website and the Downloads section. If the drivers and software aren't there, it's from a cacky manufacturer. Or, it'll just work, and you move onto the next part. The motherboard is the most important 'part' to get loaded, and it'll take maybe 6-8 drivers to get going at full speed.
So, if you intend on having a PC that lasts for a while, avoid boxes like the one on Amazon. They're fine for 'it's just a PC', but anything more, you'll want to replace it soon enough.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/09/08 12:20:31
Watch a couple of videos on how to build a pc, realise that it is actually a simple process, you just need an afternoon to sit down and work through it. If you have a screw driver then you basically have all the tools you need.
The I7 in the first linked computer is more then likely one designed for a Laptop, therefore its going to be outperformed by a normal I5 desktop process and most AMD desktop processors.
The PC from Overclockers that Skinnereal posted did not come with Windows for a start, adding that would take you over £600 straight away.
Here is a quick list I made up in amazon:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/registry/wishlist/FC4KKB99NM16/ref=cm_wl_huc_view
With the new consoles a lot of the newer games are going to be better optimized for more then 4 cores and AMD architecture in general. Planetside 2 was in fact one of the first PC games to actually make use of all 6 cores. I use it and can happily play any one of the games you listed!
Initially go for something with an SSD in it. Worry about adding a hard drive later when you start running out of room and have £50 to spare. You also will not need to worry about reinstalling windows, bearing in mind most pre-built systems wont come with a copy of it to reinstall from....
The R9 270X has some very good reviews and can play anything out atm at 1920x1080 although an Nvidia equivalent will do the job just as well. Drivers will come on a disk with your motherboard except from the Graphics card which you just need to go to the manufactures website to find.
You could also quite easy swap a couple of bit from the list I posted and save a bit of money as well.
Automatically Appended Next Post: I use the case in the list and it is nice and easy to work with and the fans that come with it are fairly reasonable so unless you live in a desert you should be ok keepign it cool . Unless your over clocking your CPU then the stock CPU cooler is sufficient as well.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/09/08 12:54:02
"As a customer, I'd really like to like GW, but they seem to hate me." - Ouze "All politicians are upperclass idiots"
Ok, I read the specs of the first one properly and fair enough its a desktop I7 Reading the reviews it has a PCI-E x16 slot but unless its a version two or 3 slot it would hamper whatever graphics card you put in there, and as Skinnereal pointed out you would definitely need a new PSU. It would be a fath to get it to work well in-game. Its not what its designed for at the end of the day.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/09/08 14:56:07
"As a customer, I'd really like to like GW, but they seem to hate me." - Ouze "All politicians are upperclass idiots"
Cooling can be a big thing in gaming PCs, and I've run into trouble before.
If you are re-using your old case, make sure it has a good airflow. Having a fan in the front to suck in air, and another at the back to pull it through, should be enough, until you get beefy kit. I'd say a new case might well be in order, and you can leave your old PC as a standby.
As for OS, I've not used W8, but haven't heard bad things recently.
Since Windows 7 is really V6.1, does anyone know Windows 8's version number?
I think its now Windows 8.1 but after using a friends pc with Windows 8 I decided to go for Windows 7 and wait to see what Windows 9/threshold was like.
Automatically Appended Next Post: Just watched his video, basically what I was trying to show but he has got it down even cheaper Go for it its a solid set of parts and you can upgrade it later if you want. Only thing I might suggest is going for an SSD initially instead of the HDD. It will make a masive difference speed wise. When you run out of storage then just grab a TB HDD later on. There is nearly no difference in the set up process.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/09/08 17:18:28
"As a customer, I'd really like to like GW, but they seem to hate me." - Ouze "All politicians are upperclass idiots"
You can update 8 to 8.1 for free by the looks of it. 8.1 has the look and feel of 8 plus a desktop style of 7 that you can get to by clicking the Start Icon. It's a bit tricky to get to grips with at the beginning but shouldn't take too long. Windows 8 removed the start Icon totally.
If I get the exact same parts as Jack frags that should eliminate any variables. Though I will probably try to recycle my current pc tower case.
My dad sent me the link to the Zoostorm pc in the OP and he thought it was a good price for the specs, hence why i sought feedback.
For operating systems, which is better Windows7 or 8?
The os that is better is the one that costs less.
Every time I hear "in my opinion" or "just my opinion" makes me want to strangle a puppy. People use their opinions as a shield that other poeple can't critisize and that is bs.
If you can't defend or won't defend your opinion then that "opinion" is bs. Stop trying to tip-toe and defend what you believe in.
That mobo lists this:
VIA 2021 with High Quality 108dB SNR HD audio
- 1 x Line In
- 4 x Line Out
- 1 x Mic In
That's a built-in sound card, and I doubt you'll be disappointed with it.
As for Wifi cards, is there a reason you can't wire-up? If Wifi is a requirement,look at USB Wifi adapters.
Having the antenna at the back on the PC is bad, and the signal has to get past the entire case-full of hardware. A USB adapter can be put anywhere you have a USB port, including on extension cables.
Also, most wireless access points can also work as a wifi adapter, and all you need is an ethernet LAN port on the PC for it to work. Ethernet cables can be much longer than USB, and you can put the access point in the best place in your room to hear the router. All it'd need is a power point, and enough ethernet cable to reach your PC.
