Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I tend to spend a great deal of time carefully painting my armies. I generally focus on the Best Painted Award rather than the Best General Award when I compete in a tournament. However, my son and I typically play a game or two of 40K a week using a wide variety of armies (as I have purchased way too many models). As a consequence, I have way too many models which are only primed.

I decided to take a different, less careful painting approach to the various chaos models littering my playing table and at the same time, create my first Dakka P&M blog. For the CSM, I decided to paint a Khorne + Nurgle list.

A Khorne Chaos Lord was my first attempt at fast painting. It was a complete failure: I took way too much time with it.




Automatically Appended Next Post:
For the troops, I needed a quicker approach.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
I decided that I wanted to make my CSM look like an immediate post-Heresy Death Guard, so that they could also count as plague marines as well.






Automatically Appended Next Post:
The fast approach I used was:

1. Used the airbrush to give all the models a base coat in Vallejo Model Air Rust.
2. I then sprayed hairspray onto the models.



3. After the hairspray had dried, I airbrushed Vallejo Model Air Tan (the main colour for the CSM) onto the models.
4. With a somewhat stiff brush drenched in warm water, I brushed the models at various places where I wanted the rust to show up through the tan. The warm water dissolves the hairspray (and the tan paint on top of it) and creates a quick and easy weathering effect.
5. Once happy with the look, the models were sprayed with matte varnish, ready for the remaining painting.






Automatically Appended Next Post:
6. Add other detailing and then some washes.



All done in a few hours!

Very nice tip there with the hairspray. I imagine all hairspray's should be basically the same makeup of chemicals so it shouldnt matter what brand you use?

Its a great way of getting your models painted very quickly and produces some very interesting results by the look of your models.

Great tip about using hairspray! Really simple way to paint death guard.

I really like your Khorne Chaos Lord too.

Cheers,

Jack.

I had a few unpainted rhinos kicking around, so I decided to add them to the death guard army. I used a slightly different top color, but I used the same hair spray technique.



Unfortunately, the clear matte sealer spray came out white rather than clear (perhaps because of the humidy, I don't know). As a result, the front of the vehicle had big white splotches; with some washes, they turned yellow, which at least fits. Luckily, it is okay for death guard vehicles to look untidy ...



Still need to use filters, washes, and pigments.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
I used the same hair spray approach with my terminators (whose colour matches the Rhino). However, the contrast between the rust and the armour green is too low and hard to see via a photo. The metal was washed with thinned GW washes (mud, purple, green).



The brass was washed with very thin turquoise paint to create a rusted look.

A Khorne Chaos Lord was my first attempt at fast painting. It was a complete failure....

sir or mad'am, if that model is a complete failure, then i will find you and show you your own model, it is great imo, i want a model like that.

LordBoJangles wrote:sir or mad'am, if that model is a complete failure, then i will find you and show you your own model, it is great imo, i want a model like that.

Hey thanks. What I meant was that I spent almost a week painting that one model. That is, i was painting in my normal style: slow and carefully. So from a fast painting perspective it was a failure! I'm trying to get a CSM and a daemon army painted reasonably quickly so I needed some different techniques than the normal layering.

For instance, here are a unit of flamers that I tried to paint reasonably quickly using the usual layering with very thin paints.



Now that took too long. I had a unit of six chaos spawn that I picked up for next to nothing on eBay. I wanted to use them as Fiends for my Daemon army (since I hate the metal Fiend model). For these, I took a completely different approach:

1. spray paint white
2. use a variety of the new washes with a broad brush and a bit of wet blending.





Now this was fast. Ten minutes for the entire squad. I just have to decide whether to give them a second coat. I also have to do some detailing (such as teeth and claws) yet.

3. Washed them a second time





4. Added some detailing





All done. There are places where I'm not completely satisifed with the way the washes turned out, but by and large, it was a very quick way of completing a unit that would have taken me a long time to paint in my usual style.

Today was a happy day as a package arrived from Ultraforge containing a Greater Wardemon and a Greater Plaguedemon. The packing was a bit sketchy but the product is amazing. The resin is much harder than what you get from ForgeWorld. It feels more like plastic. At any rate, here is a picture of the plaguedemon with a plaguebearer for scale.

Is the tournament your going to a official GW event??.

If so then I doubt you'll be able to use the Wardaemon and the Plaguedaemon as they are not GW models not even as proxies for a Bloodthirster and a Great Unclean One.

On another note great work.

If I am at an official GT, I'll use my witch hunter army. In my city, there are two or three tournaments a year with 30-40 contestants, and the organizers are easy going about the rule about non-GW models (though I will also bring the regular GW GUO and BT just in case the opponents have an issue with them). Thanks for the comment!

The other model from Ultraforge I received was their Greater Wardemon, which I will use as a Bloodthirster. I've included a photo that shows the relative sizes between the Ultraforge model and the regular GW Bloodthirster. The Ultraforge model does fit nicely on a standard 60mm base.

Coooool, I love it when a bad thing turns out so great, I love the yellow on the rhino.

Here is the Ultraforge Wardemon primed up ready for painting.

