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Made in us
Ancient Ultramarine Venerable Dreadnought






Illinois

This is my battlewagon. It is finished. What do you guys think? Images spoilered due to size.
Spoiler:

Above: Main Battlewagon. The 'ard case\armour plates are painted Troll Slayer Orange. You may be able to see a grot blasta. This grot blasta belongs to a grot rigger.
Spoiler:

Above: You may be able to see the grot rigger, but if you can see the grot rigger, you will not be able to see his grot blasta.
Spoiler:

Above: The grot turret. I like it because it has a big weapon (big shoota) in a small structure (turret)
Spoiler:

Above: The side of the grot turret with the arrow. Arrow painted Troll Slayer Orange.
Spoiler:

Above: Grot turret on Battlewagon. Looks very nice.
Spoiler:

Above: Kannon turret. Hull is painted Evil Sunz Scarlet and 'ard case\armour plates are Troll Slayer Orange.
Spoiler:

Above: Finished battlewagon with Kannon turret. Grot turret is not visible.
Spoiler:

Above: Top view of battlewagon with grot turret visible. Flash was used. If you cannot see the top very well, my apologies.




What do you guys think?

INSANE army lists still available!!!! Now being written in 8th edition format! I have Index Imperium 1, Index Imperium 2, Index Xenos 2, Codex Orks Codex Tyranids, Codex Blood Angels and Codex Space Marines!
PM me for an INSANE (100K+ points) if you desire.
 
   
Made in be
Three Color Minimum





It looks good,if i may i'd like to offer several points of advice though:

1. Thin your paints,just adding a little bit of water drastically improves how your models look,undiluted paint clogs up details. This can be seen in picture 5 where the ring underneath the Big Shoota is clogged.

2. Consider Black primer,ALOT of the details on such big vehicles are hard to reach,a black undercoat will mask most of that,in picture one for example you can see the white primer coming through.

Other than that it looks great,keep going!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/03/13 19:11:15


 casvalremdeikun wrote:
 grendel083 wrote:
I don't think they'll FAQ a White Dwarf...
Perhaps not, but since GW seems to subsist off sadness and pain, I can't rule it out.


 H.B.M.C. wrote:
GW's never found an opportunity they couldn't miss

 
   
Made in cz
Stabbin' Skarboy






Czech Republic

Hmm... You should definately use some washes (shades) to give the miniatures some shadows and definition. Use less paint on your brushes, you are losing some details because of the thick layers. And finally - think about using black primer/undercoat instead of white, at least for the parts which you plan to leave further unpainted (eg. the tracks). White undercoat is very good for the brightly-colored areas, but black one is more suitable for the metallic parts.

These tips are easy to follow and they will improve your paintjob 100%!

   
Made in us
Ancient Ultramarine Venerable Dreadnought






Illinois

 ergotoxin wrote:
Hmm... You should definately use some washes (shades) to give the miniatures some shadows and definition. Use less paint on your brushes, you are losing some details because of the thick layers. And finally - think about using black primer/undercoat instead of white, at least for the parts which you plan to leave further unpainted (eg. the tracks). White undercoat is very good for the brightly-colored areas, but black one is more suitable for the metallic parts.

These tips are easy to follow and they will improve your paintjob 100%!

OK thanks.

INSANE army lists still available!!!! Now being written in 8th edition format! I have Index Imperium 1, Index Imperium 2, Index Xenos 2, Codex Orks Codex Tyranids, Codex Blood Angels and Codex Space Marines!
PM me for an INSANE (100K+ points) if you desire.
 
   
Made in se
Ancient Space Wolves Venerable Dreadnought






I... actually don't know. Help?

Alright, my 5 cents: First of all, do you thin your paints? Not enough. The paint looks a bit gloopy and thick, remember that a few thin layers are better than one thick.
I recommend you to use some shades on those Orks, they look a bit flat.

Last but not least, try some drybrushing on the Trukk, just to pick out the edges.