This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2014/09/19 14:28:04
Skinnereal wrote:As for Wifi cards, is there a reason you can't wire-up? If Wifi is a requirement,look at USB Wifi adapters.
You mean like an ethernet cable, directly linking my PC to the router?
Yeah. The WiFi router is downstairs in the lounge at the front of the house. My bedroom is upstairs (1st floor) at the back of the house. My parents have a Mac PC in the lounge right next to the router (on the same desk in fact). Other than the Mac, I'm the only person in the house who still uses a desktop PC. Everyone else use mobile devices like Laptops and iPads. I suspect the physical distance from the router to my PC contributes to my unreliable WiFi connection (its adequate for internet browsing, but is awful for online gaming).
Also, I saw this pre-built PC on offer on the same site. Doesn't come with an OS though, so I'll get Windows 7 Home. Does it compare favourably to the JackFrags build?
That's pretty good, put it this way I have to survive on 500Kb/s...
The biggest advantage to plugging it directly into the router will be that it will cut down the latency (lag) by a significant amount.
"As a customer, I'd really like to like GW, but they seem to hate me." - Ouze "All politicians are upperclass idiots"
Optio wrote: That's pretty good, put it this way I have to survive on 500Kb/s...
Heh. We supposed to be getting "up to 50Mps" as we're on the BT Infinity deal thingy IIRC. But it seems like I never get more than 15 at most.
But there are a lot of devices in our house competing for bandwidth so I suppose thats the reason why.
1 Android Smartphone (brother)
2 iPhones. (parents)
2 iPads. (parents)
3 Laptops (parents and brother)
1 Mac PC (parents)
1 Desktop PC (me)
1 Amazon Kindle (me)
Xbox 360 (me & brother).
And...wow. Totalling all that up reminds me how relatively well off we are.
The biggest advantage to plugging it directly into the router will be that it will cut down the latency (lag) by a significant amount.
Yeah...thats not gonna happen. Not unless I can convince my parents to let me drill a hole in my bedroom floor/the lounge ceiling and drop a cable through, or have a cable snaking across the landing, down the stairs and into the lounge.
We used to do this for the Xbox 360 though with an Ethernet cable as it was only 3 metres from the router. But even that annoyed my parents and they got the official microsoft wireless adapter to replace the cable.
This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/09/19 19:10:19
It might be worth asking them if you could replace the router for a better one then to give you a better range and prevent any drop outs. You would also be able to change the settings inside to give your PC priority in network traffic
"As a customer, I'd really like to like GW, but they seem to hate me." - Ouze "All politicians are upperclass idiots"
Optio wrote: It might be worth asking them if you could replace the router for a better one then to give you a better range and prevent any drop outs. You would also be able to change the settings inside to give your PC priority in network traffic
How does one do that?
You can use a web browser to accept your networks settings by typing in a certain ip address right?
I did this once following a guide off the internet, trying to set up some port forwarding and set up a DMZ for the Xbox (its on a closed NAT, which means I can't connect to certain people on my friends list who also have closed NATs). The only result was that the network crashed and nobody could use the internet. I had to undo everything I did and haven't messed with it since.
Depends on the options available through the router but yh just find the right IP address for your router and enter it into your browser then play with the available settings, It should be simpler then what you described.
"As a customer, I'd really like to like GW, but they seem to hate me." - Ouze "All politicians are upperclass idiots"
I went with the parts listed in the JackFrags build, plus a 120Gb SSD to load Windows 7 OS onto. For WiFi, I'm going with a TP-Link Wireless PCI adapter for the time being. In future I'll look at better alternatives, like an access point booster or a better quality modem.
Thankyou for the feedback everyone, its been very helpful.
This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/09/20 11:57:50
I'm having problems with overheating in-game (on the desktop its fine). The fans go crazy, and the temperatures shoot up. I'm especially worried about the processor, as it goes from ~30c to well over 60c when I'm running a game.
The problem seems to be that the airflow is insufficient for the processor, perhaps the inbuilt out-take fan (which came with the case) is too weak? Atm I'm dealing with it by opening the side panel to expose the interior and improve the airflow, but this is obviously not an ideal solution.
Is there any way to improve the airflow in a BitFenix Comrade Midi Tower? Is there a more powerful out-take/ventilation fan that I can get to replace the one that came with the case? Are there any side panels compatible with this case with an open grate or vent that will improve airflow?
If you have the fans in the front, try taking the front panel off.
Also, make sure there's enough clear save both on-front and behind the case.
I used to get overheating problems with a 2-fan case, and mine now has fan sucking in on the front and top and a massive fan on the side. There a huge one at the back, directly in line with the CPU fans.
I didn't think 60c was a lot. Check the thresholds in the BIOS, or other monitoring tools.
6000 pts - Harlies: 1000 pts - 
4000 pts - 
1000 pts - 
1000 pts 
. Unless your over clocking your CPU then the stock CPU cooler is sufficient as well.
Go for it its a solid set of parts and you can upgrade it later if you want. Only thing I might suggest is going for an SSD initially instead of the HDD. It will make a masive difference speed wise. When you run out of storage then just grab a 
