Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

interesting,

it could be I just had a bad tube as well I suppose

I tend to just try to use it all up at once now when I do use it lol

Yeah I know I should have used a screw, easier to get them out for one thing =/ but didn't have one to hand

anyway good information!

Hoping to have some work done, at least in planning stages, on my project this coming week. Need to get #2 son off to Philmont (boyscout camp thing) then I can start serious work ^_^

slightly unrelated to this, but related to terrain:

thinking about using MDF as a base for a larger board, due to lower cost. I have some 1X2's (boards) I'm going to use as a frame, but I'm wondering - do you think I should seal the MDF before starting to flock it etc? And would primer be good enough as a sealant in this regard? I don't normally use MDF directly for the terrain, even when I do use it as a base, I usually have something else on top.

Sealing it with a 50/50 mix of water /PVA is best option, it will soak up anything you put on it basically. Though I have heard of good results with Plastikote primer.

i hope this works will be the base of thoughts

PVA is the general method. I've been experimenting with plastikote primer as cam mentioned, it does seem to work well though whether it saves time is another matter.

Hey guys, I'm fairly new to the blog but I'd love to hop in on the contest if I could. It seems like a ton of fun and you guys seem like a great crowd to work and get better with! Do I have to do anything besides post here to enter?

Welcome SpinteredShield, and that's you in.
Good luck.

All are welcome, and all have equal chance, regardless of experience and ability. We want you all...............to have fun that is, and start riveting.

@Dr H - if the container isn't compromised and there is an inherently watertight and airtight plug if cured ailicone, then how does the rest cure? Were you saying that contact with the cured was enough to catalyze the rest? Or maybe one of my premises is wrong haha.

@guildenstern I've only tried PVA + water but, like you said, there's usually something else on top of it..I'd be interested to hear if you come up with a better alternative!

@splinteredshield welcome! Would love to see what you are scheming for this - be sure to post lots of WiP photos!

The plan for 'harbour town' (unless I think of a better name!). This is to fit in with my other necromunda terrain (http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/692306.page ). I have just finished putting about a metre of wire into the cork to pin it stable!

I am terrified about the idea of pouring resin in, its going to be such a late stage in the piece it could all go so badly wrong!

 TerrainWalker wrote:
@Dr H - if the container isn't compromised and there is an inherently watertight and airtight plug if cured ailicone, then how does the rest cure? Were you saying that contact with the cured was enough to catalyze the rest? Or maybe one of my premises is wrong haha.

Yes, that is what I meant. From what I looked over in Wikipedia, the water starts the reaction by hydrolysing the first part of the silicone and this leaves an -OH group "spare" on that, which can then react with the next bit of silicone to form a cross-link between the polymer chains, which again has a "spare" -OH group on the end that reacts with the next bit, and so on in a chain reaction.

The more water there is available, the more cross-links start to form and the quicker the curing happens.
Only contact with a hydrolysing group, water (H₂O) or a spare -OH on the cured silicone, will continue the reaction.

From what I can tell.
And other silicone varieties react in different ways.

Ah that makes sense. So the byproduct of the "cure" process is the catalyst for the next bit and so on. Thanks for the explanation!

Alright thanks so much for having me guys! I'm working up preliminary sketches right now, it's super ambitious but my hope is to be able to scale back if it ends up being too much work. This is my first time working with water effects, and I'm looking to use pouring medium to create the water. I know it'll take weeks to fully dry, but it should be clear enough for photos by project end and it'll fully cure looking great. Has anyone else used it or have better recommendations if it's not a good way to go?

@wtnind - If you take it slow and do shallow layers, you'll be ok =D it's not as bad as it sounds. Also, you win the thread cuz nuka cola ^_^

@SplinteredShield - Don't be afraid to be ambitious! I've found it keeps you involved in most projects longer, as they're more interesting, you learn more, and just overall have a better project at the end. Yes, you can bite off more than you can chew, but unless you push yourself you don't learn anything. All the projects I've done in my life I've found this to be true! Besides panick is a major leading component of inspiration ^_^ lol But seriously, be sure and ask if you need help, t here's really a lot of great guys here who know a lot and can probably come up with a solution if you get stuck

I may have to switch over to 'overcomplicated foundry' honestly. I don't think I could really get myself to do something as 'boring' as a simple sewer scene. Got the day off work tomorrow, so I think I'll try to get started on it either way.

Loving the ideas here gang. Also, science!

Alright so here's my super rough sketch up of what I'm thinking. The basic premise will be a group of marines unwittingly releases the spring, activating ancient mechanisms that awaken the Necron tomb below. The waterfall is based around one in Rocky Mountain National Park, and I'm thinking between 12 and 18" tall. If I'm feeling like really pushing my comfort zone, I would love to run LEDs into the insignia on the rock face but I've also never worked with interior LEDs though I have some soldering experience. So yeah that's it so far, I'm hoping I can start actually sculpting in a couple weeks and get really rolling.

