Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

So, all of my models are painted in Testors brand model paint, they are left over from when I built model planes+WWII tanks.

I'm starting to turn over a new leaf in painting, and was wondering if I should switch over to GW or vallejo paints, is there a big enough difference in quality / colors that it would make a difference?

Does anyone else use Testors?

If it turns out that I want to start over on the paint jobs, what is the best way to strip a plastic model? (and no, not the inflatable kind )

There is a huge debate that you can find in many, many threads on Vallejo vs GW.

Basically it boils down to what you want out of it. GW has moved to more of a paint by formula model with the different types of paints (and you get to buy the same color in three different bottles.....)

Vallejo has a massive paint range between Game Color, Model Color, Model Air, Game Air, Alcohol based Metallics etc.

Then throw Reaper and P3 into the mix and there ya go.

Personally I use a bunch of Vallejo, P3, Reaper, Army Painter, Secret Weapons Miniatures Washes, Oils to make washes. And some of the old GW line (till it runs out).

GW's paints are generally pretty damn good. They have an absolute load of different colors, and it's easy to pick a basecoat, wash, layer, and highlight for any real shade you're going for. I use a few Vallejo paints and they're good too, but GW paints are generally easier to find, and you can paint straight out of the bottle which you can't do with the Vallejo dropper bottles.

GW's paints are fairly easy to get started with, but I prefer Vallejo and P3 paints because they have much longer endurance. You don't go back to an old paint pot and open it up and find a caked layer around the rim has prevented it from closing properly and you have to go buy more paint the way you do with GW paints.

While GW does have a decent paint range and is generally better available all around.

I prefer Vallejo paints as they haven't really changed there formula that i can tell.

GW has boned me in some of my painting schemes when they went from coat de arms to china, then when through that crazy ip name changing insanity.

I will miss you charadon granite

 Bluefalcon23 wrote:
So, all of my models are painted in Testors brand model paint

Which type? Testors produces a number of different paint lines, including acrylics, enamels, and lacquers (although the last group are mostly in spray form). Acrylics are almost exclusively the weapon of choice for miniature painters (for a variety of reasons), so I'd be much more likely to nudge you toward GW/Vallejo/Reaper/P3 if you were using the little glass jar enamels than if you were using (and liking) Model Master acrylics.

Darn, heck if I know what type they are, they are in little square glass jars, all the labels I can find just say the color and about 5 million warning labels.

I do have one model master color, red, but I use it mainly for mixing as it seems to flake off easily, idk if it's me or it.

Seriously, does anyone else use Testors for Warhammer?

If those warnings include "flammable" and "contains petroleum distillates," then you have enamels. If that's the case, then very few, if anyone, uses them. Those that have, in the past, did so because they had them handy and didn't think to use anything else. When they switched to acrylics, they generally wished they had never 'abused' their old models with the brush-on enamels.

The paints have their place, mind you, just not for 95% of what 99% of Dakkanauts are looking to do.

If you instead have the (non-Model Master) acrylics, then I not only have no experience with them, I've also heard almost nothing about them. The few Testors acrylic reviews I've seen apply exclusively to airbrushed Model Master colors and came from scale model/RR hobbyists, not wargamers.

I'm pretty sure the Model Master Acrylics come in round jars like this one:



While they do have round jars of enamel like this:



I believe the square jars were strictly enamel paints:

I painted my first Ral Partha miniatures using a nylon brush (if you can even call them a brush....) and Testors Enamels exactly like that last picture, Ghaz

Holy crap, was that an exercise in frustration, LOL. I did most of the details with... a toothpick.

I'm pretty sure the Model Master Acrylics come in round jars like this one:

And you are right, that kind of paint is in round jars, and I have a red kind that doesn't stick very well. The rest of my paints are the enamel kind I guess, still cant find the label that says it though.

I painted my first Ral Partha miniatures using a nylon brush (if you can even call them a brush....) and Testors Enamels exactly like that last picture, Ghaz

Holy crap, was that an exercise in frustration, LOL. I did most of the details with... a toothpick.

Same here, but I have no idea what my brushes are made of, I simply had no idea there was any other way to do it. The toothpick worked alright compared to the brushes though, a sharpened bit of sprue also works well.

I also use the testors brand plastic glue (blue tube), but it doesn't seem any different than the GW kind.

Mine were super high quality synthetics. They were metal-free organic polymer handles and aliphatic polyamide bristles (other wise known as plastic and nylon). Just like these beauties:



Rawr.

 Talys wrote:
Mine were super high quality synthetics. They were metal-free organic polymer handles and aliphatic polyamide bristles (other wise known as plastic and nylon). Just like these beauties:



Rawr.

Hey! I still use a brush like that... to put the PVA glue on the base when I'm basing

Those kinds of brushes come free if you buy a 20 pesos acrylic set. Holy gak.

