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Made in za
Jovial Plaguebearer of Nurgle





South Africa

Hi Guys

I just recently picked up an airbrush im an absolute beginner novice noob scrub and im having some issues with it. its an Iwata Neo and im sparaying about 3bar so like 45psi. I feel thats all fine im using citadel paints which i think could be the problem and im thinning them with Ultimate airbrush thinner about 60% thinner to paint according to their site this is correct but im not 100%.

Im trying to paint onto black primed models and i either get the paint where its so watery and pools up and also barely tints the model that colour or if i use less thinner it almost immediately (like a second) jams up my brush and no paint comes out.

In the last week ive spent more time cleaning the damn thing than actually painting with it, Im also pretty sure i haven't damaged the needle or nozzle but its not impossible that i could have. I was so keen to have an airbrush and paint pretty things but now im getting so bummed out by it.

Please help me

Ub

Facts are chains that bind perception and fetter truth. For a man can remake the world if he has a dream and no facts to cloud his mind. 
   
Made in de
Mysterious Techpriest






45 psi is pretty rough.
Usually people prefer to go between 15-25 psi.

Citadel base colours need a good bit of thinning, true.
Airbrush is no different from hair brush - multiple layers.
If it pools you did spray too much paint on it. Spray some on, wait 10 seconds (should nearly instantly dry when applied to the model anyway) then do a second and, if necessary, third coat.

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Made in za
Jovial Plaguebearer of Nurgle





South Africa

Thanks man ok cool Ill drop the pressure a bit i just thought that at higher pressure ill blast any clogging chunks out.

Facts are chains that bind perception and fetter truth. For a man can remake the world if he has a dream and no facts to cloud his mind. 
   
Made in gb
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Coventry

Yeah I would drop the pressure on the compressor: I go with sub 15psi on my Badger Patriot.

Perseverance is the key to airbrushing!
   
Made in fr
Longtime Dakkanaut




3 bars seems too high for anything but cleaning.

If your paint starts to flow once it's on the model (usually pooling in the recesses), it can come from a pressure that is too high, the airbrush too close to the model, a paint that is too thin, or spraying too much paint at once (you have a double action airbrush right?).

If your paint clogs the airbrush quickly, you usually need to thin it more. If after thinning enough it's pooling in the recesses/being blown away by the air, you need to lower the pressure, put less paint/more air (so pulling the trigger back a lot less), or even spray from a bit further away.

What are you trying to achieve? If it's a base coat (you want to spray the whole model just like you would do with a rattle can), I think you can keep a high pressure (like 1.5 bars), and spray the model from a good 20-30cm. Then you'll have to play with the thinning and how much paint you shoot.
Also, I've never airbrushed citadel paints, so there might be some subtleties I don't know about.
   
Made in us
Wrathful Warlord Titan Commander





Ramsden Heath, Essex

Firstly Airbrushing is more time cleaning/prepping than painting. Keep that in mind if you feel you are cleaning your AB too much.

Hitting the right consistency of paint can be tricky but it's a case of trial and error.

I've used GW paints before (the previous range) without issue but not the new one. I used car windscreen fluid as a thinner with decent effect and Tamiya X20, both at a 2:1 ration (paint/thinner).

As for clogging, probably dry tip. this just happen no matter what; so not user error. I keep a cotton bud with cleaner on it to clean the tip/needle every so often. Once you have finished a colour/session clean through the brush with cleaner.

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Made in fr
Fresh-Faced New User






1 to 2 bar and 1 to 2 drop of thinner every 8 drop of paints (10 to 20%)

I primed with a thick paint my army with no issue at all like that.

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Made in de
Focused Dark Angels Land Raider Pilot




Germany

also: light colors usually are quite transparent, therefore a black undercoat makes it difficult to get a strong color.
try a grey or even white undercoat for better results.
   
Made in us
Courageous Questing Knight





Texas

The consensus is right, drop your psi to no more than about 25. Also, my personal preference, I never shoot acrylics though my nice brushes - I only use enamels. The acrylics ratio of pigment, vehicle and carrier can make thinning down to flow through your brush a real problem at times. Enamels being spirit-based are much easier to smooth out. Although, you do get the VOC fumes! Also, when acrylics dry, you cannot clean out with the 'carrier', i.e. water. It dries like glue. Enamel paint even when dry can be cleaned with its carrier easily, i.e. paint thinner.

Just my preference to not use acrylics in my fine brushes - only enamels or airbrush inks. This is just how I roll and it makes my airbrushing easier. Plenty of people shoot acrylics fine with adding thinners, mediums, flow material, etc.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/02/02 20:02:43


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Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





 Ubl1k wrote:
Thanks man ok cool Ill drop the pressure a bit i just thought that at higher pressure ill blast any clogging chunks out.
Increasing pressure is the wrong approach to clogs, you might hold off the clogs slightly longer with a higher pressure but it'll still eventually clog and when it does it'll be harder to clear. More thinning, make sure the paint and thinner are properly mixed so you don't get thicker bits coming through and keeping the needle clean are important. Also make sure you clean out the nozzle and paint passage thoroughly after a painting session, if they have a build up you might still be able to spray but clogs will happen faster and more frequently.

If you're doing everything right and paint is still clogging you can try going up a nozzle size. I prime and basecoat with a 0.5mm or 0.7mm nozzle so that I don't have to thin as much and it doesn't jam up the airbrush as easily. I swap to a 0.3mm for detail work. I have a 0.2mm as well but don't like it for acrylics.

This message was edited 4 times. Last update was at 2017/02/02 20:38:55


 
   
Made in za
Jovial Plaguebearer of Nurgle





South Africa

Thanks guys i think all of your guidance is working I dropped it to 20psi and that made a huge difference. I think ill also grab a slightly bigger nozzle for the basecoating etc. so i dont worry too much about the clogging. you guys have made my life much easier hey. Like you guys said trial and error and lots of cleaning/prepping.

Thanks again

Facts are chains that bind perception and fetter truth. For a man can remake the world if he has a dream and no facts to cloud his mind. 
   
Made in bg
Storm Trooper with Maglight






I posted this in your threads before:
you spray acrylics at 20-25 PSI and get yourself Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver - you can run almost anything acrylic that is not designed for airbrush tru it,.
   
Made in za
Jovial Plaguebearer of Nurgle





South Africa

Problem is in South Africa its really a mission to get anything Vallejo or else i would use their paints to start with. Yeah i realised my pressure was way too high and dropped it down again.

Facts are chains that bind perception and fetter truth. For a man can remake the world if he has a dream and no facts to cloud his mind. 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka




MDSW wrote:The consensus is right, drop your psi to no more than about 25. Also, my personal preference, I never shoot acrylics though my nice brushes - I only use enamels. The acrylics ratio of pigment, vehicle and carrier can make thinning down to flow through your brush a real problem at times. Enamels being spirit-based are much easier to smooth out. Although, you do get the VOC fumes! Also, when acrylics dry, you cannot clean out with the 'carrier', i.e. water. It dries like glue. Enamel paint even when dry can be cleaned with its carrier easily, i.e. paint thinner.

Just my preference to not use acrylics in my fine brushes - only enamels or airbrush inks. This is just how I roll and it makes my airbrushing easier. Plenty of people shoot acrylics fine with adding thinners, mediums, flow material, etc.


Trying to understand here. I have memory issues so totally forget what is what. What is GW and Vallejo paint? Is it acrylic or enamel? Is acrylic and enamel water based or not? I am having issues with my air brush as well and just want to make sure I am reading correctly. I am using Vallejo paints and some Vallejo Air paints as well, and still having issues. Maybe my paint is just to dry now? Been sitting for over a year. Some are good, but yellows, whites and reds I can't really use very well at all.

Agies Grimm:The "Learn to play, bro" mentality is mostly just a way for someone to try to shame you by implying that their metaphorical nerd-wiener is bigger than yours. Which, ironically, I think nerds do even more vehemently than jocks.

Everything is made up and the points don't matter. 40K or Who's Line is it Anyway?

