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Basically i am fed up stupid brushy Citadel super glue, not only is it medocre but in recnet months i've been finding the bottles dryign out even when kept ouf o the sun an din a cool place, os i've decided its time for change. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good superglue which A) doesn't take ages to dry, B) isn't ridiculously thick and C) isn't ot much a bitchj to clear up off a model if i make any mistakes.

thansk for the help guys.

I use Krazy Glue - Gel. It is thick, but it takes an extremely small dab and dries in less than 10 seconds on plastics. It leaves something to be desired with speed on metal models, but I have found that with most glues.

Loctite super glue Ultra Gel for me. Comes in a teensy tube, so doesn't last long enough to dry out. Damn sight better than the GW unsuper glue but not the cheapest around.

Loctite for me as well. I use the super-glue 3 (comes in a triangular bottle). Easy to apply precisely, so no need to cldean up afterwards .

I'm in for Loctite myself, completing the hat trick. The gel stuff is awesome. Requires next to nothing to stick plastic together, and the freezer trick works well on it in case you need some stuff to come apart. Oh, and it's cheap. Two small tubes ( 6 oz total ) run about 3 USD. Typically I always grab a pack when I go anywhere that sells it. Longevity in the unsealed tube leaves something to be desired, but thats the nature of the stuff. After you unseal it, it's got a lifespan. Theoretically it still has a lifespan sealed, but we're talking orders of magnitude longer.

I use Gw super glue and depending on the metal parts i use something called insta set which instantly sets the glue . So its great for those sharp pointy parts. Sorry I realise this isn't much help

Krazy glue gel and zip kicker, here. Metal is always kind of a pain, but if you pin it, it should be fine.

I use a gentic brand of superglue, maxi cure, Insta cure, thin cure.... depends on what i want to use it for.. its cheaper and you get alot of glue for half the price of GW. Also i use accelerator called Insta set( which sets the glue instantly)

Necroagogo wrote:Loctite super glue Ultra Gel for me.

same here

I use Jet and zip kicker if needed. Jet comes in a variety of thicknesses and I have never had a problem with its dry speed, durability, or anything of that nature.

I use Zap a Gap. I get 2 oz for about 12 USD at my flgs. Better than the 1oz for 9 USD for the citadel super glue. Its a way faster bond as well pretty much instant even on metals.

Superglue from anywhere else will be superior in terms of amount paid to quantity AND effectiveness.

GWs superglue is just someone else's stuff with a flashy GW sticker on it - you are paying more for that label.

I use zap, myself, mostly - as the loctite is harder to get.

I think i can safely say that every generic hobby product that you can find for like 1/3 of the price always end up better quality than GW's.

And no im not trolling GW company.

Loctite Super Glue Easy Brush, comes with a small nylon brush built into the cap which by some process I don't understand (and I'm a chemist!) never sticks to anything, just applies glue exactly where you need it, it makes it really easy to apply a thin layer too- with super glue the thinner the layer the stronger the bond. Also I've have had less stuck finger incidents with this type than the multitude of others I've tried.

Another vote for Loctite Super Glue (with the brush applicator). It bonds a lot faster than Citadel glue, and sets very well. Citadel Superglue is pretty awful.

I like Zap a Gap or Gorilla Superglue for metal to metal or plastic to metal joints. I use Testors for Plastic.

loctite, any kind of loctite. that stuff's great.

I use Loctite® Frustration Free Applicators Super Glue Control™ Gel.

It bonds great to plastic, cleans up great, and is very easy to use. Also, if you take a bit of this glue and spread it out in a thin layer on a metal piece and the plastic piece first it will give the second application of the glue an area to bond the metal to plastic wonderfully. While it is not as strong as pinning all my Oblits are held together with this glue with no pinning and they survived Adepticon. Also, there is very little fumes, Doesn't dry out if left out for awhile without its cap on and will not leak out. The best thing is that it is cheap for what it does. It is more expensive then the small tubes of cheap glue but once you use this you will never go back.

I use Loctite myself, though I don't really like the Gel one, I prefer liquids with a brush applicator (not only for SG, but for Poly Cement too).