Those brushes honestly look like the ones you'd find being used in a Reception [That's kindergarten for you yanks] art class.

Oh man. Testors enamels and plastic glue? You're giving me major flashbacks. I find that those enamels often leave you with obnoxiously bright and shiny finishes; they're perfect for simulating vehicle paint but don't lend well to miniatures. I've also never had much luck with plastic glue; I always use good ol' super glue.

I definitely recommend acrylics, but whether you go for GW or Vallejo is entire a matter of pricing and color choice. Both will give great results, both are pretty painless to work with. Brushes are also endlessly variable. I have a few Citadel ones from when I was starting out, but my tiniest detail brushes were found in the painting isle at Michael's. I say hit the local art store and have fun, Treat yourself to a nice brush and you'll find painting far more enjoyable. I think there are a few stray hairs stuck in my older models from using crappy brushes.

I haven't used Testors in yearssssss. I think when I used them, they were actually oil base? Maybe? I don't know I was pretty young and I remember the set came with paint thinner. I would never used Testors on gw models. I use a mixture of GW paints, Badger Miniature, a few Army Painter, Vallejo, and I want to try out Scale 7 (there colors look great!)

Thanks everyone!

I have a few models on the assembly line right now, as soon as they are done (modeling, not painting) I will attempt to break free of my dogmatic views (take that IOM!) and use proper paints.

Would you recommend that I start with a tank or a marine? The tank I feel would be easier, but I also want it to look as good as possible. On the other hand, the marine would be more difficult, but easier to start over with and isn't going to be focused on for long.

 Bluefalcon23 wrote:
So, all of my models are painted in Testors brand model paint, they are left over from when I built model planes+WWII tanks.

I'm starting to turn over a new leaf in painting, and was wondering if I should switch over to GW or vallejo paints, is there a big enough difference in quality / colors that it would make a difference?

Does anyone else use Testors?

If it turns out that I want to start over on the paint jobs, what is the best way to strip a plastic model? (and no, not the inflatable kind )

I have used Testors, the older GW paints and Vallejo Model Color. My preference is Vallejo but I am also exploring inexpensive craft paints. A fellow player I know only uses Testors enamels and I think they flow very well and really provide a good layer. I however like water based paints for easy clean up. I consider Vallejo slightly better than Citadel in my experience but I can't comment on the newer Citadel. I used some of the inexpensive paint earlier today and was impressed.

Enamels can be fine. I actually went to the hobby shop last week and picked up a big pile of enamels because I really like them.

The major downside to enamels is the drying time and the harsh solvents you need to use to thin them. Also acrylics don't stick to them very well.

Enamels actually clean up really easily, grab some white spirit and it just dissolves the paint very easily. I've never understood why people complain about the clean up, I'd MUCH rather spray enamels through my airbrush than acrylics because they are much easier to clean up.

I mostly thin my enamels with white spirit, but I also have some Testors thinner that works well. Use synthetic brushes.

But the drying time is a killer. Even though I like enamels, I currently only use them for shading and washes and occasionally highlights. Enamels do typically have good coverage, but the same rule applies that if you want good clean coverage you need to use multiple coats, but where an acrylic you can lay down coats 5 minutes apart, most enamels you have to wait 4 to 6 hours. Where a good acrylic might need 4 coats to get good coverage you might be able to do it in 3 with a good enamel, but those 4 coats of acrylic can be done in a single sitting, I think that's the main reason wargamers prefer acrylics.

For a beginner I'd recommend starting out with acrylics. For an experienced painter I'd say try some enamels and see what you can do, there's a heap of techniques that work better with enamels.

I started with Testor's. I was really disappointed by them in terms of satisfactory shades, mixing, thinning, and price per mL, though I did buy them from a local hobby shop and Amazon or something might be cheaper. I also found that if there was any slop at all, the lids would seal themselves to the point of requiring a jar opener, alcohol inserted under the lip of the lid, or both; I'm a former weightlifter who did grip exercises as a part of my routine, so that was part of why I shifted. I first tried random stuff from Jo Ann's; it worked much better and the squeeze bottles were really nice. I picked up some GW paints for shades I couldn't find or wanted more precise matches, but I still didn't like the pot model. That said, once out of the pot and thinned and/or mixed, they were better quality than the stuff from Jo Ann's and Testor's; but expensive.

When I decided to start using washes, I got a recommendation to try Army Painter. On an impulse, I got a color primer spray and some of their regular paints, which they call war paints. I really, really liked them; quality seemed better than GW, and they were nearly as cheap per mL as what I got from Jo Ann's. Better yet, the dropper bottles were more precise than the Jo Ann's squirt tube bottle thingies, so I wasted much less; they might, as a result, be cheaper in terms of actual use as a result.

