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I found the Goliaths to involve some weird, and apparently kind of pointless joints. I thought the legs were in two pieces in some cases for running or other poses, but they're not (with one exception). They're all just kind of standing around. Maybe you get a little contraposto out of it I suppose.

Lack of convertibility is not a plus for me, but the overall quality mostly outweighs it so far.

 AegisGrimm wrote:

 AndrewGPaul wrote:
A good number of the videos in AegisGrimm's search list are all modern kits - Intercessors, Dark Eldar, Easy-to-build Marines, Genestealer Cultists, Blight Kings. If you're put off conerting because you might have to … cut bits off a model! then that's a shame, but it's still much easier to convert most GW models now than it was back in the "good old days" of the 1990s.

Even that video about Cadians doesn't quite help your argument - the conversion being shown has nothing to do with the ease of assembly of the kit, as it involves cutting off the lasgun and gluing on a plasma gun (after cutting more bits off that). The techniques in that video apply perfectly well to any Death Guard miniature too.

Wait..what videos are you talking about, Spanish Inquisition? (Not really sure if you are for or against me, but search-checking seems a bit wierd ??) Most of those things listed are not even for armies I own, other than maybe a passing thought of a skirmish-scale warband of all- Primaris marines to be truescale marines (I have been scouting out how I can best make them all unique poses, if I do), or using Genestealer Cultists as Delaque gangers/post apocalyptic RPG under-dweller bad guys. I have two kids, I waste a lot of time trolling online instead of modelling and painting nowadays.

I clicked your Youtube "convert" link, those were at the top. My viewing history is clearly different to yours.


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 kestral wrote:
I found the Goliaths to involve some weird, and apparently kind of pointless joints. I thought the legs were in two pieces in some cases for running or other poses, but they're not (with one exception). They're all just kind of standing around. Maybe you get a little contraposto out of it I suppose.

Lack of convertibility is not a plus for me, but the overall quality mostly outweighs it so far.

It's to get detail all round the leg without odd infills or lack of detail round the sides. Or possibly to avoid poor flow issues.


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 Grimtuff wrote:

 AndrewGPaul wrote:

The Pusgoyle Blightlords also seem to have at least six different heads in a box of two models, which helps.

Sorry, I was referring to the Blightlord Termies, not them (of which I didn't actually know were called that. Stupid GW...). Where you cannot even build a unit of 10 (there are if you count the ETB kit a grand total of 8 Blightlord models) before you start repeating yourself. It's like they never considered somebody would want multiple units of them.

YMMV, clearly. The arms are all separate, so between changing arms and painting the same models differently they'd work for me. Perhaps some head swaps, depending on what's in the bits box. Mind you, I built my first armies using metal models in the 1990s. I've still got plenty of Imperial Guard squads with two duplicated poses in each squad and only two different sergeants across the entire army. having to do a head- or weapon-swap on a miniature isn't something that registers as a problem. Especially not with a plastic one.

I'm still surprised GW has two part gun barrels on ALLOT of kits.
Come on GW it's practically 2019 and you're still doing something from the beginnings of model kits.
Even a small company like Rubicon does slide molding.

 Flinty wrote:
The new plastics are the best of both worlds though. The great poses you used to only get in metal, with the ease of.plastic to.make.changes. No longer do.you need a dremel to.do.a.decent conversion job of a character model.

Yeah. Just awesome GS skills to resculpt damage you caused cutting up monopose model


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 Da Boss wrote:
I dunno, my carnosaur can make:
- Old Blood on Carnosaur
- Scar Vet on Carnosaur with choice of 3 weapons
- Skink priest on foot

- Skink Priest on Troglodon
- Scar vet or Old Blood on foot

That is not bad, and certainly more options than the old metal.

That's an old kit though. You don't get plastic kit like that anymore. That's the problem.

tneva82 wrote:

 Flinty wrote:
The new plastics are the best of both worlds though. The great poses you used to only get in metal, with the ease of.plastic to.make.changes. No longer do.you need a dremel to.do.a.decent conversion job of a character model.

Yeah. Just awesome GS skills to resculpt damage you caused cutting up monopose model

Huh? What are you cutting them with, a breadknife?

 Kosake wrote:

 Big Mac wrote:
You know recasters just cast the whole sprue that GW makes or combine parts themselves and then cast them together, what you're talking about is new GW kits being not compatible with most 3rd party bits.

As far as the new pots are concerned, my only gripe is with the new taller wash pots, they are more prone to tip over and spill all of its contents. In order to keep the pots from drying out, simply add some drops of acrylic medium/metallic medium and some bottled water/distilled water.

I have serious doubts that you can cast a sprue that is optimized for industrial injection moulding of polystyrene in a silicon mold with resin. But as I said, that is the least of my worries.

Actually if you know how to PROPERLY make a mold (uses more silicon than most people want to but it's professional and proper) and the proper use and positioning of the mold for pouring and the placement of vents and how to place them you find that the whole sprue in fact makes life easier as the sprue itself lends itself to vent placement by telling you where to place them and when poured at the proper angle with the proper epoxy (not fast setting for instance) and the use of pressure casting..

You get bubble free casts just about every time but it costs more resin and more silicon and that's why hobbyists and recasters try to cut a few dollars (proper mold silicon is not cheap) and a few pennies in resin off.

Here is a hint....

The mold should not be held vertical but should be at about a 30 degree angle with the pour being on the bottom and the sealed end at the top. The vents should be as tall and the pour spout should be about a inch or so (depending on the viscosity and nature of your resin) above the height of the top of the mold. Most folks use straws, the vent straws should be narrow. Done this way you should have a proper polyurethane cast every time. Pressure vessels can be used to improve detail results and reduce the chances of fine details containing bubbles. The resin should be degassed prior to pouring as should the silicon two part mold.

It's actually very manual labor intensive and all the best recasters use these methods.
I should know we would make prototype casts of 3d printed designs this way in a job I once had... the mold should be fairly thick to allow proper clamping as well as at least 3/4 of an inch between the edge of your vent/sprue and edge of the mold.... so yeah... not component cheap.

ValentineGames wrote:
I'm still surprised GW has two part gun barrels on ALLOT of kits.
Come on GW it's practically 2019 and you're still doing something from the beginnings of model kits.
Even a small company like Rubicon does slide molding.

It amazes me that even on their most expensive kits they can't be bothered to slide mold the barrels.

 TheCustomLime wrote:

ValentineGames wrote:
I'm still surprised GW has two part gun barrels on ALLOT of kits.
Come on GW it's practically 2019 and you're still doing something from the beginnings of model kits.
Even a small company like Rubicon does slide molding.

It amazes me that even on their most expensive kits they can't be bothered to slide mold the barrels.

I guess joint seems on your £75-100 Tanks and Titans add...detail?