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I've heard that I should magnetise my models when I assemble them so that I can change options later on. What parts should I magnetise? Any tips on how to magnetise would also be very helpful.

Really depends on the type of model. For Marine type models, you can pretty much either magnetize the wrists or the shoulders. Doing the wrists requires smaller magnets and a steadier hand. Going with the shoulders can be easier and the results will be more easily hidden, but unless you figure out a way to glue the shoulder pads to the body so that the arms can be slipped in underneath, it means you'll have to assemble and paint extra sets of arms and shoulder pads. Some kits only contain enough of those for just the models in the box so you may have to acquire extras.

It would be helpful if you told us what models you plan to magnetize as different models will have different requirements. For example, for a Space Marine tactical squad if you want full options you should magnetize both arms on the Sergeant, one arm of the special weapon guy (Or both if you want to use different poses for different weapons) and both arms/backpack of the heavy weapons specialist so he can equip all heavy weapons. As for tips? You want a pin vise and a drill bit of the same diameter as the magnet. For example, a 2mm magnet will require a 2mm bit. Then you create a hole centered on the surface you'd normally apply glue to to attach the part to the model and then a matching hole on the other surface. You ideally want to make sure both parts line up right with these holes. Then you use apply just a bit of super glue into one part and stick in the magnet. Then repeat the same process for the other side. You want to ensure that the polarity is correct and there are multiple ways to do this.

Personally, what I do is, once the magnet is seated in and dry, I attach the stack of magnets it came from to it. Then I use my hobby knife to separate one magnet away. As long as you stick in the magnet with the side facing away from the hobby blade first the polarity will always be right. Some people use paint/markers to keep the polarity consistent and I recommend looking up guides for this.


I hope this answer is helpful.

Items you need: hand held pin vise with various size of drill bits, paper clips, metal clipper, round magnets of various size(1mm x 2mm, 1mm x 3 mm, 1mm x 5 mm), Ring type round magnet(1mm x 3mm with 1mm hole), super glue, eye protection. Its okay to get a 2nd pin vise so you don't have to switch bits as often. Tacky glue dots/strip may be helpful too instead of magnetizing or use with magnets.

Determine what and where to magnetize: most of the time its too much of a hassle to magnetize infantry as you'll need a lot of them and its a waste of effort and time to magnetize their arms/wrist. Use the small drill bit to drill gun barrels that is larger than a lasgun, such as boltgun and heavy weapons, or simply pinning(use paper clip) together metal models at their joints. If there are parts that do not require magnets then don't, areas like leman russ sponson guns are snug fit. Areas that require stronger magnets you can glue several 1mm thick magnets together or use the Ring type magnet to magnetize and pin for extra support.

It would help if you can list some of the models you're looking to magnetize or armies you collect for more info.

EDIT: oh yeah, universalize your magnet polarity would be very helpful too, you can simply mark one side with a marker when you plan to use them. Also use a smaller drill bit or nick with a xacto knife to center your eventual hole is recommended so that your gun barrels or magnets won't be off center.

im assuming we are talking WH 40k here.

dont bother mag infantry, it aint worth the bother.
what you do mag is large models, aka 60mm bases or bigger, cuz these models has alot of weps and enugh space to actualy place the mags, and these kits are costly, so it makes more sence.

the mags you need are called neodymium or rare earth. you want them from 2x1mm - 5x1mm when it comes to size for standard 28mm scale.
and since you need to embed them into the plastic you need drill bits in the same size, aka 2-5mm(preferably wood drills for plastic. resin and white metal you better use standard drill bits)

you also need some proper superglue to glue the mags to plastic/resin/white metal. i use 1superglue from locktite.

Thanks for the tips! I'm building a Blood Angels/Astra Militarum army so I might magnetise my librarian or death company. Is magnetising tanks a good idea?

Triple check you magnet polarity every time. The one time you don't will be the one time the magnet gets flipped over and you'll have the devil's own time getting it back out again.

Easiest thing to do is go through the stack of magnets with a permanent marker and mark off one polarity side.

Also helps to lightly sand them before gluing to have some rough areas for the glue to grip onto.

as a side note to avoid polarity problems - from now on I will be using steel micro, self-tapping screws on the options so I only need 1 magnet per side thus being cheaper & it doesn't matter which way round I glue each magnet.

