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This is my first attempt at using zenithal highlight with rattle can primers they were rustoluem brand. Didn't know if that was a normal effect or if it was humidity. They aren't chalky or bumpy to the feel.

Did you do a layer of black or grey first? The white looks a bit overpowering. I can’t see any obvious shading there.

The firstborn was orimed black and then I hit him with a light gray. The primaris was primed gray and then hit with the lighter gray over the top. I may have been to heavy on the lighter color.

Are you talking about the spottiness?

I've found that can happen with lower pressure cans. Try heating up the can (stick it in a bucket of hot water or run it under a hot tap for a few minutes). That'll increase the pressure inside the can and give better atomisation so a finer mist of paint.

It could also be humidity or colder temperatures, as those factors can make the paint start forming larger droplets in the air before it hits the model.

Another factor can be the can itself, not all cans are created equal. I know we like to hate on GW's hobby products, but their rattle cans are brilliant for things like zenithal because they create a very fine mist at high pressure that reduces the spotty finish that many other brands will have and seem to be much less sensitive to weather (I zenithal primed some models last night with GW primers, it had just rained so was super moist and cold air, half expected it to turn out badly, but in the end had zero problems). That said, I haven't used rustoleum primers (at least not in recent memory) so perhaps they're just as good as GW. I played around with Vallejo, Montana, and Liquitex sprays before finally circling back around to GW branded ones for things like zenithal priming.

I don't want to sound discouraging, but the kind of contrasts one usually looks for when doing a zenithal are not really evident in your picts. Maybe try again on other models? I'd personally practise going white over black, just to see the gradiations better, using a very light touch with the white.. Better to do it little by little, in several passes, than trying to pull off a zenithal in one pass. I'm not an expert but holding the can at a correct angle as well as distance (not as close to the model as you usually work at when priming with solid coat) is crucial?

Another one is some cans can be spitty at the start and end of a spray, so it can be a good idea to not point directly at the model initially and instead sweep the can across the model.

Also don't partially hold down the trigger, push it all the way down, cans often spit more when the trigger is only partially down.

Also, is it an old can? Sometimes cans do go bad over time (I say sometimes, because it's not a problem I've noticed myself, but something I've heard other people mention).

 tauist wrote:
Better to do it little by little, in several passes, than trying to pull off a zenithal in one pass. I'm not an expert but holding the can at a correct angle as well as distance (not as close to the model as you usually work at when priming with solid coat) is crucial?

I try to do small bursts as I am trying a quick little pass over an area. I will look at the distance, I kept it at the same distance as my normal prime jobs is it better to do it farther away?


Automatically Appended Next Post:
AllSeeingSkink I think the can is about a year or two old. I will have to remember to do the full hold down I think I tend to do a half press.

Misfittoy wrote:

 tauist wrote:
Better to do it little by little, in several passes, than trying to pull off a zenithal in one pass. I'm not an expert but holding the can at a correct angle as well as distance (not as close to the model as you usually work at when priming with solid coat) is crucial?

I try to do small bursts as I am trying a quick little pass over an area. I will look at the distance, I kept it at the same distance as my normal prime jobs is it better to do it farther away?

I'd think a bit farther would be better, as you aren't trying to get a fully opaque coat.. Shake vigorously and test spraying gradients on a piece of cardboard first? To get a better feel for the spraying motion required..

I had this exact same issue (if not even worse) with the microdotting and white paint completely overpowering the black and not giving me good results.

What I ended up getting recommended by my friend who is more of a general artist is to use an artists spray paint for graffiti work rather than a hobby or hardware store paint.

I got Montana Cans Gold series (DO not ask me why a PAINT MANUFACTURER used COLORS as a way to designate their different ranges...lmao....) Transparent White.

Rustoleum has burned me ore than a few times with primers that come out sticky, despite optimal conditions/ me shaking and rattling. While for some reason I've only found them at Micheals/ Hobby lobby now Krylon has never let me down. That said- I invested in a $40 airbrush/ mini air compressor and it's a lot better with gradations. I mean, GW will sell you 2 cans for about 50 bucks, so it's a better investment IMHO.