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I can not, not matter how much i think about it can not figure this out, it really annoys me and takes up alot of my time with just sitting there and thinking about it.


So if you were selectively washing crevices only and not over the whole area. What happens when you come to a highly detailed area with so many different small complex crevices close together and alot of them quite shallow. If i only wash the crevices, no matter how thin the glaze or wash is, there is going to be that visible mark from where the glaze or wash ends and the base color starts. So the only thing i can think to solve this is too wash entirely over just this specific highly detailed area of the miniature. Ok so if i do that then i now have the non crevices areas tinted not matching how i have "selectivly" washed the other areas of the mini. I could just dry brush the base color to fix this, but what about if im doing a edge highlight highlighting method only and not layering over alot of the base? How do i edge highlight these areas that have become tinted when the rest of it has been edged highlighted with no tint, do i simply do a small "line" highlight on the very top of the high areas of the crevices that are tinted? but wouldn't this make no sense in terms of it fitting in with the rest of it, because the raised tinted areas are still going to have some tint showing unless i completely painted over that whole raised part with the highlight, but then im not edge highlighting am i...



Honestly, i know i can just wash over these areas entirely and forget about it, but for some reason im determined to only selectively wash when it comes to gold colors n stuff lol.... Any way this question bothers me greatly, never figured it out, i have written a thread about this before but i still don't get it honestly.


Thank you very much either way.

In areas like that, I wash the whole area, them use my thumb to wipe off the top bits (that you would not have painted with a selective wash)

It's really the only way to get an even coverage so that too much wash doesn't pool in on spot or another because you loaded the brush differently.
I've only just started selective washing and I only do it in areas that are "far" away from others recessed areas

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 Galef wrote:
In areas like that, I wash the whole area, them use my thumb to wipe off the top bits (that you would not have painted with a selective wash)

It's really the only way to get an even coverage so that too much wash doesn't pool in on spot or another because you loaded the brush differently.
I've only just started selective washing and I only do it in areas that are "far" away from others recessed areas

-

That's a good idea really...and incredibly basic............................i don't know what to say, thanks!

You only do it in far away areas, but cover completely complex areas like i'm thinking about?


edit - Thats a good idea, but! Wiping away is not going to remove it 100% completely right, i mean can you simply just wipe it and theres no smuding or no extremely hard to see tint?

For fine details I use a pin wash. It is an old scale modeler technique.
https://www.agapemodels.com/2009/04/03/modeling-techniques-a-simple-oil-wash-for-panel-lines/
The nut of it is that once the acrylics have dried a couple of days you dilute a small amount of oil paints with white spirits and paint that on. It gets right into any cracks and takes a while to dry so corrections are easy with a clean brush. The down side is that the oils take a few days to dry properly before you can continue painting.
Hope that helps and the whole article above is worth a read.

Oh interesting, thanks i'll check that out definitely.

The important thing to remember is that washes are not precise, and therefore you should always expect to have to go back and touch up some spots whether it's painting over an acrylic wash after it dries or adjusting an oil wash with a wet brush.

On one hand this sounds like a philisophical question about where one crevice starts and what is not a crevis,

On the other hand you can water out a wash with lathelim medium and drybrush on topp.

Resulats may vary.

When I paint I tend to think of the painbrush as a sugestion and the result is what ever the model desides on. Some times I can be more perssvasive then others. It is more about exploring what you find then bending something to your will. Especially with washes. It is not a very accurat teqnique. But that anything outside of a digital paint program rarly is.

What was it Bob Ross said? Happy acidents. Roll with the blows. Be like water? Here is an inspirational video from Bob:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJMwBwFj5nQ

Or this one?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fw6odlNp7_8

The thumb technique actually does work, as long as you're literally wiping it away immediately. There is no mark left behind.

Every now and then i accidently get a drop or smear of wash somewhere it's not supposed to go (for example, nuln oil on a gun, but accidently get some on a robe nearby) but if i wipe it off with my finger or a piece of paper towel within the first few seconds, it's like it was never there. Totally clean.

