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See title. The unit in question looks pretty baller, but at $117 for a 134 point model... Just not worth the cost.

Any ideas on how to scratch-build one?

JohnnyHell on Dakka did one of his own

https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/390/513429.page#10124597

It's pretty freaking awesome.

Thanks Flinty!

I used the template made by Patoroch for the most part. There’s a Google Drive link with his plans in out there, and he posts at Warhammer Paperfabricators group on Facebook. His templates are designed for paper/card, so I had to adapt on the fly as I made mine from plasticard for durability/gameabililty.

I used a cut-down table salt container and some MDF 60mm bases as the core, then wrapped this in 0.5mm styrene sheet. Other parts were cut from 0.5mm or 1mm styrene/plasticard, with a few bits of styrene tubing as well. I print out the templates, cut out parts roughly, use double sided tape to stick them to the plasticard. I then score lightly, then firmly a few times, not enough to cut through, then bend and snap out the part. This gives a sharper line than cutting through. I use an emery board to ‘dress’ the part (sand down any rough bits/oddities) and to form the curves parts. Assembly is with plastic glue (same you’d use for miniatures), with superglue where needed. I use superglue increasingly for speed, because I’m impatient! Lastly, the rivets are 1mm half-round nail art beads - I apply a tiny drop of plastic glue, lick my finger, grab the rivets, apply to the glue then use my knife tip to position them.

Once I’d gotten the basic body wrapped (little bit of calculating to do to get it to match the paper dimension) it was a fairly easy if complicated build. The drills took the longest, as there were so many bits to cut. I simplified the grinders by adding tiny rectangle offcuts to the cones instead of cutting triangular teeth, and it looks just fine.

Hopefully that explanation along with the pics on my blog will help explain most of it. Let me know if any more questions!

 JohnnyHell wrote:
Thanks Flinty!

I used the template made by Patoroch for the most part. There’s a Google Drive link with his plans in out there, and he posts at Warhammer Paperfabricators group on Facebook. His templates are designed for paper/card, so I had to adapt on the fly as I made mine from plasticard for durability/gameabililty.

I used a cut-down table salt container and some MDF 60mm bases as the core, then wrapped this in 0.5mm styrene sheet. Other parts were cut from 0.5mm or 1mm styrene/plasticard, with a few bits of styrene tubing as well. I print out the templates, cut out parts roughly, use double sided tape to stick them to the plasticard. I then score lightly, then firmly a few times, not enough to cut through, then bend and snap out the part. This gives a sharper line than cutting through. I use an emery board to ‘dress’ the part (sand down any rough bits/oddities) and to form the curves parts. Assembly is with plastic glue (same you’d use for miniatures), with superglue where needed. I use superglue increasingly for speed, because I’m impatient! Lastly, the rivets are 1mm half-round nail art beads - I apply a tiny drop of plastic glue, lick my finger, grab the rivets, apply to the glue then use my knife tip to position them.

Once I’d gotten the basic body wrapped (little bit of calculating to do to get it to match the paper dimension) it was a fairly easy if complicated build. The drills took the longest, as there were so many bits to cut.

Hopefully that explanation along with the pics on my blog will help explain most of it. Let me know if any more questions!

Do you still have a link to the Drive?

And, as I mentioned in my PM, thanks a ton!

You have mail ;-)

You’re totally welcome. I learnt most of the techniques from reading The Blackadder’s Titan builds and copying his techniques, notably ‘score and snap’ and using snap off blade knives (so you can refresh the blade easily and cheaply when it starts to dull). Grab a snap off knife, steel ruler, plasticard, emery boards and some 1mm half round nail art beads and have a go! It’s cheap as chips in comparison to the legit models, and can look as good when done well. My Spartan and Land Raider got mistaken for real FW again at the local gaming club last week. :-)

Not a scratch-build, but some people have suggested using the Mantic Veer-myn Tunneller - but I've no idea if it's the right size.

beast_gts wrote:
Not a scratch-build, but some people have suggested using the Mantic Veer-myn Tunneller - but I've no idea if it's the right size.

I usually play at a GW, so scratch-built is okay, but other companies are not. Good advice for others looking, though.