Please don't speed-paint him. It's such a great model.

Don't worry, I can't bear to speed paint it either!

Here, by the way, is the (almost) finished Ultraforge Greater Plaguedemon.





I'm still trying to figure out how I want to finish the sword. Any suggestions?

Drybrush a rusty color on the corroded parts on the blunt side of the blade?

I was going to try a watered down metallic iron and then wash with a few colors, finishing with a bit of a turquoise wash for the rusted effect, somewhat similar to the effect on my plaguebearers.

Earlier in this blog, I showed two rhinos in which I used the hairspray weathering technique. I recently finished these two vehicles. The first finishing step was filtering. The idea behind filtering is to modulate the flat areas of color on the vehicle to create a more realistic variance.

This step consisted of using two or three MIG filters and then using dots of oil paint and then blending them with turpentine/spirits/oil thinner.




Automatically Appended Next Post:
The last steps in finishing these tanks was to use a variety of different MIG pigments. These pigments can be used to add a dusty coating. Eventually these pigments will come off on your fingers so they need to be fixed to the vehicle using pigment fixer (thinner).

Finally, I decided I wanted to experiment and add some mud to the bottom of the vehicle and its tracks. I mixed a variety of pigments, plaster, and MIG Resin and then added it to the model. The more resin added to the mix, the more wet the resulting mud (see the second rhino in this post). The resin and plaster make the mud hard and a permament part of the model.

the plague demon lokks awesome man nice work! :thumjavascript:emoticon('');bsup:

I can't believe you can speed paint it yet make it look that awesome .. :(

I would use some pigments on the blade for the rust. You get great results using two different shades. a darker brown and a muddy orange. There's a guy on here who has a video on painting an ultraforge daemon. Try and youtube it. Its really cool.

I have to say that I just stumbled on your CSM in the gallery, and searched out a tread to see how you painted them, but this thread is great.

Some good ideas on painting things fast but still retaining a great standard of painting at the end.

Great work

I had a crazy busy week of painting in the lead up to a tournament back in October. After I finished the night before, I haven't touched a brush for over a month now. I'll post a few pictures of how some of these units looked once they were all done and get myself motivated for some more painting.

For this tournament, I decided to go with daemon princes instead of soul grinders. Here is the first one.



I was surprised at how many people asked me for the translation for the text on the banner!

The technique I used for the banner was:

1. Using posterboard, cut out the shape for the banner
2. twist/bend it into desired shape.
3. Quickly spread thin white glue on one side
4. Let it dry completely.
5. Do steps 3-4 one or two more times
6. Do steps 3-5 for the other side
7. paint it up
8. glue onto model

I used the same technique (as described above) with the banner in my Bloodcrusher unit. In this case, the banner counts as my chaos icon.



Unfortunately, in the rush the night before the tournament, I painted the turquoise background a bit too thick.

In an earlier post, I showed the base-coated Greater Demon from Ultraforge. It was a bit of a rush finishing it in time for the tournament, but here it is. I used it as my Bloodthirster. Perhaps because of its great size, it certainly was the number one fire magnet in every game.



I wanted to get a slightly vertiginous-looking bronze look. The camera flash used in the picture makes the metal look quite shiny but it is in fact quite matte. I painted a thin gold metal color overtop snake bit leather and then used a variety of very thin turquoise, green, and brown washes with gold+metal medium and then silver highlights.

The saddest part of the whole tournament was that my army was competing with another army for the best painted award, which is done after all the games are done. I had to take my son to his soccer game, and so I decided to leave my army behind for the judging and let the tournament organizer pack it up. The result when I unpacked it when I got home: this demon had his sword snapped off, and my nurgle deamon prince from an earlier post had his arm snapped off. Never let someone else pack your models!

As for the best painted, I finished second. In our local tournaments the fantasy players vote for best painted 40k and vice versa. The result is that the 40K armies that are painted quite bright and fantasy-like tend to win, while more "realistic" painting approaches don't. At any rate, I had no complaints since my army was by and large painted using quick painting techniques. I am broken hearted about the broken sword ...

That is truly a bummer about placing second, and most definitely about the 2 ultraforge daemons!!!!!!! However I must say I really like the skin on the Ultraforge Bloodthirster... it looks very very gruesome imo. Well done sir!

For speed painting, this stuff looks pretty good.

I particularly like the rhino, and the war-daemon (not exactly 'speed-painted' I know, but efficiently executed, with a very nicely-textured result.)

It would be interesting to see an army shot, for the cumulative impact.

Thanks for the comments! Tinfoil, I've followed your daemon army blog and am lovin' your blood crushers.

At any rate, here is the war daemon from another angle. Also, I should fess up and state that this model was by no means speed painted (except perhaps the wings). I easily did 8-9 layers of thin paint for the skin with many extremely thin washes.

Looking great! I love that hairspray technique - I also saw it on Antman's plague marines and it just looks better and better.

Love that technique you used for your Plague Marines armor. Gotta get an airbrush going for my next batch.

Greater Wardemon looking awesome as well. Best one I've seen so far.

- Blackbone