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I've got a Forgeworld Model that I build and painted. But the paint and primer keeps flaking off.

I was furious.... I have noticed that the area that falls off is a Shiny Resin patch. The rest of the model is clean, and uniform but the top is a different texture and now I cannot paint this or prime it because the surface doesn't key properly and it's bloody ruined...



You cannot see it on this picture but the area, is the top of his torso which has a shiny sheen, whereas the rest of the model is matt....

Anyone experienced this before? (oh and yes I do wash my Resin before I assemble it!).

Have you tried taking a fine grade of sand paper to the torso area. It will key the surface allowing the paint to grip

This your first FW model? if not ignore this.
Resin is a special cast.. thus it needed to be washed but i can see you have done that, but her's a another important question.. did you primm it correctly? a good base coat of primmer is very important in order to let the paint dry properly.

Yeah...I've done alot of FW stuff... my process.

1. Wash, clean.
2. filing, fitting, pinning and gluing.
3. Wash again. Give 48 hrs to dry.
4. Prime Black using ARMY PAINTER BLACK PRIMER.
5. Paint etc.

This is the 1st Resin model I have ever seen do this and I've made approx 30 FW type models (Marines etc). The primer isn't adhering to the Model in this area properly.

I'm probably going to sand it, and lose the detail. I might even GESSO prime it as normal primer isn't working. It's almost as if there is oil in the resin, as paint runs off in like water on a waxed car.

EDIT - Found a website that says the Shininess is Releasing agent in the resin itself, and It can take a 24 hour soak soapy water to clean it. Christ, I've washed it twice in hot soapy water for approx 1hour each time. This is frigging ridiculous.

Also there is a 1 in a 100 chance that the Release Agent has permeated into the upper layer of the Resin and is permenent, in this case cleaning in soapy water won't do anything, and I need to get in touch with Forge World for a replacement (AAAAARRRRRRRGGGGGGHHHHHHHHH!!!! Why can they not wash, and QA their F*cking stuff before it leaves the factory, it's not like it's Cheap, and I get raped by their stupid P&P policy!).

I agree with using fine grade sandpaper as I have used this when assembling/painting my krieg tanks that haven't washed properly for whatever reason.

Cheers Tim, will do this now.

That's ridiculous. I can't really help you since I don't own any FW stuff, but I'd be pissed off big time if this was my firs FW model!

If this isn't the first and it's never happened before then I take this faulty for whatever reason, I'd email them explaining and with pictures, it's too expensive to lose detail bodging.

If email fails (they've been rubbish repling recently) then try their FB page.

I'm going to speak to FW on the phone monday...Because I cannot just remove the torso (I have pinned it with Wire and glued the Torso to the Thorax / Pelvis section on wire pegs, so there is no way it's coming off) so they would have to replace the entire model, and that would annoy me because I would have to re-drill everything, and pin it all again and pose it.

Does indeed sound like a borked cast. You can also try using a solvent based cleaner - cellulose thinner or tetrachloride, see if that shifts it. Have my doubts though.

There is no such thing as a borked cast which cannot take paint. It needs a good soak in soapy water and scrub down. It shouldn't need sanding, maybe only as a last resort and using the very finest wet-and-dry paper.

I would paint it with a thin layer of PVA adhesive after cleaning. If this sticks, it will prove the surface and give a base layer for further paintin.

Gesso primer is a good choice to follow this up.

Yeah, when I say fine grade i mean fine grade, like grade 1000 wet and dry. However, when I have asked for a replacement forge world model they haven't asked for the faulty one back. So you could take advantage and try to squeeze another contemptor body out of it! Because i ordered some krieg engineers and one was missing an arm so they just sent me another engineer rather than just the arm. However a contemptor dreadnaught is a lot bigger than an engineer so i would think they would just send you the torso unfortunately.

If you only washed and let soak for 1 hour, you didn't do it long enough.

I wash and soak my resin for at least 24 hours in 'Dawn' degreaser dish soap. This is all resins. If you have a particular spot, apply the soap directly to the model.

