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...and when to use each?

i don't mess with citadel glue. it shouldnt matter though. i believe the thin glue melt/bonds plastic? my problem with it was if for WHATVER reason you got some on a part you didnt want no matter how small the amount it melted the area a bit.

i use insta cure + the purple bottle for everything. metal resin plastic. it should be similar to the gw "thick" glue but i found it superior

They both work the same. Thick is meant for large contact points like scenery or tanks, when you push the pieces together, the thicker gel spreads out and gives a more secure bond.

eosgreen wrote:
i don't mess with citadel glue. it shouldnt matter though. i believe the thin glue melt/bonds plastic? my problem with it was if for WHATVER reason you got some on a part you didnt want no matter how small the amount it melted the area a bit.

i use insta cure + the purple bottle for everything. metal resin plastic. it should be similar to the gw "thick" glue but i found it superior

Same here. I don't remember the name of the glue off the top of my head, but it's in a blue tube, and is $2.29 from my local Hobby Lobby. It melts the plastic and fuses it together. Smells like citrus, though. Especially when you use a lot of it.

 KaptinBadrukk wrote:

eosgreen wrote:
i don't mess with citadel glue. it shouldnt matter though. i believe the thin glue melt/bonds plastic? my problem with it was if for WHATVER reason you got some on a part you didnt want no matter how small the amount it melted the area a bit.

i use insta cure + the purple bottle for everything. metal resin plastic. it should be similar to the gw "thick" glue but i found it superior

Same here. I don't remember the name of the glue off the top of my head, but it's in a blue tube, and is $2.29 from my local Hobby Lobby. It melts the plastic and fuses it together. Smells like citrus, though. Especially when you use a lot of it.

Sounds like Testors Plastic Cement. :p

Isnt the thick and thin just 2 different nozzles?

The thin glue is a glue that you don't want to buy because you can find something better for cheaper from a different source, while the thick glue is a glue that you don't want to buy because you can find something better for cheaper from a different source.

I didn't think GW still made thin and thick glue? The was the thin and thick plastic glue, yeah?

 Chapter Master Angelos wrote:

 KaptinBadrukk wrote:

eosgreen wrote:
i don't mess with citadel glue. it shouldnt matter though. i believe the thin glue melt/bonds plastic? my problem with it was if for WHATVER reason you got some on a part you didnt want no matter how small the amount it melted the area a bit.

i use insta cure + the purple bottle for everything. metal resin plastic. it should be similar to the gw "thick" glue but i found it superior

Same here. I don't remember the name of the glue off the top of my head, but it's in a blue tube, and is $2.29 from my local Hobby Lobby. It melts the plastic and fuses it together. Smells like citrus, though. Especially when you use a lot of it.

Sounds like Testors Plastic Cement. :p

Yeah, that's what I think it is. Do you use Testors plastic cement?

Seems to be a lot of confusion misunderstanding ITT.

Basically, for most kits, one will use one of two or three different types of glue, with a different application for each.

Cyanoacrylate

Otherwise known as super glue. This is available in various concentrations (judging by the varied results people achieve with different brands) and viscosities, from near water to a thick gel. It can also be combined with an accelerant to make curing and bonding almost instant.

As has been mentioned, rule of thumb is the larger the join, the thicker the glue is best to use. Thicker glue is also useful if you're attaching two surfaces that have small irregularities as it helps pad out any small air gaps. Thicker glue also tends to cure more slowly (without accelerant) which is handy if you need time to adjust the fit of components.

Thinner glue is appropriate in the reverse situations, it is best used on smaller joins where you need a much quicker cure and subsequent bond.

I tend to favour thicker viscosities for most jobs, because I find it more controllable, and have found accelerants tend to cause a more brittle bond than glue left to cure naturally, so only use one if strictly necessary.

CA glue can be used on any material commonly used in modeling, although the stress of some large joins (Titans, very large metal kits) can expose the drawbacks (the join is brittle and can often be damaged with relatively little force.)

Polystyrene Cement

Otherwise known as plastic glue. Again, available in various viscosities, although only two really IME, and for our purposes poly cement is good at one thing and one thing only. It is actually a solvent for attaching polystyrene based plastic to itself. It only has use on HIPs kits, what is often referred to as "hard plastic" GW and others use, instead of the "restic" type plastic that the likes of PP and Mantic sometimes employ. If the assembly instructions on a plastic kit specifically state to use CA glue, then it isn't polystyrene based.

The big advantage of PC is that it essentially welds the parts together, forming a strong bond, while still allowing a certain amount of working time for adjustments (again, thinner glues tend to cure quicker.) The drawbacks are that excessively applied or accidentally transferred to parts of the model not intended to be glued, the cement will actually melt and damage the model, spoiling the finished result, and that once applied properly, the bond can be so strong as to be impossible to break, whereas there are tricks to break a CA glue bond if necessary (arm/weapons swaps etc,.)

Epoxy

The nuclear option. A 2 part adhesive that starts to go off once mixed, epoxies form an incredibly strong bond, but often have a very long cure time, sometimes necessitating rigs to hold the pieces in position. I personally have never assembled a model I felt needed it, but I've yet to build a Titan...

All Purpose

Probably best known as UHU in the Uk, very useful for drool and blood effects (it dries stringy) and for attaching canopies etc, where other glues may cause fogging of the clear plastic.

PVA

White glue, elmers glue, wood glue. Most often used for attaching basing materials, I've even heard of it being used as a glaze medium because it dries clear.

Hope this helps!