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I’m trying my best but I keep over applying the GW plastic glue, it just comes out to quickly and makes a mess, any tips?

A few tips:

1) Instead of putting the glue on the part put the part on the glue. Ergo give the bottle a tiny tilt and squeeze to get a beat of glue on the end and then gently touch the plastic part you want to attach to the bubble of glue.
Remember you're not aiming to make a huge ball of glue, just a tiny amount as you would normally use, but this time you're touching the part to the glue which gives you a little more control.

2) Once you've got glue on the part let it sit for a few seconds and then dab the part on some fabric (don't use tissue as it can break up and stick to the glue and get all kinds of messy). You're not wiping the glue off, just giving it a very quick dab to take off any excess.

3) If you can master getting very little glue on parts then, where possible and practical, apply glue to both halves and dab it off. This means both parts have glue applied and start a bit of their own melting before being pressed together.

4) If you get a bit of excess glue on the model don't bother trying to wipe it off, unless the part is large and smooth you'll normally make more mess. Instead I find holding the parts close and blowing on them hard helps. It basically spreads the glue out thin and often resolves the matter (unless you've got a LOT of excess glue).

5) If you get in a mess stop, put the model down and leave it for a few hours. Cleaning up wet and tacky plastic glue results in a supreme mess of half melted glue and plastic and stringy bits all over the place.
Instead let the glue fully cure (bigger lumps might take much longer, don't be afraid to leave it overnight). Once its fully cured and hard you can scrape/cut/file/clean it away from the surface with greater ease. Though if you're dealing with any big lumps of glue remember to be careful; even after several hours the inside could still be tacky wet whilst the outside appears firm and hard.

6) Go slow, its not a race.

7) If the nozzle gets blocked don't try squeezing harder to get more out. Instead if its blocked remove the metal rod and hold it in a pair of tweezers or a gentle hold in a vice or other support. Then get a match or lighter and burn the rod. The plastic glue will burn off (it might spit and fizzle a little) and clear the nozzle. Clearly as you're burning it off you must remove it from the pot (you don't want to burn/blowup the whole pot of glue).
Once burned off give the rod a wipe as it will have some soot on it; then return it to the bottle.

This is really low risk and very effective.

Dont squeeze the bottle just let it pour out with gravity then it also wont spew out when you stand it up

you don't need to take out the needle before applying a flame to it (in my experience).
Also, the best way to apply GW glue is to hold the bottle over a bin... & drop it in. Then buy some Revell Contacta. It's cheaper & better although GW won't let you use it in their shops siting 'allergies' (no joke - i went in to test their contrast paints but had to put a model together first & they wouldn't let me use my own glue!!)

Yeah I know their glue is not the best at least it seems better than it used to be, I remember my friends models always coming apart though that might have been their super glue come to think of it, well it was a reluctant purchase, I just didn’t want to wait to mail order some and I cant seem to find any other sellers round these parts.

 bubber wrote:
you don't need to take out the needle before applying a flame to it (in my experience).
Also, the best way to apply GW glue is to hold the bottle over a bin... & drop it in. Then buy some Revell Contacta. It's cheaper & better although GW won't let you use it in their shops siting 'allergies' (no joke - i went in to test their contrast paints but had to put a model together first & they wouldn't let me use my own glue!!)

How strong is the smell? GW's glue doesn't smell too strong but the ModelMaster stuff people started using at my store was horrifying. I don't care if you can't smell your own glue after awhile - some plastic cements make me nauseous and ModelMaster was one of them. No joke.

When you start applying if it beads up overly wipe the excess off with some paper towel. Unlike superglue it doesn't react and start smoking lol.

Step 1: Discard
Step 2: Buy Revell

 mrshl9898 wrote:
Step 1: Discard
Step 2: Buy Revell

I tend to agree with this sentiment

What i do is hold the super glue side ways or upwards, and gently put the part im attaching against the end of the nozzle of the super glue where i use the pressure of my hand which is holding the glue to determine how much of the glue i want to "touch" the plastic with.


This is better then just letting it just come straight out from the nozzle on to the plastic or what ever material the model is made out of.





From,


Stormatious.

I'll echo the sentiments of many here and say the best way to apply GW plastic glue is to get rid of it and get your hands on a much better, much cheaper alternative. I prefer Revell Contacta myself, but there are other good options too.

 Stormatious wrote:
What i do is hold the super glue side ways or upwards, and gently put the part im attaching against the end of the nozzle of the super glue where i use the pressure of my hand which is holding the glue to determine how much of the glue i want to "touch" the plastic with.