To Valhall! ~2800 points

Tutorials: Wet Palette | Painting Station
 
   
Made in us
Ancient Ultramarine Venerable Dreadnought






Illinois

 Matthew wrote:
Alright, my 5 cents: First of all, do you thin your paints? Not enough. The paint looks a bit gloopy and thick, remember that a few thin layers are better than one thick.
I recommend you to use some shades on those Orks, they look a bit flat.

Last but not least, try some drybrushing on the Trukk, just to pick out the edges.

OK. It's a battlewagon, not a trukk. I do need to learn how to thin, but the new GW paints are much easier to thin. Or so I hear.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 Jinx Magiga wrote:
It looks good,if i may i'd like to offer several points of advice though:

1. Thin your paints,just adding a little bit of water drastically improves how your models look,undiluted paint clogs up details. This can be seen in picture 5 where the ring underneath the Big Shoota is clogged.

2. Consider Black primer,ALOT of the details on such big vehicles are hard to reach,a black undercoat will mask most of that,in picture one for example you can see the white primer coming through.

Other than that it looks great,keep going!

I have considered using black primer. I think I will do that on vehicles from now on.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/03/13 19:19:56


INSANE army lists still available!!!! Now being written in 8th edition format! I have Index Imperium 1, Index Imperium 2, Index Xenos 2, Codex Orks Codex Tyranids, Codex Blood Angels and Codex Space Marines!
PM me for an INSANE (100K+ points) if you desire.
 
   
Made in us
Bounding Dark Angels Assault Marine





down range

Hey there kaptin

You're off to a great start. I see you've been in for about two years. Well done on the truck! Any painted units to go with? You will be very happy with washes and dry brushing. Keep posting!

Sometimes there's Justice, sometimes there's Just Us... 
   
Made in us
Ancient Ultramarine Venerable Dreadnought






Illinois

 Josey4u wrote:
Hey there kaptin

You're off to a great start. I see you've been in for about two years. Well done on the truck! Any painted units to go with? You will be very happy with washes and dry brushing. Keep posting!

Acutally, I've been on Dakka for about 2 months. Its a battlewagon.
I have a unit of nobz and a lot of boyz. Grots too (which should count as 1/2 a model-look in 40K proposed rules for the thread where I talk about it.

INSANE army lists still available!!!! Now being written in 8th edition format! I have Index Imperium 1, Index Imperium 2, Index Xenos 2, Codex Orks Codex Tyranids, Codex Blood Angels and Codex Space Marines!
PM me for an INSANE (100K+ points) if you desire.
 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Wisconsin

Very orky!

Keep it up!

If you're not part of the solution, you're part of the particulate. 
   
Made in us
Ancient Ultramarine Venerable Dreadnought






Illinois

 Beta wrote:
Very orky!

Keep it up!

Thanks!!!!!!!

Did ya know that the 'ard case can also be used as Armour plates????

INSANE army lists still available!!!! Now being written in 8th edition format! I have Index Imperium 1, Index Imperium 2, Index Xenos 2, Codex Orks Codex Tyranids, Codex Blood Angels and Codex Space Marines!
PM me for an INSANE (100K+ points) if you desire.
 
   
Made in us
Hooded Inquisitorial Interrogator




New York, USA

Hey there,

Glad to see more people painting up orky stuff; something I'm partial to myself

I'd like to give you my honest thoughts just as I like to hear other people's honesty, and at this point in your painting career I think you should be aware of a few things.

1) I think you have used too much primer and sprayed it on too thick. This has the effect of clogging up detail and making flat surfaces appear "gloppy". This is a real pity because it looks like you've done a great conversion on the deff rolla and extra armor bits. When spraying undercoat primer on your models you should use short bursts of spray to avoid this issue.

2) White primer is not a good base for a large,dark vehicle unless it's going to be followed up by a spray color. I would use a grey or darker primer as others have said, because it gives you realistic shadows.

