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So I bought a pack of https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-US/Telerac-Pattern-Volkite-Culverins-Set and I'm wondering what's the best way to make the power cable pliable enough to run from the back pack to the gun.

Hot water would be the way to go, get some in a container and dip them in.

How hot? Like as hot as you can go in the faucet or should I bust out an old school kettle?

I use water from a electric jug.

Crazy Jay wrote:
How hot? Like as hot as you can go in the faucet or should I bust out an old school kettle?

Hot tap water should work. The parts are small enough that they'll get pliable with that. Just let the sink run for a couple of minutes, fill up a bowl/glass, dip the piece for a few moments, and make sure you work quickly when you reshape. It'll cool and set fairly fast. I also recommend a pair of needle nose pliers or some calipers to hold it in the water. I don't know about you, but my hot tap water is around 200 degrees F.

Hot as the tap water can go then bend it into the right shape and run it under cold water to make the resin hard again.

Just use a hair dryer way better then hot water.

Also do not use hot water then bend then cold water. As a man who lives in a climate of hot/cold constantly it makes things weak and very breakable.

Crazy Jay wrote:
How hot? Like as hot as you can go in the faucet or should I bust out an old school kettle?

Boiling hot. I have no idea how people manage to bend resin parts with tap water, when I tried it the parts never got anywhere near soft enough to fix.

OgreChubbs wrote:
Also do not use hot water then bend then cold water. As a man who lives in a climate of hot/cold constantly it makes things weak and very breakable.

Strongly disagree with this advice. If you don't use cold water once the part is fixed the inner parts of the resin can stay soft too long and the part can start to warp again. It's very frustrating to spend a bunch of time fixing something and then have to do it all over again a few minutes later. But if you put it in cold water immediately it cools the whole piece and sets it in its final position. And I have never had any problems at all with parts being too fragile after this is done.

I was also going to chip in with the cold quench as being a necessary step; it's very frustrating to get everything bent into the correct shape and then watch it slowly bend back to where it came from when it cools.

Also I've had perfectly good results using the hot tap (faucet for you colonial types), but British hot water taps tend to run at 60-70oC (i.e. jus short of scalding!), which may be hotter than is normal elsewhere. I do usually find it necessary to actually have the item under the flow from the tap, not just in a bowl of hot water filled from the tap (the water cools too quickly once in the bowl.)