My tip would be to use 1mm magnets wherever possible. Nice an easy to find drill bits to work with them, use multiple for heavy weapons and the like. I have used 5mm ones before and frankly, they are too strong for most situations.

The other thing I often do is drill one hole and glue the magnet,
then, let the corresponding magnet stick to that and dab some paint on it, you can see exactly where to try the next hole. If you get it slightly off centre, drill that hole a little bigger so you can align them properly, and fill the gap with greenstuff. Once set it will hold the magnet in place on it's own.

A few suggestions:

1) Don't do double magnets. Put one into the model's torso and a thin slit of metal onto the thing you want to attach. That way you don't have to worry about polarity.

2) The grade of magnet matters. Buy N52 magnets. They are a lot stronger than the more common N42 variety.

3) Use more than one magnet. The strength of the field increases with each additional one you apply. For my Grey Knights, I stuck 2 N52 1/8" x 1/16" magnets in the torso for backpack swaps. The backpacks stay on, unlike the arms for my Chaos Terminators, which were done a different way.

I hate magnets. If another option of weapons come id rather just get another model.


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First time i saw some one playing a game of 40k, they went to pick there titan up and it fell to peices


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I highly recommend not using magnets.

 Stormatious wrote:
I hate magnets. If another option of weapons come id rather just get another model.


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First time i saw some one playing a game of 40k, they went to pick there titan up and it fell to peices


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I highly recommend not using magnets.

Not to be rude, but if a magnetized model falls apart, it wasn't magnetized correctly in the first place. I magnetize all my models' bases so that I can transport them in a plastic tray with a metal sheet on the bottom, and I can literally turn it upside down and shake and nothing will fall out.

Sangenius- others have given you good advice here, I'd just throw in that I most commonly use 3x2mm and 6x2mm magnets myself. The 3x2s are small enough to work for Space Marine arms and infantry bases, while the 6x2s are perfect for things like tank guns and turrets.

I would say, though, that others are right in saying that you don't need to magnetize everything. My rule of thumb is that if I'm not wedded to a particular loadout, or think the meta might change, then I'll magnetize, but I don't bother magnetizing things that I only want to run a certain way, are cheap enough to buy and have multiple, or will be too fiddly/difficult to do. It's up to you how much work is worth it.

Meh i prefer no magnets, i like statues.


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And no one sees statues with magnetic arms.

If possible get a pin vice drill that is the same diameter as the magnet you're using. Makes it easy to drill a hole the magnet will sit in properly.

I will recommend this combo as a starter set. I bought it and was happy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CA58RJY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

As several thin coats of paint are better than 1 thick coat, several small magnets are often better than one big one.

magnets are fantastic for weapon slots and vehicles. make sure you know how to pin a model because sometimes models can spin on the magnets. magnet to magnet is what I do, just watch polarity. if you need help just PM me to get my attention. I use rare earth magnets. also make sure to get a hand drill. non powered.

I use a toothpick with some blue tack on it to apply magnets to the superglue join. I also like to peel magnets off a stack and magnetize all of my main bodies one at a time so I know the polarity is going consistently the same way. I then magnetize all of the weapons/arms one at a time the same way double checking the polarity as I go. It's SUPER maddening to get going and realize you've swapped polarity between shoulders and arms so now they're mismatched.

I magnetize everything, I still have no idea why.

Rhino doors, backpacks, hands, whatever.

I use N52 magnets of varying sizes, primarily 1.52x1.52, 1x3, 2x1, and 3x2

I magnetize both sides, I make sure my polarity is right with a piece of sprue that has a positive and negative magnet at each end - one end is white the other is black.

Get the right sized drill bit, slightly larger than your magnet so it doesn't get stuck while you are testing the depth

I have never had an issue with pieces falling off, and I can't see why you ever would if you do it right...

I made a magnet tool by boring a hole in one end of a popsicle stick, and gluing a 5mm magnet into it. Then label one side OUTER and the other side INNER. (or WEAPON and CHASSIS ,6whatever is easy to remember. Not only does this let you verify polarity, but you can use it to insert magnets into drilled holes.