3) Using GW paints or any other paints out of the pot directly is really going to make it hard to build realistic colors and will give undesirable bumpy texture to your models. I would always put my paints on a palate and mix in a little water until the paint flows smoothly to avoid this. There are a lot of tutorials of YouTube about thinning your paints and I highly recommend watching them. As soon as I started thinning my paints my results improved tenfold.

4) When painting/assembling a large kit like a battle wagon it really helps to build and paint it into separate parts or assemblies. For battle wagons I tend to keep the wheels, threads, hard case, and deff rolla off until after everything is painted. That way you can reach all the crevices, and it will look much more complete.

5) Lastly while you've done a very neat job keeping separate colors from overlapping, using a single color on a surface tends to make it look very flat and unrealistic. I highly,highly recommend you invest in GW shades (aka washes) especially agrax earthshade(Brown), and nuln oild. (Black) These are really thin paints that you literally wash over your model, they pool in the recesses and create realistic shadows, make all the details pop and for an army like orks can be used to create a lot of nice dirt and grime effects. I would get some agrax earthshade and wash it all over the model if I were you, you will see the effect will be instantaneously better!

Anyway, I hope this helps, glad you're painting and converting up orky stuff, and hope to see more more from you!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/03/14 04:16:50


 
   
Made in us
Ancient Ultramarine Venerable Dreadnought






Illinois

 Hive City Dweller wrote:
Hey there,

Glad to see more people painting up orky stuff; something I'm partial to myself

I'd like to give you my honest thoughts just as I like to hear other people's honesty, and at this point in your painting career I think you should be aware of a few things.

1) I think you have used too much primer and sprayed it on too thick. This has the effect of clogging up detail and making flat surfaces appear "gloppy". This is a real pity because it looks like you've done a great conversion on the deff rolla and extra armor bits. When spraying undercoat primer on your models you should use short bursts of spray to avoid this issue.

2) White primer is not a good base for a large,dark vehicle unless it's going to be followed up by a spray color. I would use a grey or darker primer as others have said, because it gives you realistic shadows.

3) Using GW paints or any other paints out of the pot directly is really going to make it hard to build realistic colors and will give undesirable bumpy texture to your models. I would always put my paints on a palate and mix in a little water until the paint flows smoothly to avoid this. There are a lot of tutorials of YouTube about thinning your paints and I highly recommend watching them. As soon as I started thinning my paints my results improved tenfold.

4) When painting/assembling a large kit like a battle wagon it really helps to build and paint it into separate parts or assemblies. For battle wagons I tend to keep the wheels, threads, hard case, and deff rolla off until after everything is painted. That way you can reach all the crevices, and it will look much more complete.

5) Lastly while you've done a very neat job keeping separate colors from overlapping, using a single color on a surface tends to make it look very flat and unrealistic. I highly,highly recommend you invest in GW shades (aka washes) especially agrax earthshade(Brown), and nuln oild. (Black) These are really thin paints that you literally wash over your model, they pool in the recesses and create realistic shadows, make all the details pop and for an army like orks can be used to create a lot of nice dirt and grime effects. I would get some agrax earthshade and wash it all over the model if I were you, you will see the effect will be instantaneously better!

Anyway, I hope this helps, glad you're painting and converting up orky stuff, and hope to see more more from you!

Thanks you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

INSANE army lists still available!!!! Now being written in 8th edition format! I have Index Imperium 1, Index Imperium 2, Index Xenos 2, Codex Orks Codex Tyranids, Codex Blood Angels and Codex Space Marines!
PM me for an INSANE (100K+ points) if you desire.
 
   
Made in us
1st Lieutenant





Klamath Falls, OR

Ok big suggestion here following on everything else said: for large vehicles like this where it's going to be about 50/50 dark/light color a grey primer might be better than white. Or you can build in sub-assemblies & prime them individually in black or white depending on the final colors you intend for them. Of course I know an ork player who primes in his chosen base color as well so YMMV

   
 
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