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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2008/12/28 23:17:12
Subject: Working with Resin
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Grisly Ghost Ark Driver
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So after gaining a bit of extra cash from Christmas,I finally broke down and ordered the Forgeworld Bloodthirster. I Have never worked with resin before so I am sure I am in for a very frustrating time trying to build this model when it arrives in a few weeks. What exactly am I going to need to do in order to prepare this model for building and painting? Thanks for your help.
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Falcon Punch!
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2008/12/28 23:43:26
Subject: Working with Resin
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Stormin' Stompa
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Figures are usually better than vehicles - a little warpage shouldn't affect its ability to go together much. Look up the relevant Dakka article.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2008/12/29 10:38:24
Subject: Working with Resin
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Rampaging Furioso Blood Angel Dreadnought
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Hey ex. Sorry I couldn't get a game in against you this last time I was home. I'm back offshore now, but we have to throw dice next time.
Bloodthirster, eh? Excellent choice, it's a good model. There is a dakka article, and it's a great place to start. Let us know if you have any further questions, dakka will deliver.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2008/12/29 10:55:56
Subject: Working with Resin
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Rampaging Furioso Blood Angel Dreadnought
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Well crap, I THOUGHT there was an article, now I can't find it! Anyone care to linky?
As far as materials, you will need a toothbrush, clean running water, gentle cleaning agent for the mold release, hobby knife, hobby files, stove top, pot large enough to hold any single piece of the model comfortably, greenstuff, super glue, primer. Crap, I've forgotten something.
Clean the peices up with a good scrubbing. Running water, tooth brush, cleaning agent such as dish soap.
Hobby knife and files are for mold lines. Greenstuff is for inevitable holes and airpockets FW decides to have in their products at random. Inexcusable, really, but there.
Some peices, note wings, might be warped. Boil it on the stove. Remove from water, gently bend back into shape. Resin pieces can be boiled to soften them, but will harden quickly. Don't rush, but don;'t stop for lunch. If it sets too quick, you can always re-boil.
Super glue sticks it together. More greenstuff for the gaps. Primer essential to get paint to stick.
Now, for someone to decry some of my choices.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2008/12/29 16:22:12
Subject: Working with Resin
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Grisly Ghost Ark Driver
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Thanks alot grizgrin. I can already see that the bloodthirster is going to take forever to put together. But it will be worth it. Good luck offshore, we will get in a game when you get back.
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Falcon Punch!
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2008/12/29 17:10:34
Subject: Working with Resin
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Longtime Dakkanaut
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I definately recommend the 'cleaning' to remove the mold release...yeah, just don't ask.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2008/12/29 19:23:13
Subject: Re:Working with Resin
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Longtime Dakkanaut
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Hello,
Resin tips.
1)Wear a face mask.Resin dust is really bad for you.
2)Needle files and sand paper.Fine grade.
3)You may need something to wash the shiny surface off.
I worked with a type of resin which required acetone
to wash the shiny surface layer.You only need to submerge
the model for 30 seconds or less.Any longer and the
model will disentegrate!Also check with FW to see if it
is safe to use acetone.Failing that,hot water with
soap detergent.
AND REMEMBER THE MASK,RESIN DUST IS HARMFUL!!
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2008/12/30 04:01:08
Subject: Working with Resin
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Rampaging Furioso Blood Angel Dreadnought
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Ex, put acetone on that model and I'll hurt you. Try something a lot gentler. If you are insistant about trying the acetone, try a test drop on the bottom of a foot or soemthing. Watch for melt, softening, other signs of badness.
Never seen the pieces, but be prepared to pin the crap out of it. A pin vise will work, but a dremel is much better. If you can get one, use it. Plenty people round Borderlands have them, I have a few. Even got one with a bit I use for pinning all chucked up on the computer table at home. If you need it let me know. If you end up using it, us paper clips to make the pins; the bit is selected for that.
MUCHO agree with slipstream, resin dust very bad. get a particle mask from home depot.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2008/12/30 04:02:24
Subject: Working with Resin
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Rampaging Furioso Blood Angel Dreadnought
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When is this thing due to arrive? I'd love to see it before it gets worked on, but am not sure when I am getting home. If I get home before it arrives, I can run you through all the stuff you'll need to know to work on it and do a stellar job. Just stay away from your Krylon lol.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2008/12/30 19:25:16
Subject: Working with Resin
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Grisly Ghost Ark Driver
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Thanks for the tips. I think I will scrub it instead of using acetone. I do not want to accidentally melt the thing. The bloodthirster should arrive in about two weeks. But, this is forgeworld we are talking about, so It may not come until February.