This is common with resin models in my experience. Just have to wash them!

And you can wash assembled and primed models, some people even wash post assembly to get finger oils off.

Cleaning for 24hrs isn't washing...That is soaking or immersion.

When I go for a wash I have 4 minute shower or a 30min Bath. I certainly don't consider washing a car for 24hrs? So when I was told make sure you wash the models with hot soapy water, 24 hours certainly didn't enter my head as a reasonable time period, in fact an Hour seemed more than generous especially as I rub it for a while with an old toothbrush. Washing is the complete wrong term here, we are talking long term immersion and that is completely BS. It should be done in the factory, as it is like the industrial process is being cut short and the customer is expected to clean a product for 24 hours before use?

Oh and yes, I do wash after I have assembled, because all the handling during assembling does leave oils from your skin and contact.

 mwnciboo wrote:
Cleaning for 24hrs isn't washing...That is soaking or immersion.

When I go for a wash I have 4 minute shower or a 30min Bath. I certainly don't consider washing a car for 24hrs? So when I was told make sure you wash the models with hot soapy water, 24 hours certainly didn't enter my head.

Washing is the complete wrong term here, we are talking long term immersion and that is completely BS.

I don't know what you expect... It is the nature of 'resin' models. Different things need different methods and time periods. I wash a stain off the counter in 30 seconds, I wash a stain out of my shirt in a washer machine for an hour. Sometimes 'soaking' is a sub-set of washing. I may soak a pan with burnt-on cheese and grease in my sink overnight while I can wash BBQ sauce off a dish in 1 minute.

If this was supposed to be a blind 'I hate GW and Forgeworld Sucks, everyone watch me be angry' then title your thread better so we don't waste our breath giving you advice. People are telling you what to expect with resins. Mold Release agent sometimes requires soaking which is a form of washing... I don't wash myself in a tub for 30 minutes, I soak myself for 30 minutes, usually then I scrub the dirt after soaking as it comes off easier.

This is the exact same method as your bath example. Some items soak longer than others depending on the desired effect. The advice people are giving is to soak longer, if youw ant to complain about arbitrary classifications of 'washing' VS other terms, then enjoy your resin models which don't take paint.

I have only a few FW bits for my army, no full models. I also only have a couple of FInecast models and I have not had any issues like this. I did a dish soap wash and toothbrush scrub on all my bits and finecast models and that was enough for them. I let them soak for maybe 20 minutes tops.

Now I realize I am not adding any how to fix points because I don't have any of those. I'm just stating what my experiences have been with Resin. I will keep this thread in mind though if I do ever have any problems in the future.

I've seen this effect before, it's usually caused by a faulty resin mix. One of the component chemicals is out of spec with the other and it's "sweating" through the material. It will stop in time, but the last time I had a bad resin cast like this it was about 8 months before it stopped sweating, and I tried soaking it, priming it with Krylon Gray, you name it, I tried it. Even left it out in the sun during the summer (and Las Vegas is notoriously hot and dry in the summer) and that chemical was still sweating through until Autumn. It destroyed at least 3 paint attempts before it stopped sweating. On the bright side, stripping it clean took no effort whatsoever.

nkelsch wrote:

 mwnciboo wrote:
Cleaning for 24hrs isn't washing...That is soaking or immersion.

When I go for a wash I have 4 minute shower or a 30min Bath. I certainly don't consider washing a car for 24hrs? So when I was told make sure you wash the models with hot soapy water, 24 hours certainly didn't enter my head.

Washing is the complete wrong term here, we are talking long term immersion and that is completely BS.

I don't know what you expect... It is the nature of 'resin' models. Different things need different methods and time periods. I wash a stain off the counter in 30 seconds, I wash a stain out of my shirt in a washer machine for an hour. Sometimes 'soaking' is a sub-set of washing. I may soak a pan with burnt-on cheese and grease in my sink overnight while I can wash BBQ sauce off a dish in 1 minute.