I don't think any of us are going to do well in the "size bonus category"...

Maybe I'll make mine elevated on crazy stilts and base it on a CD... hahaha

still thinking up an idea. but i am plannin on making something.

Edit: For rule 11. Build it on a single CD. I just might be able to do that. And ive got tons of the stuff the figures were attached to. Im getting a while hair up my tailpipe. I have one question.

Does the CD have to be in one piece? Can i cut it up and separate the parts of it with air? As long as my entire base is one CD?

Wait, Size bonus? Oh... smallness.

Yep, not gonna get that, I think. Well, maybe. I got ideas for smaller 'objective marker' test pieces.

@anvildude oh man! I just built some "liquidy" objective markers...should have thought of that

I actually just finished a package of Cherub grape tomatoes, and realized that the packaging plastic is the perfect shape to form a little slag mound or small volcanic cone- so that'll be my first/practice run- I think my big job here is going to be in the painting, rather than the sculpting.

@ssisal, I guess that would kind of fit. CD is a size guide, does not have to be a CD. But if in the end your multiple pieces can sit on a cd your getting the bonus. And I think your talking about spru and that could get you even more bonus points.

I'm in, on principal at least

Got some more work done on harbour town, its all a bit too jolly in the colours at the moment though, think I need to dull it down a little.

@wtnind Inks and washes!

Im still looking at a cd all broken down into components.. a ton of spru, a jumbo box of straws, 6 empty waterbottles, tons of rocks from the train track behind the house, and a few cardboard boxes that the various models came in.

Im thinking maybe a pump station or sorts, with the bottles to hold the fluid. its not going to be water. im thinking maybe a lava refinery of sorts.

That sounds very impressive and big! I might struggle to push that into the "Small" catergory, though I am willing to be impressed.

@wtnind that is looking brilliant bud, really great stuff.

RULE #6 GO BIG OR GO HOME

Well I spent a few hours yesterday cleaning the basement finally. It's been almost 6 months if not longer since we had water damage down there and my stuff got flung all over. Between being a bit tired of painting zombies and having an itch to scratch(build), I think I've decided to join the competition.

So some of the pieces I have for this have been shown in my blog before and I had this idea a long time back, now I just need to modify it a little to include actual liquid showing. Anyway onto the parts.

First and foremost, most of the parts are recycled parts from work, work around the house and old project.

Item one is recycled out of the trash from the hospital I work at. They are shipping clamps that pop around the neck of newborn infant baby bottles. I found a couple about two years ago and had no idea where they came from, but now I figured it out and have snagged 8 of these babies .

The clamp parts (4 of them) fit 1" PVC pipe, and the space between the clamps on two sides can also accomadate a 1/2" O.D. pipe.

The next item is a packing part that goes inside of plastic window shutters. I salvaged about 20 of these when I put shutters on my house 2 years ago. I've used it on other projects, but now they will be a fixture on this project.

They stand 6" tall roughly and will support the structure I have planned.

Oh and a rough mock up of the main part of this project.


size comparison with some necromunda bulkheads.

The dark grey tube between the large white pvc pipes is just a place holder, it's the only piece I had that would fit it right now. It will most likely get removed all together, or be replaced with some wooden dowel rod.

size comparison with a dreamforge leviathan, a forgeworld dreadnought and a space marine for scale.


I really am going to try and make this a focal point on my table that I want to build, so we will see exactly how this turns out. also I need to figure out how the water effect will be shown. I think I'll create a saddle bracket to mount to one of the pipes and have it drop down to the ground and then have smaller pipes coming off of that. maybe with a broken smaller pipe to have the water come out of it.

Fantastic to see you in Theo. Indeed several more of you. Will update op later to reflect your joining.

Great to see some amazing WIP shots guys. Keep it coming.

Well picked up one of 2 boxes of secret weapon tablescapes clean urban tiles today.

Miniature market.com had them on clearance for 40% off ($51.40 after tax for me per box) instead of $79.99. These will become the base for my gaming table and at least 1 square(probably 2) will be the base for this competition for me (2square feet)

for once i have to beg to differ theo...i´m not going big for this time...but i totally dig what you´re up to there... looks highly promising!


speaking of... this is my entry...heavy WIP tho...

its title is...:" we call it water, but..."

here is the first footage...









currently all is made from wood, cardboard and cork...later on a wee bit of plastic will join the party and PVA...

hope you´ll like and looking forward to all your other entries!


cheers, vik