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Made in pl
Kelne





Warsaw, Poland

Hi, 2 questions:

What are the official measurements of a gaming table for Warh 40k ? Is it 6x8 Feet, since I remember reading something like that.

Also, assuming these are correct, how much space outside of the gaming space would you add for outflanking models , place to put beer and codices at, models standing in reserves or just in plain buffer space to the official table requirements?

The reason I'm asking this is that I want to scratch-build a gaming table for my group to put in my new apartment.
   
Made in gb
Hanging Out with Russ until Wolftime







Alkasyn wrote:Hi, 2 questions:

What are the official measurements of a gaming table for Warh 40k ? Is it 6x8 Feet, since I remember reading something like that.

Also, assuming these are correct, how much space outside of the gaming space would you add for outflanking models , place to put beer and codices at, models standing in reserves or just in plain buffer space to the official table requirements?

The reason I'm asking this is that I want to scratch-build a gaming table for my group to put in my new apartment.
6x4 is the standard table size.

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6x4 is the standard.

What you want for additional space depends on what you plan to put there.
If it's just beer/dice/units you probably only need 4-6" or so, but a full rulebook or codex would need a foot or more at least. Make sure you can reach every part of the table easily if you plan to add an edge that large. Perhaps a section that sticks out more or a cubby underneath on both sides specifically to hold books?

I swear I just saw such a project over in the modeling forum, I'll see if I can find the post.
Found it:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/287432.page

This message was edited 4 times. Last update was at 2010/04/20 23:31:17


 
   
Made in us
[ARTICLE MOD]
Fixture of Dakka






Chicago

The 'tournament standard' size is 6' x 4'. That's also the size of the GW battleboard, and the size you'll see used in most battle reports in White Dwarf.

   
Made in jp
[MOD]
Anti-piracy Officer






Somewhere in south-central England.

A larger table is nice for playing big games or different (not 40K) games.

You need to take care with the dimensions you use as the dynamics of the game are affected. For example, a bigger table clearly creates an advantage for a shooty army.

I don't advise putting spare figures, drinks and so on around the edge. IMO it spoils the look of the game. From a practicaly viewpoint, you are more likely t knock things over when leaning across them to get to the middle of a large table.

If there is room, consider the use of a small staging table close to the game table.

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Made in us
Loyal Necron Lychguard






Palm Beach, FL

If you're building a table yourself, I'd recommend building an 8'x4'. That'll give you an extra 2 feet on the side for everything that needs table space but isn't part of the game, and if you ever want to play an Apocalypse game you've already got the right sized table.
   
Made in gb
Lord of the Fleet






4 feet deep (i.e. 4 foot between you and your opponent) is the standard.

Widths vary depending on size of game. 4x4 is just big enough for 1500 and is ideal for smaller than that. 1500-2500 needs a 4x6. 2500 and up is best on a 4x8.
   
Made in gb
Hanging Out with Russ until Wolftime







MasterSlowPoke wrote:If you're building a table yourself, I'd recommend building an 8'x4'. That'll give you an extra 2 feet on the side for everything that needs table space but isn't part of the game, and if you ever want to play an Apocalypse game you've already got the right sized table.
I rather like this idea. Make it as long as you want, but keep it 4' wide and you can mark out a 6x4 section on the side and keep the rest for books and such!

Though I like Killkrazy's idea about a separate table a bit more though, if space is an issue MSP's idea would be the best.

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Made in pl
Kelne





Warsaw, Poland

Thanks everyone.

I guess I'll try to bulid a an 8x4 one, though it depends on the logistics as it would be build at a different town and then would have to be transported.

And thanks a bunch for these photos, too, they are a nice inspiration
   
Made in us
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Rhode Island

Alkasyn wrote:Thanks everyone.

I guess I'll try to bulid a an 8x4 one, though it depends on the logistics as it would be build at a different town and then would have to be transported.

And thanks a bunch for these photos, too, they are a nice inspiration


silly statement here i suppose, but if you are worried about transporting such a large table... why not have it made into two halves? 2 smaller tables, as long as whoever is making them has some skill, they should easily be able to make the same height table, and maybe include a little latch so they can be place together and connected so they dont wiggle away while leaning over them? Thus instead of moving 1 big 8x4 they are only building 2 4x4's

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Made in gb
Lord of the Fleet






Or even in 2x4 strips? As long as the supporting framework is well designed this is quite acheivable (I used to do this with my portable tables - I had two battons underneath with pegs that locked into sockets on the bottom of the boards.)
   
Made in us
Painlord Titan Princeps of Slaanesh





Syracuse, NY

Also, don't let the nay sayers get you down I would love to have a 'sunk in' area for me to put my beer on a table and an easy place to line up both dead troops and troops in reserve.

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Tilter at Windmills






Manchester, NH

As noted, 4’ x 6’ is the official size, though 4x8 is nice to have both for larger games and to have a 2’ sideboard space during regular ones. I would only use 4x4 for games under 1000pts; particularly 400-500pt Combat Patrol-type games. In 3rd & 4th edition I liked 4x8 tables a lot for regular-size (1000-2500pt) games as well, as they open up the table with more maneuver space, but in 5th that can really screw over Outflanking units, so it’s better to stick to the standard size.

Having a top surface which hinges, or even one built in 2’ x 4’ sections, can be great solutions for easy teardown & storage.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/04/21 15:32:12


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Made in pl
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Warsaw

Put some pics, when the table is done. I'd like to see the outcome

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Fixture of Dakka






Lancaster PA

My table is made from 2 2.5'x6' (I think) folding tables, the kind you get at Lowes or Wal-Mart for picnics, with a 6x4 peice of plywood on top, and more recently the ROB board on that. Leaves a nice 6" by 6' lip on each players side for models, drinks etc, and in theory if I wanted to reclaim the space I could fold up the tables and put them in a closet. I would really like to get some more folding tables though to make a 6x8 or 6x10 board though for Apoc games, or even just more terrain heavy, movement focused large games. I just haven't gotten around to it yet though since making a board to mesh with the RoB peices is kind of irksome and seems like more work than I want to put into it right now. I hate making terrain... Anyway, if you are making your own table, be certain to plan for materials before you buy, since you might find that when those foldy tables go on sale they wind up being a lot cheaper than the wood for a hand made table, lumber prices being what they are lately.


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Made in jp
[MOD]
Anti-piracy Officer






Somewhere in south-central England.

4x4 is useful for smaller games and historical games like DBA which use small armies but want room in which to manoeuvre them.

The other thing to look into is the standard sizes of terrain mats available. They usually match standard table sizes but some companies will do custom mats.

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We're not very big on official rules. Rules lead to people looking for loopholes. What's here is about it. 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut







A 4x6 play area and a foot or two on side for deployment is what I'd consider the minimum useful size. If it's just a 4x6 table, then you end up needing additional furniture in addition to the table to hold armies, books, etc.
   
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If you are building a permanent table in your house/apartment, you might want to consider 4.5 or 5 feet of width to give greater flexibility. I would have done it that size if I could have.

I made a portable 4x6 table in two 3x4 halves. I roughly followed the design in this thread: http://www.librarium-online.com/forums/scenery/157531-russ-workbench-portable-gaming-table.html

with some modifications.

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