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No Lie. this stuff is amazing. I just read this last night, today i put some figs in the LA Amazing 1$ at dollar tree, and three hours later some of the heaviest paint and glue ever are just melting off my model. it does seem to have weakened the plastic a little bit but since this model was a throw away, making it salvageable is bomb. seriously this stuff rocks.

It might seem like it does at first, but only to really skinny models. I noticed on those Crons I soaked, a couple were in there awhile, and their ankles seemed a little weaker then normal. But after it all dries up, that goes away. The SM I soaked, didnt notice a thing wrong with that guy. But then again, most of those Crons didnt feel weaker at all, so maybe it depends on the actual model in question.

This guid is one of the best on dakka! Love it man!

I love it, My wife all ready buys awesome from the dollar store, and I have some imperial guard I want to repaint. I don't have to go anywhere to try this. "Awesome" painting tip!

Cheers lads, I wanted to start a revolution, but no one was into walking around with no pants and wearing just sport jackets. At least this one took off

Great tut KC... will have to look for that!

Question. How do you dispose of the degreaser when you are done?

Its non toxic, and made from natural ingredients so you can just flush it down the toilet or flush it down the drain.

LA's totally awesome is the best cleaner that i've found, it works amazing.

It's sold at the dollar store here for huge jugs, which works out nice.

only thing i would add is in the pictures i noticed you didnt have glove on. I would highly suggest it, working with harsh chemicals doesn't really have short term effects besides maybe some skin irritation if enough exposure is taken but could have long term effects, but its just me being paranoid. working around chemicals get you weary of what some of them can do.

Its been mentioned yea. I can tell ya, you definitely want to wear gloves. It didnt eat my skin or anything like that, but they certainly felt weird for awhile . So if I get some insane brain tumor in my 50s, Ill know why.

Interesting, ive always used oven cleaner to strip my models, it smells awful and you need gloves but damn does it ever work.

This may have already been addressed, but my powers of skimming have turned up nothing. Will this affect green stuff or liquid green? Already cured of course.

Ever since I saw this thread, I have used LATA to great effect. It has stripped everything with ease, however I usually leave them in the solution for about 2 days (depends on what paint was used and size of model.) There has been marines, guard, orks, and tau, infantry and vehicles, and it all comes clean. Granted everything stripped had a GW chaos black hand brushed primer. Depending on if anyone knows how this will effect liquid green, I will soon test LATA's effectiveness on minis with an Army Painter grey spray primer.

Hmm, It seems to hold some of the bonds.
Also, I can removie krylon in 6 hours or less.

ChocorateMirk wrote:This may have already been addressed, but my powers of skimming have turned up nothing. Will this affect green stuff or liquid green? Already cured of course.

the only problem ive had is if the greenstuff isnt properly attached ( not sure if it wasn't enough glue or if i didn't mold it enough or what) but i had a few pieces of green stuff come unattached after letting it soak for more than a day

ChocorateMirk wrote:This may have already been addressed, but my powers of skimming have turned up nothing. Will this affect green stuff or liquid green? Already cured of course.

Id say, take a junk mini, toss some GS or liquid green on it, throw a few layers of paint on and see what happens.

I'm going through some stuff that is ancient primer and paint and it's coming slowly but surely.

KingCracker wrote:Cheers lads, I wanted to start a revolution, but no one was into walking around with no pants and wearing just sport jackets. At least this one took off

You mean we're not doing this anymore? Why didn't anyone tell me?


OT, I've used this on a number of metal and plastic minis, most of them in pretty bad shape, and its worked better than anything else I've tried (simple green, purple power, etc.). I still think I'd stay with thinner or pinesol for metals, but this can't be beat for plastics. In many cases, it has even removed primer, which I guess depends a lot on the primer (GW vs armoury vs walmart vs auto primer).

I really can attest to this! It is the best stuff you can find if you are a cheap guy like me!

AK907554 wrote:Does anyone know of any other effective chemicals for stripping that can be found in america?

Yes. What I've personally used:

Acetone: great, but use on metal only. Acetone eats plastic. Dissolves superglue and epoxy over time, which may be a good thing.
Simple Green: sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. My P&M blog goes into more detail about that...the not working part.
Castrol Superclean: it's got a different name now and possibly a different formula. 6 years ago this stuff was great. Last year it didn't work at all.
Carb cleaner: same rules as acetone, not as good.
Pinesol/pine oil: thin it way down or keep the soak times very short with plastic, as it will attack styrene over time. Fine on metal. Smells wonderful.
Paint thinner/ mineral spirits/ kerosene: kinda works on enamels, not as good on acrylics. Don't bother.

And my current favorite? 91% isopropyl alcohol. I really wish that someone had told me about this twenty years ago. It's cheap and it works on every paint (acrylic, enamel, whatever) that I've tested it on except for one*, usually in hours. It doesn't hurt anything. Cheap. Dries on its own quickly. This has been my weapon of choice since I've tried it.

* I got some Chinese railroad miniatures to use as civilians in Deathwatch for next to nothing. They were not nicely painted so I tried various stripping measures. None of the above worked. The plastic dissolves before the paint does. I have some that have been in Simple Green and alcohol for over a year now (haven't gotten around to dealing with them yet) and the paint hasn't been affected. I've since begun just touching them up and hitting them with a Future wash and calling it good.

I haven't tried the LATA yet but I'll give it a shot.

This is awesome, I can't wait to try it with my black painted models and see if they can be converted to Imperial Fists

How long do you soak your models for? I've been usin simple green and usually wait a week so it's fully striped of paint

Has anyone tried this on finecast?

...Does it work?

I use the break fluid for removing the paint of my mini. It's good.

I REALLY need to know if this will affect Finecast.

Can someone please tell me if they had any experience?

I've never stripped any models before, and god knows i've got a lot to do. Do you know if this stuff is safe with fartcast? I do not like finecast at all, but when it comes to eldar I don't get much choice. They're hard enough to find as it is in my area.

I decided to go ahead and take one of my crappiest finecast model for a bath. The stuff works fine on finecast, as far as I can tell there is no ill effects on the model. Like the plastic models it feels a little flimsier while its still wet, but that goes away after drying it. I also feel the need to emphasize how important it is to wear gloves while working with this stuff. I made the mistake of buying gloves too small then decided to go without, long story short my fingers got so dried out so fast that they almost cracked open.

Vendetta 476 wrote:I REALLY need to know if this will affect Finecast.

Can someone please tell me if they had any experience?

Paint finecast sprue, soak sprue, see what happens.

I've used a product that looks very similar to this in the UK. Its advertised as a cleaner for things like bbq grills where you leave the grill in a sealable bag with some of this stuff and its comes out shiny clean. Can't remember the name of it for the life of me, but I'm pretty sure it came from a Wilkinsons store.

I just stripped a FW Macharius Vanquisher (awesome tank) with super clean, which I beleive it chemically stronger then LATA. So logically LATA should be ok for FW. Also Im stripping some finecast stuff and it doesnt appear to harm in it any way. Ive also embarked on a great undertaking. I am stripping 13000-14000 points of IG for a good friend. Including about 60 vehicles. I am doing this with LATA. And it appears to be working very well. I bought about 62 32oz bottles totaling roughly 15 and a half gallons of LATA. Super clean is my favorite stripping agent ( not stripper ) but if i used it on this massive ordeal it would cost upwards of 170 bucks. I did it for around 80 dollars. Im gonna let the stuff soak for around 36 hours and then go to work

I posted here before and took this stripper one step further. I used this with my Ultrasonic cleaner. 1/2hr stripping on most models and done.

This stuff really works

I'll post pictures later when time allows.

Adam