I don't know much about Vallejo's; I believe they also use little dropper bottles. If you plan to thin or mix, I heartily recommend either getting a brand with droppers, or getting some cheap, empty droppers to put your preferred brand into.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Bluefalcon23 wrote:
Thanks everyone!

I have a few models on the assembly line right now, as soon as they are done (modeling, not painting) I will attempt to break free of my dogmatic views (take that IOM!) and use proper paints.

Would you recommend that I start with a tank or a marine? The tank I feel would be easier, but I also want it to look as good as possible. On the other hand, the marine would be more difficult, but easier to start over with and isn't going to be focused on for long.

If you start with a tank, I recommend getting everything off the sprues and premiered before gluing, though you'll need to be careful anywhere surfaces have to permit rotation. Then paint a section, pant what it connects to, glue, and move on. You'll get more control with unfamiliar flow, better ability to reach certain details, and you'll limit what an errant drip or stroke can mess.

Paint a marine. It'll be done faster and you'll be able to watch yourself improve as you progress through a squad.

Also let me plug Vallejo paints. I love those little suckers and they last FOREVER. also I love the mix ability you get, when I started I bought my primary color, black, and white and was able to get a whole scheme going.

GW metallics are vastly superior (Leadbelcher and Sycorax Bronze are the best colors ever) but I use Vallejo for everything else.

Also, a Kolinski Red Sable brush (look for Red Sable brushes at any art store) does wonderful things for your painting and costs 3-5 bucks. I find it incredible that people won't spring for a 5$ brush over a 2$ brush when painting 30-60$ models.

Funny how the guys over on the "Planet Figure" forum all use enamels, and curse acrylics, for the most part.

I can sort of see why, since enamels allow for a lot of tricks that simply cannot be done with acrylics. You can fake the effects, but they are not really achievable as they are in enamels.

But the speed of painting of a large 54mm to 120mm figure is going to be much different from that of a gaming miniature.

Realistically, I wish that I could return to painting all of my figures with Humbrol enamels. Not only was the finish sturdier, but it allowed for much more subtle control of the paints, which themselves tended to flow better.

MB

BeAfraid wrote:
Funny how the guys over on the "Planet Figure" forum all use enamels, and curse acrylics, for the most part.

I figure it mostly comes down to blending. Acrylics simply don't blend well. I imagine that becomes more apparent when you go up to 54mm, 120mm and larger scale busts where any banding or blotchiness will be more pronounced and take much more effort to eliminate.

Someone showed me once on a palette that with a few strokes of the brush they created a really nice blend with enamels (obviously having a decent amount of skill to know how to do the strokes!) while trying to do the same with an acrylic looked "okay" but no where near as smooth.

 Ghaz wrote:

I believe the square jars were strictly enamel paints:

Testors acrylics come in the same glass jars now as well. I needed a particular color a few years back and my FLGS is 25 miles away. My choices were to pay $5+ in gas to get one paint or to spend half that at the Michael's Craft store and get the Testors starter pack that had yellow in it. The paints are very watery with the pigment settling like fudge on the bottom of the jar. The "skim" at the top isn't clear and is still the same color but it is very runny and requires multiple coats even over light colors. I wouldn't recommend them overall.

 warboss wrote:
Testors acrylics come in the same glass jars now as well. I needed a particular color a few years back and my FLGS is 25 miles away. My choices were to pay $5+ in gas to get one paint or to spend half that at the Michael's Craft store and get the Testors starter pack that had yellow in it. The paints are very watery with the pigment settling like fudge on the bottom of the jar. The "skim" at the top isn't clear and is still the same color but it is very runny and requires multiple coats even over light colors. I wouldn't recommend them overall.

I have bought a few Humbrol enamels that must have been sitting on the shelf for an eternity and were well and truly separated out. Normally I just give them a good shake for a minute and they're fine, but I've had a couple where it was too thick in the bottom for shaking to do much, so I used a bit of sprue as a stirring stick and stirred it for a while.

I've had metallics separate out like that (the starter set had over a half dozen paints plus some crap brushes) but not the normal colors. Yeah, normal shaking just doesn't do the job when you get to the point of sludge on the bottom and I usually have to take a toothpick and stir for a while between shakes to get something thicker and less transparent than skim milk.

To the OP, if you aren't cleaning up with solvent you aren't using enamels. It would be near impossible for you not to know if you are using water or not ;->

Nothing wrong with oil-based paints in theory but in practice most people want to avoid having to use solvents like the plague. "Figure" painters use oils for the perfect blends and LOOOOONG open time, as has been mentioned above, but most will spend a year painting one model. Different set of priorities. I learned to paint with oils and Shep Paine books and I don't miss it one bit.