Auticus wrote: Or in summation: its ok to exploit shoddy points because those are rules and gamers exist to find rules loopholes (they are still "legal"), but if the same force can be composed without structure, it emotionally feels "wrong".  
   
Made in bg
Storm Trooper with Maglight






 Ubl1k wrote:
Problem is in South Africa its really a mission to get anything Vallejo or else i would use their paints to start with. Yeah i realised my pressure was way too high and dropped it down again.

I'm sorry to hear that mate :( Vallejo, apart from their primers that I loathe, are one of the best acrylics out there.
   
Made in za
Jovial Plaguebearer of Nurgle





South Africa

 DalinCriid wrote:
 Ubl1k wrote:
Problem is in South Africa its really a mission to get anything Vallejo or else i would use their paints to start with. Yeah i realised my pressure was way too high and dropped it down again.

I'm sorry to hear that mate :( Vallejo, apart from their primers that I loathe, are one of the best acrylics out there.


Yeah from what I've seen around they seem like everyone's number 1 pick, on that what primer do you use. Ive found the Rustoleum 2x rattle cans are pretty good ive used the black grey and an eggshell colour.

Facts are chains that bind perception and fetter truth. For a man can remake the world if he has a dream and no facts to cloud his mind. 
   
Made in bg
Storm Trooper with Maglight






 Ubl1k wrote:
 DalinCriid wrote:
 Ubl1k wrote:
Problem is in South Africa its really a mission to get anything Vallejo or else i would use their paints to start with. Yeah i realised my pressure was way too high and dropped it down again.

I'm sorry to hear that mate :( Vallejo, apart from their primers that I loathe, are one of the best acrylics out there.


Yeah from what I've seen around they seem like everyone's number 1 pick, on that what primer do you use. Ive found the Rustoleum 2x rattle cans are pretty good ive used the black grey and an eggshell colour.

I am priming with Mister Finishing Surfacer. It is winter here and this is the only I can prime. At summer I go to the basement and spray cans, because it is not turbo hot there.
   
Made in us
Stealthy Grot Snipa





Atlanta, GA

Davor wrote:
MDSW wrote:The consensus is right, drop your psi to no more than about 25. Also, my personal preference, I never shoot acrylics though my nice brushes - I only use enamels. The acrylics ratio of pigment, vehicle and carrier can make thinning down to flow through your brush a real problem at times. Enamels being spirit-based are much easier to smooth out. Although, you do get the VOC fumes! Also, when acrylics dry, you cannot clean out with the 'carrier', i.e. water. It dries like glue. Enamel paint even when dry can be cleaned with its carrier easily, i.e. paint thinner.

Just my preference to not use acrylics in my fine brushes - only enamels or airbrush inks. This is just how I roll and it makes my airbrushing easier. Plenty of people shoot acrylics fine with adding thinners, mediums, flow material, etc.


Trying to understand here. I have memory issues so totally forget what is what. What is GW and Vallejo paint? Is it acrylic or enamel? Is acrylic and enamel water based or not? I am having issues with my air brush as well and just want to make sure I am reading correctly. I am using Vallejo paints and some Vallejo Air paints as well, and still having issues. Maybe my paint is just to dry now? Been sitting for over a year. Some are good, but yellows, whites and reds I can't really use very well at all.


Games Workshop, Vallejo, P3, and Minitaire are all acrylics. I think that Reaper is also acrylic. On the P3 paint pots at least it says "Nontoxic waterborne acrylic paint".
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka




Thank you Mr. Grey.

Agies Grimm:The "Learn to play, bro" mentality is mostly just a way for someone to try to shame you by implying that their metaphorical nerd-wiener is bigger than yours. Which, ironically, I think nerds do even more vehemently than jocks.

Everything is made up and the points don't matter. 40K or Who's Line is it Anyway?

Auticus wrote: Or in summation: its ok to exploit shoddy points because those are rules and gamers exist to find rules loopholes (they are still "legal"), but if the same force can be composed without structure, it emotionally feels "wrong".  
   
 
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