Applying UV resin t- Pre or post varnish?

Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:

No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
Times and dates in your local timezone.
Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.

If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

**Argive**

Hi

I got some toxic UV resin I'm going to slap on my base.

Is anyone able to tell me if this should be done as a final step over varnished base or can be applied before varnishing?
(The weather is dog gak so not sure if I will be able to varnish tomorrow and want to finish my mini for the painting challenge

)

I use Tamiya satin finish varnish. I found it sometimes really frosts up my metallic/golds and I'm terrible judge when it comes to application lol. Not sure how it will react to the toxic resin

Also, how quick does it set under UV lamp? I want to pour it through a pipe and set it as sets and don't want it to overflow. The base holder thing I got from GSW does not fir the wraithlord base as its too small. (Maybe warming it up would work)

**Ouze**

Do you mean like 3d printing resin? 405nm stuff?

If so, do it pre-matte, it's pretty shiny usually.

So far as how fast it cures, that's hard to answer because there are a lot of variables: how much power does your UV lamp have, how old is it (they degrade over time), and so on. I have UV LEDs that take 15-20 minutes to surface cure, a UV lamp that is my go-to that takes about 5 minutes, and a UV flashlight that virtually instant cures.

**Argive**

Ouze wrote:
Do you mean like 3d printing resin? 405nm stuff?

If so, do it pre-matte, it's pretty shiny usually.

So far as how fast it cures, that's hard to answer because there are a lot of variables: how much power does your UV lamp have, how old is it (they degrade over time), and so on. I have UV LEDs that take 15-20 minutes to surface cure, a UV lamp that is my go-to that takes about 5 minutes, and a UV flashlight that virtually instant cures.

Its the liquid stuff from Green stuff world.

**Ouze**

Oh, I have no idea then. Please disregard what I said.

**queen_annes_revenge**

After. Water effects (I assume this is what you're using it for) are last.

**Argive**

queen_annes_revenge wrote:
After. Water effects (I assume this is what you're using it for) are last.

Thanks QAR I knew you had worked with the stuff before.

I will have a play around tomorrow on test surfaces..

Is it fairly runny/how fast does it set under direct UV torch?? (I got the one from GSW)

**queen_annes_revenge**

Well I just set mine in the sun and it took very little time. A couple of hours? So much better than 2 part which takes ages. I believe if you use a uv torch it will dry very quickly.

Automatically Appended Next Post:
It comes out of the tube quite thick but will spread out to fill any crevices it's poured into.

**Argive**

queen_annes_revenge wrote:
Well I just set mine in the sun and it took very little time. A couple of hours? So much better than 2 part which takes ages. I believe if you use a uv torch it will dry very quickly.

Automatically Appended Next Post:
It comes out of the tube quite thick but will spread out to fill any crevices it's poured into.

Thanks QAR!

The containment thingy I got does not fit on the base so might be tricky.. Looking forward to using the stuff tomorrow.

**queen_annes_revenge**

Did you get the little plastic cup things from gsw? I want to get some of those.. But yeah I can see them being a problem for gw bases as they have the diagonally chamfered edge. But they would work well for plinths with even vertical sides.

What you can do is cut out the top of the base, and fill the bottom section with plasticard or milliput, to create a hollow base that could be filled with resin. Search how to paint night lords by mezgike on YouTube. He does this to create an ice base for the nightlord with a space marine stuck under the ice.

**catbarf**

I varnish over water effects all the time. Just needs a layer of brushed-on gloss varnish to clear it up (matte varnish makes it cloudy) and restore the shine.

**Argive**

Yes. They are made of a thick rubber material and if go in the base they wrap around the edge. But for the largest base size im starting out it seems to be like a fraction of a mm too wide.. and doeasnt quite fit snug.

That could be because I have layers of paint on the base rim from painting process..I think if I go to work on the base with a Dremel and clean it and shave a bit of the thickness as well as heat the rubber thing it should fit.

The mistake I did is that I have the model flued to the base already... Lesson for the future when attempting extravagant bases: do those separately lol.

I will be implementing their resins and products into more project in the future. Very happy with the barbed wire and their metal basing stuffs, and rollers!

I'm very excited to see where I can take this tech. I have some ambitious ideas... Need to get experience working with the UV materials though.. There is no substitute for it experience. I will check out the video. I wonder if it sticks to certain things and what I could use as moulds..

Next I will want to brush some over a ping pong ball to see if I can make a infantry sized spherical energy field next for my DA exarchs.

**Ashaar**

You might want to test it somewhere else first, to see how long it takes to cure for you, and whether it interacts with the varnish, as well as how easy it is to pour, as then you'll be better prepared.
I use a uv nail polish setting dome with leds, and while I haven't used it on minis yet I have been making dice - through a clear silicone mould, they feel cured after about a minute but I do it for 3 to be certain, in 30 sec bursts.

As for making moulds, thermoplastic (like 'blue stuff') doesn't work well as the uv resin heats up as it cures so I found detail was lost, and Ive found uv resin's cure is inhibited by polymer clay. I recommend addition cure silicone as it works well with the resin, is easy to de-mould, and doesn't leave a sticky/uncured surface. I've only used clear silicone so I can't speak for opaque ones, but I'd assume as long as the light can reach it it should be fine.

**AduroT**

I’ve got that resin from GSW. It’s very watery. Not full on water, kind of a hot syrup. To cure it I got the uv flashlight they sell, and that’ll cure it in a Second. Like damn near instantly. Great stuff.

**Argive**

AduroT wrote:
I’ve got that resin from GSW. It’s very watery. Not full on water, kind of a hot syrup. To cure it I got the uv flashlight they sell, and that’ll cure it in a Second. Like damn near instantly. Great stuff.

Nice was hoping that was the case. Time to get experimentin

**queen_annes_revenge**

I was too cheap to buy a torch. Summer sunshine worked fine but maybe I'll need one for the winter.

**Argive**

The torch is insane.. it hardens almost instantly though. Like it gives off smoke and is hard as soon as you shine it!

I think working with it outside might be fun when it gets sunny. I imagine it sets slowly so could shape it potentially. Was hoping to be able to that but with the torch you get no time at all almost.

I love the stuff.

**AduroT**

Dug up a photo of a Starfinder character I modeled using this. Tiny hydrokenetic cuttlefish in a blob of water. Note I mixed in a bit of blue glaze to the bottle so there’s a slight tint to it.