If this was supposed to be a blind 'I hate GW and Forgeworld Sucks, everyone watch me be angry' then title your thread better so we don't waste our breath giving you advice. People are telling you what to expect with resins. Mold Release agent sometimes requires soaking which is a form of washing... I don't wash myself in a tub for 30 minutes, I soak myself for 30 minutes, usually then I scrub the dirt after soaking as it comes off easier.

This is the exact same method as your bath example. Some items soak longer than others depending on the desired effect. The advice people are giving is to soak longer, if youw ant to complain about arbitrary classifications of 'washing' VS other terms, then enjoy your resin models which don't take paint.

It is entirely unreasonable to wash something for 24hrs, this isn't a "I hate GW/FW" if anything I love the stuff I willing to shell out alot of money on this stuff, I'm not some noob to the hobby. I know how to clean, assemble, prime with a degree of confidence and expertise. If you are up there in your Ivory tower of "I wash my models for 24hrs" then good on you, but I'm afraid I think I speak for most when I say "You shouldn't have to do this?".I have plenty of Resin models from Battlefront, Flames of War and I wash my models in Hot soapy water, and I have never had a problem (approx 65 tanks in resin) and also approx 30 Forge World Marines, including larger tanks with just a quick 30-40min soak and clean pre- and post assembling with no problems.

I am listening to much of the advice on this forum but don't think I am unfamiliar with resin, this certainly isn't my 1st model. I think your post about the 24 hour wash is a little over the top but I will bear it in mind when I do my next Resin model..

@Peredyne that is indeed very odd, I am tempted to strip this one right back because the paint job is ruined. I will decide when I touch base with FW tomorrow, I'm pretty frustrated because I've already spent about 12 hours on this with the original paint job...See photo Below at the back.. Over the course of the months the paint has literally come off.

I've had trouble with mould release on resin too. Spend ages washing and scrubbing minis in warm soapy water, and walla! still won't glue or paint :/

Now I just soak them like I'm trying to strip paint off. Try fairy power spray or biostrip. They do a much better job removing the releasing agent.

Peredyne wrote:
I've seen this effect before, it's usually caused by a faulty resin mix. One of the component chemicals is out of spec with the other and it's "sweating" through the material.

QFT. This is a miscast and needs to be returned. I've seen this happen before (rarely) with my own resin mixes where I didn't stir well enough and there is a little oily slick where the uncured catalyst is permeating the resin, seeping out. I can't imagine any way of successfully painting it and you need to return it.

Haha....Shat Goblin.....Is that still going? If so I'm in. (I need to pay up and become DCM).



Long time no see Ouze how's life? Cheers for the heads up on this I will speak to FW customer services tomorrow.

i had this on a crysis suit from them . was only abit on one leg felt smooth and greesy i used some thined liquid greenstuff on it seemed to work for me .

That's an interesting one, I might try that i've got the stuff sitting there...

EDIT - Forge World Customer Services are great!

I phoned them, explained the problem, and they said "It sounds like that 1 in a 1000 thing where the oil/mould lubricant has got into the Surface Layer, it happens and it's hard to detect, we will replace the model for you as you've glued the sections."

I asked if they wanted to have the old one returned they said "No, play with it and see if you can find a way around it, we'd be interested to find out if you find a way that works reliably without losing detail or ruining the model". They suggested trying a coat of matt varnish on the model to seal in the oil and then prime. I asked about the 24 hr Wash thing, and they said well it's better safe than sorry so they would wash it for a long time too.

So I might start doing as nkelsch suggested with a 24hour soak.....

CURNOW gets my vote, I've got a replacement Contemptor and used liquid Green Stuff to overpaint the "Dodgy area".

It seems to have worked as the primer is holding.

*crosses Fingers*

Looks to have worked.

I had a shiney bit & used Fairy Power Spray - 15 minutes later & success! No more shiney shiney.
Sorry for not posting earlier.

I always varnish my resin stuff before undercoating. Varnish has a higher adhesive quality than paint. Put a coat of varnish on, dry 24hrs, undercoat spray, no problems.