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Got a load of grey knights with P3 Black Primer that were over done. What is the bet way to strip these suckers down. Also, I can tell they were done in high humidity by the grainy texture. How can I solve this problem!? Thanks.

"LA Awesome" it's a cleaner you can find at Dollar General's or usually other dollar stores. Won't hurt the models can be left in for days, just wear gloves when you scrub them down as it will super dry your hands out.

+1 for LA's Totally Awesome. It's available at Dollar Tree in the household cleaning products aisle. Probably other dollar stores too. Let the minis soak in the LATA for 24hrs+, then put on your gloves, grab an old toothbrush and go to town. Rinse the minis when you are done scrubbing. If there's still some paint left, drop them back in the soak. I've used this on dozens of second-hand minis.

There's a longish thread that talks about LATA here:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/365067.page

I use a mix of Simple Green and Windex, both the concentrates. Then a stiff bristle brush and a tooth brush.

I have also used 1500-2000 grit wet/dry sand paper, applies very lightly, to get rid of grain and hair left on the surface of models after priming.

Just be slow and careful with wet sanding figs as I have gotten rid of small details in the past.

Isopropyl Alcohol, 99%.
Really.
I've tried a lot of different stuff, but it's just good.
Works very fast, even with primers. But doesn't harm the mini if you let it soak in it for days.
Doesn't smell that bad
It's not a chem bomb.
It's the main incredient of 99% of every other stuff used for stripping.

Alright, with the simple green I'm noticing it is working, but not as effective as I imagined. Lots of scrubbing for not a lot of results. The minis have been submerged for two nights and one day. So at least 32+ hours. Is this the type of progress for simple green? Would isopropyl give me more quicker? Thanks!


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I hear you LA Awesome guys! However, I'm not very close to dollar stores!!! Will drive out if my house hold simple green or iso doesn't solve this!!! Thanks everyone. This is a Biatch.

Knallfix wrote:
Isopropyl Alcohol, 99%.
Really.
I've tried a lot of different stuff, but it's just good.
Works very fast, even with primers. But doesn't harm the mini if you let it soak in it for days.
Doesn't smell that bad
It's not a chem bomb.
It's the main incredient of 99% of every other stuff used for stripping.

How many days?

Last summer, I tried to soak a nob in 90% isopropyl alcohol, and 2 days later, there was virtually no paint removed.

99% will start stripping layers off in an hour, a few days will get pretty much everything off.

I can't talk for 90%, but if a few days has done nothing, that doesn't sound right at all

well just to mention, I had some models off ebay and they were in simple green for *weeks* without all the paint and primer coming off. They were very badly painted, very thickly - might not even have been acrylics hard to tell (they were pretty old).

I scrubbed a good bit, scrapped more and finally just re-primed over their remaining paint.

Not saying it's the only way - or even the best - but it worked for me.

I am currently soaking 5 in LA Awesome. The simple Green wasn't taking the primer off as effective as I wanted. Iso is next if the LATA isn't working. I need this primer off so I can get a decent base coat on!!!!

Hope you don't mind me piggybacking with another question. Has anyone tried these on boardgame plastics like zombicide or Mars attacks? My primer f'd up some Mars attacks figures, and I haven't checked to see if it would damage the softer plastic. I've had figures in simple green for over a year before with no damage.

Iso doesn't play well with resin, that's about as much as i can help with if it isn't gw plastic

kb_lock wrote:
99% will start stripping layers off in an hour, a few days will get pretty much everything off.

I can't talk for 90%, but if a few days has done nothing, that doesn't sound right at all

Well, some thin layers of paint had come off, but I was hoping to get the super-thick primer off.

The primer is beginning to come off with LATA after about 12 hours. It takes a good scrubbing though, so may need to be patient for a full 24 hours. Will let you know. Looks like no detail work or the model has been effected. Looks good. Hoping this will work!!


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Possibly Rip Fine cast.... The plastic is a general slow scrub with lots of primer coming off. The Fine Cast can't tell if the model is melting or if all the primer is just coming off. Will let you know soon.

Sorry to hijack this thread, but does anyone know if any Winsor Newton varnish removers are acetone based? Planning to stripe some metals in the near future and there's 2 large art supply stores with various WN removers and I'd like an acetone based one to really get the job done fast.

Here is a good guide on striping and I would use Power Clean It will really strip the paint off.




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Theophony wrote:Hope you don't mind me piggybacking with another question. Has anyone tried these on boardgame plastics like zombicide or Mars attacks? My primer f'd up some Mars attacks figures, and I haven't checked to see if it would damage the softer plastic. I've had figures in simple green for over a year before with no damage.

I would saw if you are trying stuff that is untested I would get a small piece of plasic of either the model or find something like the sprue it came off of and test it. I had a guy at one of my old clubs try to use gasoline and it basically melted a Lemen russ battle tanks like it was hit with a beam weapon. I mean it looked cool but ya not a good day for him.

Deadshot wrote:Sorry to hijack this thread, but does anyone know if any Winsor Newton varnish removers are acetone based? Planning to stripe some metals in the near future and there's 2 large art supply stores with various WN removers and I'd like an acetone based one to really get the job done fast.

I would say try super clean it is cheap and with the models being metal it will never hurt them.