I do not have any experience pinning. If there has ever been something I could not glue in the past I have just propped it in lace and simply used more glue. But that probably is not the best idea for the Bloodthirster.
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Falcon Punch!
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2008/12/30 23:50:24
Subject: Working with Resin
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Rampaging Furioso Blood Angel Dreadnought
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You are very wise, oh he of the spray foam monolith. Prop and glop=bad idea. Great way for the glue to run and start filling in detail. For large parts like wings and such, that usu. come with a sizable recess in the main body made for mating up to a tab on the wing itself, I have been known to pin a few times as appropriate, and then use 5 minute epoxy. You have to be extraordinarily careful, but between the epoxy and the pins, you will never ever have to worry about the structural integrity of the joint. As far as how much epoxy to use, I can only say that it's tricky. You cannot use too much, for it will leak out when the fit is seated. You cannot use too little, for it will not fill enough of the internal gaping to make a decent bond. It must be "just right", however there is a little leeway in what that constitutes. Several dry fits after proper cleaning will show you the way.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2008/12/31 04:51:24
Subject: Re:Working with Resin
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Decrepit Dakkanaut
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yea man pinning is your friend! ive seen a few people build and assemble FW monstrosities and ive seen as much as 4 pins in a single joint to hold them suckers together. its really about as simple as a process can get. you drill holes, insert pin, dab paint on pin ends, dry fit, drill out the dots of paint on OTHER joint , dry fit, then glue the two parts together. good luck amigo!
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2009/02/16 04:32:47
Subject: Re:Working with Resin
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Grisly Ghost Ark Driver
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So I finally finished building the Bloodthirster. ITS SUCH A HUGE MODEL!! It will take me forever to paint.
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Falcon Punch!
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2009/02/16 04:53:23
Subject: Working with Resin
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Slippery Ultramarine Scout Biker
Deathbridge, Hellberta, Canada.
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Damn i do love them large FW models. Good on ya for the gap filling too, would hate to spend the money and time on building, painting etc only too see a huge gap in his arm heheh.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2009/02/16 07:36:31
Subject: Working with Resin
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Sneaky Sniper Drone
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That looks cool! Ive never used resin either, but I don't plan to anyway  keep up the good work!
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This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2009/02/16 07:37:58
ARMY IN MASSIVE PROGRESS:

ARMIES IN MINI PROGRESS:
founding chapter named the Roaring Eagles.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2009/02/16 08:26:01
Subject: Re:Working with Resin
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Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws
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Resin working is painful, I've been hoping someone would try this stuff and post the results.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2009/02/16 08:36:45
Subject: Working with Resin
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Infiltrating Oniwaban
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Nice start. Were you fixing a serious error on one of the horns, or did you lose the part?
Jabbakahut, I checked out that Plutonium G site. I'll run the product by my spray testing squad (my thuggish graffiti artist brother, who I enlist for anything involving a spraycan) and post his professional opinion in a separate thread.
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This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2009/02/16 08:39:09
Infinity: Way, way better than 40K and more affordable to boot!
"If you gather 250 consecutive issues of White Dwarf, and burn them atop a pyre of Citadel spray guns, legend has it Gwar will appear and answer a single rules-related question. " -Ouze |
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2009/02/16 20:34:13
Subject: Working with Resin
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Grisly Ghost Ark Driver
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I lost the horn...
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Falcon Punch!
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2009/02/16 21:08:48
Subject: Working with Resin
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Decrepit Dakkanaut
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HOLY F***
that is one fine model
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2009/02/16 22:21:03
Subject: Re:Working with Resin
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Battleship Captain
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I are scared of that beast.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2009/02/16 22:58:05
Subject: Working with Resin
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Hardened Veteran Guardsman
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I saw someone paint that thing pink and white, hearts on the wings, put clouds on the bottom and replace the weapon with a fairy wand. He did it to piss off people, I just think he is stupid for doing that.
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-7k
-3k Watch my guys die in the tens per turn!
2k with fancy lava bases!
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2009/02/21 12:48:42
Subject: Working with Resin
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Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws
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thekyle1231 wrote:I saw someone paint that thing pink and white, hearts on the wings, put clouds on the bottom and replace the weapon with a fairy wand. He did it to piss off people, I just think he is stupid for doing that.
If it was painted really well, than that is too funny.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2009/02/21 12:55:53
Subject: Re:Working with Resin
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Decrepit Dakkanaut
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NICE! Always loved that model.
As for the fairythirster........ man Id laugh everytime it killed me
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