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Alright guys, I feel like doing a sorcerer and could need the "pressure" to actually get stuff done.
Here's my proof picture, hope it's not to late to enter yet.

any words of advice or feedback for a rookie painter on the dreadnought I submitted on the bottom of page 6?

I know its not as dark grim as other folks stuff, but im going w a fresh paintjob look to imply pride in colours.

ssisal wrote:
any words of advice or feedback for a rookie painter on the dreadnought I submitted on the bottom of page 6?

I know its not as dark grim as other folks stuff, but im going w a fresh paintjob look to imply pride in colours.

It’s hard to get a good look due to the pictures, unfortunately. I’d set him on a curved piece of paper, with as much light as you can muster (but not a flash). Brace your camera to avoid shakes. Don’t be afraid to snap a zillion pictures and just take the best. It’s not like we pay to develop film these days.

The silver could use a wash. Black/brown depending on the look you are going for. (I go black personally)
Golds do well with a brown wash, then a drybrush back with the gold. Gives it a nice, warm depth for very little work and only basic techniques.
It looks like you might need a little cleanup on the gold trim on the torso. Hard to tell with the pic though.

But overall a solid work. It looks like you mostly kept the paint where it belongs, picked out all the details, etc. A little wash/drybrush work would help define the detail a little bit more, and both of those are easy to learn techniques.

well, I would LOVE to say that I've done a lot to mine (to be fair I've done quite a bit) but I just can't stop working on the masses of infantry that I need to deal with Hopefully an update pic by the end of the day today

 Nevelon wrote:

ssisal wrote:
any words of advice or feedback for a rookie painter on the dreadnought I submitted on the bottom of page 6?

I know its not as dark grim as other folks stuff, but im going w a fresh paintjob look to imply pride in colours.

It’s hard to get a good look due to the pictures, unfortunately. I’d set him on a curved piece of paper, with as much light as you can muster (but not a flash). Brace your camera to avoid shakes. Don’t be afraid to snap a zillion pictures and just take the best. It’s not like we pay to develop film these days.

The silver could use a wash. Black/brown depending on the look you are going for. (I go black personally)
Golds do well with a brown wash, then a drybrush back with the gold. Gives it a nice, warm depth for very little work and only basic techniques.
It looks like you might need a little cleanup on the gold trim on the torso. Hard to tell with the pic though.

But overall a solid work. It looks like you mostly kept the paint where it belongs, picked out all the details, etc. A little wash/drybrush work would help define the detail a little bit more, and both of those are easy to learn techniques.

This.

The intensity of the light makes it really hard to see the colours.
If you use something to difuse the light, the pictures would be great. A piece of paper in front of the light would do the job. Alternatively, you can take a picture in the daylight.

In terms of the painting, what Nev said. What colours are the plasma coils? I can't really see, but I think it's green(?). It might be worth doing it another colour so it 'pops' against the green dread.

Proof post. (Wait for it)

Edit: it looks like his bayonet is actually painted. it isn't; it's just reflecting my luminous hoodie.

Wip update!

 Buttery Commissar wrote:
Proof post. (Wait for it)

Edit: it looks like his bayonet is actually painted. it isn't; it's just reflecting my luminous hoodie.

If you do a wip you should put this pic in the background

 optometris wrote:

 Buttery Commissar wrote:
Proof post. (Wait for it)

Edit: it looks like his bayonet is actually painted. it isn't; it's just reflecting my luminous hoodie.

If you do a wip you should put this pic in the background

yes, keep the chain going, you're final MUST be at least 5 layers deep

 optometris wrote:

 Buttery Commissar wrote:
Proof post. (Wait for it)

Edit: it looks like his bayonet is actually painted. it isn't; it's just reflecting my luminous hoodie.

If you do a wip you should put this pic in the background

I may struggle, it's a pretty dark paintjob.

nevelon.
trying pitures in sun light these look the same to me. but maybe tis better for you all.

never done a wash, assume can find tutorial on youtube.
blackwash for silver.
brown wash for gold.

drybrush after to bring the color back to bright of paint colors.

zambo.
I figured brigter light would work best. I do all my painting after dark with either blue or green or white lights overhead. ill remember sunlight for pictures.

the plasma coils are two layers of decoart mithril silver, three layers decort of crystal green, then a four layers each of a trio of blends of folkart calypso sky + americana neon scorching yellow , final layer is americana glow in the dark(dryes clear)




Automatically Appended Next Post:
Daylight photos hope they work better.
The chest thing is upside down, because he used to fly upsides down all the time. I have a fully painted pilot arms and torso and beat inside to represent him.

