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Thinking of painting one of my riptides with teal oil washes as the base color. Airbrushing a base coat of bolt gun metal > highlighting with mithril silver > teal oil washs.

So the metal looks almost teal blue do you guys think this is a good idea or is it a disaster waiting to happen? Anyone ever done this technique before as their base coat? Or does anyone know of any sample images/tutorial of this technique being used?

I would greatly appreciate any insight, I'm going to go get some oil paints a little bit

If the oil paint is completely dry it's just pigment and binder. If there is any oil left acrylics wont stick to it at all. After applying the washes I would put the model aside for at least a couple days if not a week or two to make really sure the oils are dry and even then I would give it a shot of matte sealer before applying acrylics on top.

 syypher wrote:
Thinking of painting one of my riptides with teal oil washes as the base color. Airbrushing a base coat of bolt gun metal > highlighting with mithril silver > teal oil washs.

So the metal looks almost teal blue do you guys think this is a good idea or is it a disaster waiting to happen? Anyone ever done this technique before as their base coat? Or does anyone know of any sample images/tutorial of this technique being used?

I would greatly appreciate any insight, I'm going to go get some oil paints a little bit

What you are talking about is called a "filter" which is similar to using glazes where you use thin layers of paint to shift the the color of underlying paint. It could definitely be done, except on a model the size of a Riptide it would be very time consuming. One thing you could look in to since you have an airbrush is using candy colors. There are plenty of different manufacturers out there, some are easier to find than others. I have the Badger Ghost Tints and they would work well for this. Here is a brief example of what they can do.

 LUTNIT wrote:
If the oil paint is completely dry it's just pigment and binder. If there is any oil left acrylics wont stick to it at all. After applying the washes I would put the model aside for at least a couple days if not a week or two to make really sure the oils are dry and even then I would give it a shot of matte sealer before applying acrylics on top.

If you use a paper towel to leech the linseed oil out of the paint, the dry time will decrease very much so. Even if you don't, a normal oil wash should be thin enough that an overnight dry time is more than adequate; there is no need to let it dry for a couple days, let alone a week or two.

As above you can certainly use oils to shade (and even entirely paint) models. I would always seal the model before and after an application of oil paints. Dakka has a couple of articles on using oil paints with links to other resources (sadly limited numbers of them - please feel free to add any good ones you find!).

 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
What you are talking about is called a "filter" which is similar to using glazes where you use thin layers of paint to shift the the color of underlying paint..

Filters and glazes are quite different. This article explains them very well;

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2003/01/stuff_eng_tech_afv_weathering.htm

I think more of what the op is referring to is simply just tinting metallic. I have used oils on a lot of surfaces in a lot of way and have quite a bit of experience with them. From what I have done oils on top of acrylic metallic does not work so well. I have tried several brands of metallics and the most common problem I have found is that for some reason the oil paint and accompanying thinner cause the metal flakes to shift around and reactive in a way. If you are simply looking to tint the metallic surface and you have an airbrush, why not use an ink color of your choice and build up the color intensity that you are looking for. It will be much easier and you will have far more control than you would with a wash.

Ashton

 Redfinger wrote:

 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
What you are talking about is called a "filter" which is similar to using glazes where you use thin layers of paint to shift the the color of underlying paint..

Filters and glazes are quite different. This article explains them very well;

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2003/01/stuff_eng_tech_afv_weathering.htm

I think more of what the op is referring to is simply just tinting metallic. I have used oils on a lot of surfaces in a lot of way and have quite a bit of experience with them. From what I have done oils on top of acrylic metallic does not work so well. I have tried several brands of metallics and the most common problem I have found is that for some reason the oil paint and accompanying thinner cause the metal flakes to shift around and reactive in a way. If you are simply looking to tint the metallic surface and you have an airbrush, why not use an ink color of your choice and build up the color intensity that you are looking for. It will be much easier and you will have far more control than you would with a wash.

Ashton

Yes, I am well aware that filters and glazes are different, hence why I stated they are "similar" but not the same.

If you are having trouble with oils interacting with acrylic paint, make sure the underlying layers of acrylic paint are sealed with a lacquer-based clear coat or an acrylic varnish (gloss or satin works well) to create layer of protection from the oil/thinner and the acrylic basecoat.

Yes - the thinner for oil paints eats acrylic paint - you need to seal it between layers when switching between the two.

ScootyPuffJunior wrote:

 Redfinger wrote:

 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
What you are talking about is called a "filter" which is similar to using glazes where you use thin layers of paint to shift the the color of underlying paint..

Filters and glazes are quite different. This article explains them very well;

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2003/01/stuff_eng_tech_afv_weathering.htm

I think more of what the op is referring to is simply just tinting metallic. I have used oils on a lot of surfaces in a lot of way and have quite a bit of experience with them. From what I have done oils on top of acrylic metallic does not work so well. I have tried several brands of metallics and the most common problem I have found is that for some reason the oil paint and accompanying thinner cause the metal flakes to shift around and reactive in a way. If you are simply looking to tint the metallic surface and you have an airbrush, why not use an ink color of your choice and build up the color intensity that you are looking for. It will be much easier and you will have far more control than you would with a wash.

Ashton

Yes, I am well aware that filters and glazes are different, hence why I stated they are "similar" but not the same.

If you are having trouble with oils interacting with acrylic paint, make sure the underlying layers of acrylic paint are sealed with a lacquer-based clear coat or an acrylic varnish (gloss or satin works well) to create layer of protection from the oil/thinner and the acrylic basecoat.

SilverMK2 wrote:Yes - the thinner for oil paints eats acrylic paint - you need to seal it between layers when switching between the two.

ScootyPuffJunior wrote:

 Redfinger wrote:

 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
What you are talking about is called a "filter" which is similar to using glazes where you use thin layers of paint to shift the the color of underlying paint..

Filters and glazes are quite different. This article explains them very well;

http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2003/01/stuff_eng_tech_afv_weathering.htm

I think more of what the op is referring to is simply just tinting metallic. I have used oils on a lot of surfaces in a lot of way and have quite a bit of experience with them. From what I have done oils on top of acrylic metallic does not work so well. I have tried several brands of metallics and the most common problem I have found is that for some reason the oil paint and accompanying thinner cause the metal flakes to shift around and reactive in a way. If you are simply looking to tint the metallic surface and you have an airbrush, why not use an ink color of your choice and build up the color intensity that you are looking for. It will be much easier and you will have far more control than you would with a wash.

Ashton

Yes, I am well aware that filters and glazes are different, hence why I stated they are "similar" but not the same.

If you are having trouble with oils interacting with acrylic paint, make sure the underlying layers of acrylic paint are sealed with a lacquer-based clear coat or an acrylic varnish (gloss or satin works well) to create layer of protection from the oil/thinner and the acrylic basecoat.

By virtue of the nature of acrylic paints, oil paints and thinners used for oil paints you can safely apply oil paints on top of acrylic paints, but not the other way around, unless the oil paint is fully dry. The purpose of sealing between layers with oils and acrylics is to be able to go back and clean up mistakes, create different effects, or accomplish specific techniques.

In the case of the metallic paint, it is the only time I have noticed an interaction between oil based thinners and acrylic based paints.

As far as the glaze/filter, they are not even similar. Glazes are used to create transitions and blends in colors, applied to specific areas to enhance shadows or highlights. A filter is applied to a an entire model, to change the value of the color. It is a term that comes from photography in which a filter is placed over the lens of the camera to add a warm or cool effect to the photograph.

A.

Ive used oil on top of acrylic without sealing and the thinner ate the acrylic. Granted im not the most advanced or experienced painter but that has been my experience so i always suggest sealing before and after.