This is better then just letting it just come straight out from the nozzle on to the plastic or what ever material the model is made out of.

Bonus tip: I'd highly recommend using plastic glue for plastic models as it's much better at forming a lasting bond than super glue is. I also find it much easier to work with as you've got a little bit of time to adjust the pieces before the glue starts to set.

Slipspace wrote:
I'll echo the sentiments of many here and say the best way to apply GW plastic glue is to get rid of it and get your hands on a much better, much cheaper alternative. I prefer Revell Contacta myself, but there are other good options too.

 Stormatious wrote:
What i do is hold the super glue side ways or upwards, and gently put the part im attaching against the end of the nozzle of the super glue where i use the pressure of my hand which is holding the glue to determine how much of the glue i want to "touch" the plastic with.

This is better then just letting it just come straight out from the nozzle on to the plastic or what ever material the model is made out of.

Bonus tip: I'd highly recommend using plastic glue for plastic models as it's much better at forming a lasting bond than super glue is. I also find it much easier to work with as you've got a little bit of time to adjust the pieces before the glue starts to set.

Yes, this is true, i only recently found that plastic glue is more suitable for plastic. I am going to be making the transition to plastic glue for future endeavors.


From,


Stormatious.

 Stormatious wrote:

Slipspace wrote:
I'll echo the sentiments of many here and say the best way to apply GW plastic glue is to get rid of it and get your hands on a much better, much cheaper alternative. I prefer Revell Contacta myself, but there are other good options too.

 Stormatious wrote:
What i do is hold the super glue side ways or upwards, and gently put the part im attaching against the end of the nozzle of the super glue where i use the pressure of my hand which is holding the glue to determine how much of the glue i want to "touch" the plastic with.

This is better then just letting it just come straight out from the nozzle on to the plastic or what ever material the model is made out of.

Bonus tip: I'd highly recommend using plastic glue for plastic models as it's much better at forming a lasting bond than super glue is. I also find it much easier to work with as you've got a little bit of time to adjust the pieces before the glue starts to set.

Yes, this is true, i only recently found that plastic glue is more suitable for plastic. I am going to be making the transition to plastic glue for future endeavors.


From,


Stormatious.

I do reccomend in that case to NOT buy GW stuff, go for revell instead.

A common misconception is that it is glue, it isn't.

Nor does it work like glue.

With glue, pieces are held togther by the glue itself.

But plastic "glue", or polystyrene cement, is actually a solvent that disolves the plastic and then when it dries out, the 2 pieces are welded together.

Everything you can get from Citadel (apart from paints, books, and miniatures + other gaming stuff), you can get elsewhere for lower price/better quality/both. Especially the glue and tools.

Buy Contacta plastic glue from Revell. Works very well, has a needle for precision applying and there is enough to build 50 Leman Russes, if not more. I think...

For really tiny parts I use a toothpick to hold a bead of glue. It lets me get to smallest of areas without slop.

I use strictly Model Master and love it. I put a little dollop on a piece of cardboard and dip toothpick into it to get the amount I need. For large surfaces I just lightly apply the glue direct from the bottle.

Been using MM since GW switched from pewter to plastic and it's never let me down.

I also use Humbrol 'Liquid Poly' brush-on plastic weld glue:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Humbrol-28-Liquid-Poly-Bottle/dp/B000JCE68G/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2OFOU0OX65NA5&keywords=humbrol+poly+cement&qid=1565871250&s=gateway&sprefix=humbrol%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-6
The trick with this is to snip off the brush in the lid then use an old paint brush (or cheap new ones) - you can be very accurate this way. You don't need to clean the brush after. Once any glue on the brush dries, it turns powdery so you can just get rid of it by twirling the bristles between your fingers. I wouldn't paint with it again though.

If you're using a normal plastic cement (like the Model Master/Testors one above), it's pretty simple.

1) It's chemically melting plastic together, so you need...very little. Less than you'd expect. A tiny bit which will spread to cover the surface is all you'll ever need. This isn't elmer's glue. The more you apply the less likely it is to dry quickly and effectively...and will make holding the model in place much more annoying/difficult. Extra glue just makes a sloppy, droopy join.
2) As mentioned above, if the metal nozzle clogs - use a lighter, OR...yank the nozzle, invert it, and place it back in - the glue will cure itself.
3) Generally don't even squeeze, just let it drip out, or provide a tiny, miniscule squeeze if needed.