I remember discovering washing models.
Ssisal it will change the job competely. It will revolutionise your painting. You will never not wash after discovering wash.
I would recommend an older model, not your beautiful dread. Wash it competely with black or brown wash, recommend black. Wash should not need watering down but you can use a bit. Once you start cover 100% of the model in wash, then dont touch it till its completely dry. If you touch partially dry wash its usually a disaster.
Then once its dry as nev says drybrush the origional colour or metal back.
It will bring contrast and define your model.
Im a huge fan of washing. Give it a try on an old, painted model and see how you go.

ssisal wrote:
nevelon.
trying pitures in sun light these look the same to me. but maybe tis better for you all.

never done a wash, assume can find tutorial on youtube.
blackwash for silver.
brown wash for gold.

drybrush after to bring the color back to bright of paint colors.

zambo.
I figured brigter light would work best. I do all my painting after dark with either blue or green or white lights overhead. ill remember sunlight for pictures.

the plasma coils are two layers of decoart mithril silver, three layers decort of crystal green, then a four layers each of a trio of blends of folkart calypso sky + americana neon scorching yellow , final layer is americana glow in the dark(dryes clear)




Automatically Appended Next Post:
Daylight photos hope they work better.
The chest thing is upside down, because he used to fly upsides down all the time. I have a fully painted pilot arms and torso and beat inside to represent him.

 Moolet wrote:

 sockwithaticket wrote:
The only critique I'd offer maybe shade the white a little more subtly?I'm not a fan of blacklining white, though (anymore, used to do it all the time), but that's a taste thing so ymmv.

thanks, I think the same but I'm very inexperienced in this area. Your last couple of entries had gorgeous whites on this, can I ask how you achieve this? How would you go about smoothing it out. I was thinking of adding a few very thin glazes.washes (nuln+lamian medium 25:75, perhaps throw in a little blue too) then clean it up first with some greys building to almost white. I'd love to hear how you'd paint it.

Cheers, man. It's nothing much to be honest. I make sure the white is down solid before doing any shading, then I'll go and put 70:30 valley game colour stonewall grey : vgc ghosty grey in the recess and layer up to pure ghosty grey, then layer from ghosty back to pure vallejo model colour white. The main thing is patience and super thin layers. That said, for things like a winged shoulder pad that method is way too fiddly and you don't really have the room to do it properly anyway, which is why whatever deity there is caused vallejo to make a pale grey wash. Add a touch of white, a bit of matte medium and apply thin coats to taste before highlighting with white. Works a charm.

Now as i've had a set back with one of my sorcerers and don't feel like doing the other, will someone who fixes relics count?

I don't see why not!

I'm in, with my Deathwing.

I'm finished and will be posting final pics today or tomorrow

@Buttery I'm laughing more at your WIP picture than I should... plus the 13 posts in the couple of hours between you posting the OP and editing it... haha

Hey guys,

had some time to paint today.
My "Relic" isn't finished yet but nearly there.

WIP:

 Guildenstern wrote:
@Buttery I'm laughing more at your WIP picture than I should... plus the 13 posts in the couple of hours between you posting the OP and editing it... haha

Because Yarrick was in last month's but only got his face did, I wanted to show there wasn't any monkey business. I'm not cultured enough to have the day's paper.

I'm forcing myself to do the base carefully at the moment. Painted that ork flesh and highlights four times now... not that it even shows in the photo.

Just a little progress report to show I’m still alive and in this. Sloppy basecoats down.

Ok so finished my warsmith who quite likely maintains infernal relics, which is probably like taming lions.






pva is still wet though as i need to take him else where.

Doubt I'm gonna finish the thanatar this month. May have to substitute a tech-priest in instead

Thats loser talk Januine. You can do it!

 Januine wrote:
Doubt I'm gonna finish the thanatar this month. May have to substitute a tech-priest in instead

*Cracks whip*

Get back in there and paint that thing!

Seriously, if anyone can do that model justice in a short time, its you Januine! We believe in you!

Cheers folks but really taking my time with the fella. Lots n lots I want to include. We'll see

Finally settled on what I am going to do. Here's my proof

 sockwithaticket wrote:

 Moolet wrote:

 sockwithaticket wrote:
The only critique I'd offer maybe shade the white a little more subtly?I'm not a fan of blacklining white, though (anymore, used to do it all the time), but that's a taste thing so ymmv.

thanks, I think the same but I'm very inexperienced in this area. Your last couple of entries had gorgeous whites on this, can I ask how you achieve this? How would you go about smoothing it out. I was thinking of adding a few very thin glazes.washes (nuln+lamian medium 25:75, perhaps throw in a little blue too) then clean it up first with some greys building to almost white. I'd love to hear how you'd paint it.

