Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I found a pile of some old chaos stuff in the basement and most of it has broken apart from the moving process.
I'm looking to reglue everything back together but what do people use that works well on metal to metal or metal to plastic?
I tend to be lazy and buy Walmart special super glue but that tends to break apart with any type of bumping.
Where I live I have limited hobby store access, so department store glue would help not having to travel great distances to find it.

As a classic battletech player i stand by my ZA+ zapagap it will bond just about anything...just don't get it on your hands it sets instantly to skin.

It comes in 3 different thicknesses and there is an accelerator to quick set those fiddly bits

Gorilla glue. That is all.

Most of people's perceived problems with metal stem from gak glue. If they all used that, then there would be no issue.

You could solve your issue by pinning too. For metal I use a power drill with a 1mm bit, then use aluminium rod for the pins. Takes minutes and leaves a much stronger bond without having to resort to mega glues.

I don't think pinning is my problem. On the metal blood crusher, the head has two pegs and I put glue on both pegs and around the perimeter
After allowing it to dry the head will still come loose so I put even more glue. I will try the glues you guys suggested.

 Genoside07 wrote:
I don't think pinning is my problem. On the metal blood crusher, the head has two pegs and I put glue on both pegs and around the perimeter
After allowing it to dry the head will still come loose so I put even more glue. I will try the glues you guys suggested.

That's strange. You can also bolster metal joins with GS or milliput

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:

 Genoside07 wrote:
I don't think pinning is my problem. On the metal blood crusher, the head has two pegs and I put glue on both pegs and around the perimeter
After allowing it to dry the head will still come loose so I put even more glue. I will try the glues you guys suggested.

That's strange. You can also bolster metal joins with GS or milliput

YMMV but once upon a time I heard that the strongest superglue bond is the thinnest layer between two flush surfaces, and to create the latter by pushing the bits together with a bit of putty in between, then separate them, let the putty harden, and glue as normal. Only tried it once or twice myself and it held well enough, though the minis didn't suffer any significant knocks so don't quote me.

I use Loctite Super Glue Gel Control. Blue bottle. Always worked for me with little problem.

For metal on metal, if the surfaces are flat, I score them a little with the edge of a hobby knife to give the glue something to bite into.

You can find Loctite at Home Depot, Lowe's, Target, Michael's, etc. Its pretty common.

I do a lot of conversion work with old metal models. Here's what works for me:

1) Make sure the surfaces you're going to glue are clean. That way the glue sticks to the material and not the film of crud.

2) Roughen up the surfaces so the glue has something to hold onto. A bit of scoring with a hobby knife works wonders.

3) Pin all the things. CA glue (cyanoacrylate = super glue and the like) can be brittle and weak to twist stress. Pins complement the glue. Sometimes I'll even pin a joint twice so it doesn't twist free around the pin. I use a hand twist drill with pins made from paper clips or steel sewing pins. Roughen up the pins with a file before gluing.

4) Dipping a fresh CA-glue joint in baking soda or talcum (baby) powder makes a hard putty-like filler out of the overflow glue. Useful for creating more contact between the surfaces and filling any voids that would allow the joint to wiggle.

I noticed AK is selling some weird glue that combines cyanoacrylate with some sort of black rubber? Anyone tried it? Sounded to me like the added rubber agent could make the glued joint withstand stress better than cyanoacrylate alone.

Loctite Professional. Blue bottle. Consistency of corn syrup.

Great stuff. Won't use anything else.

I agree with the super glue gel, as it fills gaps. Others as suggested will work I am sure, but this is all I have used to good results.

tauist wrote:
I noticed AK is selling some weird glue that combines cyanoacrylate with some sort of black rubber? Anyone tried it? Sounded to me like the added rubber agent could make the glued joint withstand stress better than cyanoacrylate alone.

That is supposedly the deal with Gorilla Superglue as well. I like the Gorilla Superglue a lot and it’s my go to for all my hobby jobs and many tasks in the wood shop. Starbond also has a black superglue that is fantastic. I use it to fill knot holes in wood.

My favorite for heavy metal models though, is a metal pin with JB Kwik 5 minute epoxy.

Anyone tried E6000 before..??
I know about it is there is a warning it can not be sold in California because of the cancer warning.

Two things to remember about 'super' glues -

1. More is not better. You want to use as little as possible.

2. It is always going to be weak to certain kinds of bumping. Super glues have excellent tensile strength, but weak shear strength. That means trying to pull two surfaces directly apart is almost impossible. But knock the joint from the side, it falls apart easily. This is why the man in the hard hat can hang from the beam; his weight is pulling directly away from the beam, and the glue is at its strongest. Knock the hard hat from the side...

 totalfailure wrote:
Two things to remember about 'super' glues -

1. More is not better. You want to use as little as possible.

2. It is always going to be weak to certain kinds of bumping. Super glues have excellent tensile strength, but weak shear strength. That means trying to pull two surfaces directly apart is almost impossible. But knock the joint from the side, it falls apart easily. This is why the man in the hard hat can hang from the beam; his weight is pulling directly away from the beam, and the glue is at its strongest. Knock the hard hat from the side...

Lies!! I remember back in the days of the metal Greater Demons. The Bloodthirster was a nightmare to assemble. Even with pins his wings didn't want to stay glued to his body. I think I held each wing in place for nearly an hour, rocking it gently back and forth like a baby while i sang it lullaby's only to have the damn wing fall off by magic the first game I played with it as if it was wanting to say "Eff you and all your hard work". I never did reglue his wing, I just nicknamed him "Gimp" and left it at that. And I was using good superglue and the recommended 1 drop per square inch, which obviously the join was a lot smaller but no such thing as 1/2 drop or 1/4th of a drop.

Whatever super glue you use, make sure it is gel super glue.
Always better.

 Genoside07 wrote:
Anyone tried E6000 before..??
I know about it is there is a warning it can not be sold in California because of the cancer warning.

E6000 is basically a rubber cement or contact cement. It works well, but not great for models. Also, you can buy it at any Home Depot in California. It has some uses in terrain and scenery, but probably not for models.