Luckily, I haven't knocked it over and spilt it, unlike with my Poly Cement.

I just use cheap super glue when I use it. An alternative is testors plastic glue. That stuff rocks on the plastic. The only downside is, if you want to change the mini after the glue dries, you either forget it, or you have to cut it apart, because it doesnt break like super glue.

As for metal, you should ALWAYS pin those together, even on plastic. Thats just a given

I use testors plastic cement on plastics, and zap a gap green label for metals. All pieces though I scour first so the adhesives ahve something to grip into.

KingCracker wrote:As for metal, you should ALWAYS pin those together, even on plastic. Thats just a given

Well, I normally pin all my metal models but for some reason the white metal that my oblits were made out of (which I did get stright from the GW website) were so hard that they broke three of my drill bits. I have never seen metal models so hard and dense as these. I first used my pin vise which broke the first two bits and a low speed dremel which just wore down and then broke the last drill bit. Before you say it the first bit was old then the last two were new out of the package. I even got the bits that were designed to drill into metal. I have been working with metal GW products since the end of 2nd Ed and never saw such a thing before.

Pipboy101 wrote:

KingCracker wrote:As for metal, you should ALWAYS pin those together, even on plastic. Thats just a given

Well, I normally pin all my metal models but for some reason the white metal that my oblits were made out of (which I did get stright from the GW website) were so hard that they broke three of my drill bits. I have never seen metal models so hard and dense as these. I first used my pin vise which broke the first two bits and a low speed dremel which just wore down and then broke the last drill bit. Before you say it the first bit was old then the last two were new out of the package. I even got the bits that were designed to drill into metal. I have been working with metal GW products since the end of 2nd Ed and never saw such a thing before.

My Kanns were direct order and also shattered 2 small bits when I was drilling to pin. I also use Zap A Gap and zip kick.

I tend to use cheapish tarzans grip. It sticks fine with pinning (most of the time, the times it doesn't it usually my fault) but the lid clogs up something chronic, it's one of those horrible plastic ones on the foil tubes. <.< So I've sort of gotten into the bad habit of just nicking the tube itself with a tiny cut once the lid has irrepairably jammed, I usually work from a small puddle rather than attempting to glue straight onto the model anyway and the small amount that oozes out tends to be a good amount to glue a few models and leave just enough to dry and seal the hole back up nicely. Terrible practise, but hey, it works.

Morgrim wrote:So I've sort of gotten into the bad habit of just nicking the tube itself with a tiny cut once the lid has irrepairably jammed, I usually work from a small puddle rather than attempting to glue straight onto the model anyway

Just try not to ::headdesk:: and you'll be fine.

I tend to use the cheap stuff in the little yello bottles that sais "super glue" in red lettering. It can be found almost anywhere, and can last forever if stored propperly.


With any super glue, I find that quality can almost always be inconsistant. Some bottles will stick to fingers better than plastic, even if its the same brand. It could just be the material GW uses, as I've noticed a switch in a plastic formula over the years.

malfred wrote:

Morgrim wrote:So I've sort of gotten into the bad habit of just nicking the tube itself with a tiny cut once the lid has irrepairably jammed, I usually work from a small puddle rather than attempting to glue straight onto the model anyway

Just try not to ::headdesk:: and you'll be fine.

I don't have enough exposed desk to do that...

I have recently become a fan of Gorilla Superglue. I know it seems gimmicky but it really does work.

I glued together a Gnoblar Scraplauncher without pinning it and it has held up great. I also put together a Lictor without pins the other day and it is just solid.

Before switching over to Gorilla I had been using the Yellow bottle superglue from Hobby Lobby.

I know the Gorilla 'Superglue' is not supposed to expand - but in my experience it does. I've had very disappointing and frustrating results with Gorilla on detail items (like anything 40k range).

I use Zap-a-Gap... it works fine for me.

I'm just finishing off a bottle of UHU Super Glue. It's a very think gel and was very good to begin with, but I think it has gone off recently meaning the adhesion is poor. I have had the tube over a year though.