Cheers, man. It's nothing much to be honest. I make sure the white is down solid before doing any shading, then I'll go and put 70:30 valley game colour stonewall grey : vgc ghosty grey in the recess and layer up to pure ghosty grey, then layer from ghosty back to pure vallejo model colour white. The main thing is patience and super thin layers. That said, for things like a winged shoulder pad that method is way too fiddly and you don't really have the room to do it properly anyway, which is why whatever deity there is caused vallejo to make a pale grey wash. Add a touch of white, a bit of matte medium and apply thin coats to taste before highlighting with white. Works a charm.

Thanks, for the tips I'll try something similar. I've 10 death company to do in the next couple of months so getting it right is pretty important for me.

I've not got those particular paints but I'll try to convert it across to GWs line, or would you say they are not equivalent? If so perhaps its time for me to invest in some new brands. =) Thanks again for the advice.

@methebest: the warsmith looks great.. very gritty!

I remember discovering washing models.
Ssisal it will change the job competely. It will revolutionise your painting. You will never not wash after discovering wash.

This. It really does help theres a reason people call it talent in a bottle/pot. It adds a lovely level of contrast. On my orks, if its a quick job I just basecoat their clothes then a carefully placed wash and its so much better than just a base coat. With a nice piece like your dreadnaught. You can either clean-up after the wash with a drybrush.. very good for metallic but I find not so nice for most other colours (dependent on the effect you want) or just tidy up all the most prominent surfaces with your base colour. This is more time consuming I find but if done carefully and with a bit of though this alone makes the model quite striking. For added definition of the all the details add an edge highlight (a lighter tone of your base, or your base colour with a little white added) and you'll have a great looking model.

never done a wash, assume can find tutorial on youtube.
blackwash for silver.
brown wash for gold.

My favourite way to do steel type metals is base in a dark silver (lead belcher), then wash first black quite heavily, then once completely dry brown (I use nuln oil and agrax earthsahde). The metal will look really gunked up. Then do a light drybrush of the leadbelcher again and any really worn or scratch areas use a little rune fang steel as an edge highlight. The more of the leadbelcher you drybrush back on the more new your steel will look. So for orks I do it very lightly, just the edge really, marines a little more heavily.

 Moolet wrote:

 sockwithaticket wrote:

 Moolet wrote:

 sockwithaticket wrote:
The only critique I'd offer maybe shade the white a little more subtly?I'm not a fan of blacklining white, though (anymore, used to do it all the time), but that's a taste thing so ymmv.

thanks, I think the same but I'm very inexperienced in this area. Your last couple of entries had gorgeous whites on this, can I ask how you achieve this? How would you go about smoothing it out. I was thinking of adding a few very thin glazes.washes (nuln+lamian medium 25:75, perhaps throw in a little blue too) then clean it up first with some greys building to almost white. I'd love to hear how you'd paint it.

Cheers, man. It's nothing much to be honest. I make sure the white is down solid before doing any shading, then I'll go and put 70:30 valley game colour stonewall grey : vgc ghosty grey in the recess and layer up to pure ghosty grey, then layer from ghosty back to pure vallejo model colour white. The main thing is patience and super thin layers. That said, for things like a winged shoulder pad that method is way too fiddly and you don't really have the room to do it properly anyway, which is why whatever deity there is caused vallejo to make a pale grey wash. Add a touch of white, a bit of matte medium and apply thin coats to taste before highlighting with white. Works a charm.

Thanks, for the tips I'll try something similar. I've 10 death company to do in the next couple of months so getting it right is pretty important for me.

I've not got those particular paints but I'll try to convert it across to GWs line, or would you say they are not equivalent? If so perhaps its time for me to invest in some new brands. =) Thanks again for the advice.

Couldn't say to be honest, I've barely any familiarity with the current generation of GW paints. I'm a strong advocate of having ghosty grey in your paint rack, though. It's great for adding to stuff tp make vibrant highlights that aren't quite as strong as if you'd used white, but less muted than if you'd used a bone colour. Given how pale it is it covers really well over dark colours in my experience which makes it a useful base coat option.

If washing makes everything so dark (i dont have ink.. ill pick up some brown/black at game store when i go pick up my order this weekend)

Im a little worried. I want all of my weapons and men and vehicles too to look like their armor was newly painted, not dingy and battle worn. Pride in Colours is very much a thing for these guys.. so i dont want to wash all the color out. Ill try it on a tactical bolter guy this weekend.