Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Hi everyone,

We got inspired by some older vintage Blood Angels we found on craigslist this weekend - terrific job by someone about 15 years back. So, we're trying to do the same with our Ultramarines.

Have watched several videos (such as the one posted here back in April) on how to transfer decals - already extremely helpful - the whole idea of sliding from the paper to the model is helping us already.

*** No matter what we try (so far) the shoulders get pretty wrinkled - and then when we "worry" the decal to try to get it to stick down onto the shoulder, we end up tearing it.

*** Is there a secret to this?

Here's our blog posting about the inspiring Blood Angels.... http://battlegaming1.blogspot.com/2014/11/warhammer-40k-old-school-warhammer.html

Thanks

Take everything I say with a grain of salt

First, a gloss coat on the surface you want to apply the decal to helps. Wet the surface generously with clean water.

But, as I found, most important - little snipets and indents will take the tension out of the decal. Use a Xacto knive or what have you to cut little slits in the clear parts of the decal.
Then a decal softener will help the decal settle.

Should go on without much trouble now!

http://www.scalemodelguide.com/painting-weathering/decals/apply-waterslide-decals/

this is a good guide.

My own guide. Well regarded.
http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/winterdyne_tutorial3.pdf

Edit: long story short, Microsol and lots of it.

I used to just gloss coat the area, snip the decals a little whe applying them, then gloss over the decal. A final matte or satin varnish depending on the desired finish.

Then I got me some micro set and micro sol. I still gloss before and after but the decals look so much better and go on much easier too.

There are other decal softeners and fixers available and I'm sure they all do the same thing so just see what you can get in your area.

I tried the humbrol ones and they were a bit crap compared to Microset and Microsol.
Worth the effort of finding those.

 BattleGamer wrote:
Hi everyone,

We got inspired by some older vintage Blood Angels we found on craigslist this weekend - terrific job by someone about 15 years back. So, we're trying to do the same with our Ultramarines.

Have watched several videos (such as the one posted here back in April) on how to transfer decals - already extremely helpful - the whole idea of sliding from the paper to the model is helping us already.

*** No matter what we try (so far) the shoulders get pretty wrinkled - and then when we "worry" the decal to try to get it to stick down onto the shoulder, we end up tearing it.

*** Is there a secret to this?

Here's our blog posting about the inspiring Blood Angels.... http://battlegaming1.blogspot.com/2014/11/warhammer-40k-old-school-warhammer.html

Thanks

Depending on the decal, cut the decal finer than it's preset on the paper. For example, cut a slit between the tops of the U on the Ultramarines, cut 4 slices between the flanged part of the Templar Cross, and so forth. I found this hugely helpful when I built my Black Templars. Decals are a little trickier to get off the paper this way, but you avoid the buckling issue you mention.

winterdyne wrote:
My own guide. Well regarded.
http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/winterdyne_tutorial3.pdf

Edit: long story short, Microsol and lots of it.

This.

Easily one of the most comprehensive step-by-steps you will find. It's also important to note that, when done properly, using decals typically is not faster than painting markings.