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I've been using some dry pigments for weathering. I really like the effect when I first put it on, but I always end up disappointed after I applied the fixer to keep the pigment in place. So far I've tried matte varnish, glaze medium and isopropyl alcohol, and every time it removes like 90% of the effect. I've seen these products recommended as binders, so it's probably something I'm doing wrong. I take a drop of binder on a brush and then ouch it to the area, letting capillary action spread it out to bind the pigment. Any tips?

Yeah, just leave it.


Seriously, don't use a fixative. Just be careful handling it.

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
Yeah, just leave it.


Seriously, don't use a fixative. Just be careful handling it.

I'm notoriously clumsy, and these are rank-and-files so being careful isn't much of an option unfortunately.

Have you tried doing it the other way round?
By that I mean apply the varnish first and then the pigments.
I’m not sure if it’s a viable solution or not but it’s worth.a try.

apply the varnish and while still wet then use the dry stuff so when the varnish dries its trapped in it.

It still gives the same result. Any fixative will effect that dry look. The only one I haven't tried is hairspray. The best thing to do it just apply and leave. If you knock it off due to clumsiness, just add a little more.

With the powders, you have to massively overdo the effect for what you want, as the fixative will tone it back a crapload.

Even the scale modellers who used to do it (only using hairspray to hold it down, because their models usually go into display cases anyway and don't get handled) that way. Because even hairspray would tone the effect down a lot.

Hairspray gets worn off by sweat and the oils in your skin. Not recommended for a gaming model. Just saying. It breaks down just with atmospheric humidity.

I've only used dry pigments for display scale models and I don't use a fixative, although for some effects I've mixed them into water for dried mud.

I just don't touch it when I'm done or if I have to I hold it by the diorama base.

I wouldn't recommend pigments for gaming models.

There's no reason you can't use pigments on gaming models. It they're on a base they're usually on a rough surface that will hold them anyway, and they should only be used sparingly on the miniatures themselves, in recesses around the feet and lower limbs usually. Just brush them on, and leave.

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
There's no reason you can't use pigments on gaming models. It they're on a base they're usually on a rough surface that will hold them anyway, and they should only be used sparingly on the miniatures themselves, in recesses around the feet and lower limbs usually. Just brush them on, and leave.

Fair enough, I'll try applying them w/o fixative for dusting around the feet and use other methods to get my rust effects. I've got some typhus corrosion I can try.

For a dust effect, you could try this on your gaming models:

 Danielle Rae wrote:

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
There's no reason you can't use pigments on gaming models. It they're on a base they're usually on a rough surface that will hold them anyway, and they should only be used sparingly on the miniatures themselves, in recesses around the feet and lower limbs usually. Just brush them on, and leave.

Fair enough, I'll try applying them w/o fixative for dusting around the feet and use other methods to get my rust effects. I've got some typhus corrosion I can try.

For rust effect, an easy way is using watered down mournfang brown. It leaves an orangey brown effect that's perfect for rust. You can also look into ak interactive enamels. I have the rust streaking fluid, but you can also take the thinned (with mineral spirits) product and apply it to recesses etc.

Funny timing, i was JUST having this exact issue while using pigments for my first time this week. Very frustrating to find the fixers just erased the pigments.

Since it's just my models boots i'm weathering for a desert sand effect, i settled on using a pigment/lamian mixture near the bottom of the boots where it should look more concentrated anyway, and then once tried, blended up from there using dry powder, leaving the transition area un-fixed and deciding that i'll simply be careful not to touch that area - fairly easy, since my models are commonly picked up around the head/shoulders or by their base.

Not sure if that's helpful for what you're looking to do, but it came out working really well.

Apply the fixant first. Then apply the powders. Let it dry, then matt seal it.

If you are spraying your aersol testors matt spray or something through an airbrush before it dries your going to blow it all off.

Another option is to mix it 91% iso alcohol with the pigmant into a past like substance and "paint it on". This is more for larger dirt areas like mud for tank tracks etc...

You need to come to terms that your finished look will not remain your finished look. Either the binding chemical will tone it down, or pigment will always fall of.

Your teqnique is flawed. Master it again. This time with your binding agent in mind.