Switch Theme:

What brush do you use for priming?  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut





I need to stop using my airbrush for a while, fortunately the GSW primers go on well with a brush as well. I have broken my number 6 brush that I would have used for applying lots of paint like a primer and before I re buy I wonders if there was a better brush for large smooth applications. I never get on with the Citadel basing brush.
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





If I can't use my airbrush to prime something, I'll just use a rattle can. I've never particularly liked brush on primers, and in my experiments they don't add much strength to the paint job over not priming at all (though I always wash models with soapy water first).
   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Procrastinator extraordinaire





London, UK

I stick to rattle cans for my priming, so if it's in the depths of winter, I work through what I've primed already. I used to prime by hand when I was a kid, and I never want to experience that again!

   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut





Interesting, I’ve not had the best experience with rattle cans I find it too easy to get the primer layer too thick and they don’t always give a smooth finish. But I may have to persevere with them if applying by brush starts to take too much time.

   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





mrFickle wrote:
Interesting, I’ve not had the best experience with rattle cans I find it too easy to get the primer layer too thick and they don’t always give a smooth finish. But I may have to persevere with them if applying by brush starts to take too much time.



What rattle cans are you using?

In recent times I've been using Tamiya lacquer rattle can, it shrinks and self levels really well so it can feel like you've laid down too much, but when it cures it's fine. Also been using the GW primers that are designed for contrast paint undercoats, they lay down pretty nicely and though they're expensive, you get a lot of paint in a can. The GW primers these days have acetone in them, so absolutely spray them outside and make sure you don't stand down wind of them. I leave them outside (or in a spare room if it's too cold/wet outside) to dry for a little while and the acetone smell to burn off.

On cold days, warming the can in a bath of warm water can be good (or I just run it under the hot water tap). Always start and end your spray stream not pointing at the model to avoid the sputter you can get at the start and end of a spray. If you have a lot of spraying to do, maybe take a break midway through to warm the can back up (the liquid to gas phase change makes the can get cold, and a cold can is a low pressure can). And read the instructions! Not all cans are created equal, some like to be held closer or further away than others.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/12/09 13:15:22


 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut






On the rare occasions I use a brush for large easy painting I use a flat one, that way you can use the edge for fine areas too.

   
Made in gb
Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws





Cloud City, Bespin

I have used my AP regiment brush, I think its slightly bigger than the standard citadel brush or whatever it's called now to brush on gesso.

I still prefer rattle cans to prime, I've had some problems with AP colour primers but they're really good and get you ahead with base colour.

I really should get a new compressor.

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
Straight out if the pot, bang it on. What else is there to know?
 DV8 wrote:
Blood Angels Furioso Dreadnought should also be double-fisted.
 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut





I mostly used the old citadel ones and haven’t tried the new ones for contrast paints. T o be fair the chaos black was always ok. I tend to base in a light grey so I will try the wraith bone one
   
Made in au
Stealthy Space Wolves Scout





I use airbrush when I got the time, mostly because prepin' them is quite a project in my confined space. I do have a Mr. Surfacer 1000 spray can I use for large group of models. That needs outdoor open space, however, and it's not always ideal in a highrise apartment.

When I don't have time I to do either I use a flat brush to apply Mr. Surfacer 1200 grey with Mr Color thinner at ~1/2 ratio. Gotta do it in a well-ventilated area though, the smell is too much.
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




Scotland

As it is too cold now I've had to use brush on primer. I used to use vallejo, but began to hate it as it dried like a skin and rubbed off at the basic touch. I now use something called Ultimate primer, which I think is the same as the Badger brand. I use 2 coats and find it pretty resilient.
As for brushes I normally use a 6, sometimes I use a 3 or 4, depending on how many models I'm painting. What I find is that whilst a 6 covers a bigger area quickly with primer, it normally isn't a good enough coat and I end up going over it again. A 3 or 4 size brush concentrates primer better, giving a better coating first go, but it takes a little longer to cover figures. But worth it!

 
   
Made in gb
Fixture of Dakka





Flat brushes, and two thin coats.


Casual gaming, mostly solo-coop these days.

 
   
Made in ie
Regular Dakkanaut





Ireland

I spray using the GW rattle cans (Black or Wraithbone) and then use a thinned down paint with a big brush (one I took from my kids’ art supply box) to get the coat even (usually the underside or deep into details like chainmail or whatever. I’ve never had a problem with outside temperature - usually when it’s too cold it’s also too dark and too wet so I just wait for a better day. I shake the hell out of the can though, especially the first time I do the full recommended 5 minutes.
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut





 Horla wrote:
I spray using the GW rattle cans (Black or Wraithbone) and then use a thinned down paint with a big brush (one I took from my kids’ art supply box) to get the coat even (usually the underside or deep into details like chainmail or whatever. I’ve never had a problem with outside temperature - usually when it’s too cold it’s also too dark and too wet so I just wait for a better day. I shake the hell out of the can though, especially the first time I do the full recommended 5 minutes.


5 minutes? I should read the can
   
Made in us
Deathwing Terminator with Assault Cannon






mrFickle wrote:
 Horla wrote:
I spray using the GW rattle cans (Black or Wraithbone) and then use a thinned down paint with a big brush (one I took from my kids’ art supply box) to get the coat even (usually the underside or deep into details like chainmail or whatever. I’ve never had a problem with outside temperature - usually when it’s too cold it’s also too dark and too wet so I just wait for a better day. I shake the hell out of the can though, especially the first time I do the full recommended 5 minutes.


5 minutes? I should read the can
Yes. A lot of people heavily underestimate what constitutes a 'good shake' when using rattlecans.

They need to be shaken until you don't feel any resistance on agitator ball to a point where it feels like you're rattling a marble in an empty can.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/12/10 16:34:31


 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: