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So anyone ever try to cast there "own" models. Like scratch built?

Not that I ever would but for instance like say if I wanted 30 of one type of head from some gaming company and I didnt want to drop the $ how would I go about casting this head or part.

This is for my own mind...

 

Fire in the hole!!!!

-MR.B 

Depends on the material. Resin has its own way, as does pewter. GW's pastics are pressure-moulded, meaning they put it under high pressure (the pastic) so it melts and flows into the mould via an injection system. (Don't try and melt their sprues.) If you want to get into casting, I reccomend finding a kit in the 28mm scale. I'd reccomend starting with white metal or pewter, as its easier and less dangerous.

In my shop class our teacher taught us a simple pewter cast. You need a piece of cuttlefish bone(you should be able to get it at any pet store), some pewter and a really good carving method. It worked fairly well but the end prodcut wasn't the strongest thing.

Does anyone know what type of resin Forge World uses? It's lightweight and plastic like but it's not plastic. I really don't like the heavy/hard resins that seem to be the only choice available.

I think its more than just resin--I remember someone telling me they use an additional material they add before casting to give it the properties it has--not sure though.

For information on how to do casting see the following website: http://www.hirstarts.com/

For tools and materials see: http://www.MicroMark.com/

The MicroMark kit: 82084 RESIN CASTING STARTER SET (EXPORT VERSION) is a great place to start. I have had great success casting parts using the resin in this kit.

Posted By Infantryman on 06/30/2006 5:12 AM
I think its more than just resin--I remember someone telling me they use an additional material they add before casting to give it the properties it has--not sure though.

Warped and bubbly, you mean?

Go to the Finescale Modeler's website and track down an issue from last spring; there was a great article on casting scratch parts (including a disclaimer on what kind of trouble you can get into if you cast someone else's parts for sale). They may even have the article online...  

I've actually found the ForgeWorld resin to be too brittle and easy to damage in areas. I don't know if they add too much microballoons or what, but I don't care for it.

Some of the best resins I have seen were from Smooth-On, but I don't remember which specific one to use. But many of theirs has some flex to it and is much easier to work with than brands like Verlinden and such.

-Hans

Posted By syr8766 on 06/30/2006 8:08 AM

Posted By Infantryman on 06/30/2006 5:12 AM
I think its more than just resin--I remember someone telling me they use an additional material they add before casting to give it the properties it has--not sure though.

Warped and bubbly, you mean?

Go to the Finescale Modeler's website and track down an issue from last spring; there was a great article on casting scratch parts (including a disclaimer on what kind of trouble you can get into if you cast someone else's parts for sale). They may even have the article online...  

Just a note of warning.  I went to Finescale Modeler to pick up a copy of that issue.  It'll set you back $11.  After $4.95 shipping, on a $5.50 magazine, plus tax.  Which, of course, they don't tell you about till after you've finished the transaction. 

I hope its a good article Syr

Stick to micromark...get the mold release and dont forget to talc your molds after you cast. Use regular crappy plaster for the second half of 2 part molds. The greatest thing about GW models is they are easy to cast. Just follow the mold lines present.

Get some Legos to frame the mold and a flat piece of plastic to sit it on. Clay around the edges to stop leaks...it will leak...pour quick setting crappy plaster...set part to mold line...wait...add blocks and mold maker stuff...the blue junk...wait a few hours flip the thing over...peal the plaster...add blocks and mould release...add blue mold stuff....wait till set...pull apart legos and you should be able to pull apart the mold.

If you mess up chop up blue ruber mold and add it to new molds yay. Go with high tear strength. Its worth the $$$.

Its not that cost efficient to cast some things. Once you get bigger than the FW Dreadnoughts its a bit of a waste and not worth the time. Heads weapons and Rhino doors are the easiest and most bang for the $.

Good luck.

most resins can be thinned down with rubbing alcohol wich will fill the mold easier.use one with the lowest water content.

Posted By Pernkopf on 06/30/2006 1:42 AM
In my shop class our teacher taught us a simple pewter cast. You need a piece of cuttlefish bone(you should be able to get it at any pet store), some pewter and a really good carving method. It worked fairly well but the end prodcut wasn't the strongest thing.

Cuttlefish bone? WTF?

--Chris
www.chrisvalera.com

Posted By Cruentus on 06/30/2006 12:01 PM

Posted By syr8766 on 06/30/2006 8:08 AM

Posted By Infantryman on 06/30/2006 5:12 AM
I think its more than just resin--I remember someone telling me they use an additional material they add before casting to give it the properties it has--not sure though.

Warped and bubbly, you mean?

Go to the Finescale Modeler's website and track down an issue from last spring; there was a great article on casting scratch parts (including a disclaimer on what kind of trouble you can get into if you cast someone else's parts for sale). They may even have the article online...  

Just a note of warning.  I went to Finescale Modeler to pick up a copy of that issue.  It'll set you back $11.  After $4.95 shipping, on a $5.50 magazine, plus tax.  Which, of course, they don't tell you about till after you've finished the transaction. 

I hope its a good article Syr

Its the May 2005 issue.  It has a 1/32 scale CF-18 on the cover, with a small Tamiya Tiger tank pic in the upper right.  On the cover it says: How to Cast Your Own Resin Parts.  Can't miss it

The article is pretty good, and gives examples of a single piece cast, and a two-part mold.  Most of the article sounds like what Ginn posted above, but its nice for me to have the pictures step by step to go with it

It does include Legos and the Micromark casting set as its materials.

And there is a half-page 'talk' about casting parts and copyright.