I've never tried it on purpose tho, as suggested by the person above, lol.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Also, you might wanna start looking into the gloss versions of some shades. GW sells them (Nuln Oil Gloss, for example) as the point of these is that they dont stick to flat surfaces, but flow right into recesses. Like someone suggested above, anything that you do get on a flat surface is easily brushed off.

It's the same principle behind how some people actually lay a gloss coat over a model with base colors, before they apply the shade. Which is another technique you could use, for that matter. Gloss varnish changes the surface tension so that the shade rolls off of large flat areas (rather than gripping onto microscopic textures) and redirects it into recesses.

 Sentionaut wrote:
The thumb technique actually does work, as long as you're literally wiping it away immediately. There is no mark left behind.

Every now and then i accidently get a drop or smear of wash somewhere it's not supposed to go (for example, nuln oil on a gun, but accidently get some on a robe nearby) but if i wipe it off with my finger or a piece of paper towel within the first few seconds, it's like it was never there. Totally clean.

I've never tried it on purpose tho, as suggested by the person above, lol.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Also, you might wanna start looking into the gloss versions of some shades. GW sells them (Nuln Oil Gloss, for example) as the point of these is that they dont stick to flat surfaces, but flow right into recesses. Like someone suggested above, anything that you do get on a flat surface is easily brushed off.

It's the same principle behind how some people actually lay a gloss coat over a model with base colors, before they apply the shade. Which is another technique you could use, for that matter. Gloss varnish changes the surface tension so that the shade rolls off of large flat areas (rather than gripping onto microscopic textures) and redirects it into recesses.

Oh yeah interesting, so you are saying the gloss ones dont stick, and the non gloss does stick, but even though it sticks if you wipe it off straight away it will come off any way?

I think you really are over thinking this issue dude.. Just wash the area you need washing, then repaint the raised areas with your base colour. Even if it's a small surface area, it will give you fine detail practice.

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
I think you really are over thinking this issue dude.. Just wash the area you need washing, then repaint the raised areas with your base colour. Even if it's a small surface area, it will give you fine detail practice.

Yeah, or just wipe it off like they say, whats the best method you reckon?


Yeah definitely over thinking it maybe, but i just want to the know what i wanted to know any way, which i now know, but now its do i paint it or wipe it, but i guess both do the exact same thing so my question has been answered thank you very much.


Thanks heaps,

Stormatious.

It's purely a matter of preference. I don't wipe washes because you can end up with nasty tide marks, so sometimes I'll panel line and sometimes I'll wash the whole model and go over the base colour again, it really depends on the model.

You shouldn't really need to wipe any away unless you've over applied the wash. Thin your washes down same as you would paint, that way you can apply more if necessary.

Then im glazing really right?

Thanks queen

Almost, but not. A glaze differentiates from a wash in that it tints the paint that it sits over. A thin wash is not a glaze, it's just a thinner wash.

Well what do you do exactly lol. Ill just copy you.

Bause even washes still leave a tint, i know its hardly visible, but i want it completely gone as if you were looking under a microscope or some gak.

Thanks

Who cares really you dont need to reply, ill just try different method and what ever looks the best i should just do that instead of making threads asking questions, but yeah i dont know.

Thanks.

To be honest dude it's just about working out your process. It's art not science and no one can teach you on a blackboard as it were.

I use glazes and layering to shade my large flat surfaces, then I'll apply thinned wash into the recessed areas as tidily as possible. Once this is dry, if there are any tide marks, I'll use my base colour/shaded base colour to tidy them up.

First off, for fine detail washes, use q-tips to wipe away the area where the wash ends. You can create some interesting effects with it.

Second off, when I wash an area with fine detail, I usually go back to do some edge highlighting. This increases the contrast and can be used to hide wash edges.

Good luck!