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I don't see much point to a dice tower. I play enough different genres and scales that a given style dice tower is probably only going to fit with some of my gaming.

Also, I'm skeptical that a dice tower would easily handle the number of dice in a game like KoW. I'll stick with a dice cup for most games and a box top for fists full of dice.

1. I have two sets of dice, both are 12mm. Most are GW (red/white) and some are Chessex (Green/Gold). I like to alternate when one set is being particularly mean to me. I own plenty of 16 mm dice but I only use those for wounds markers.

2. What do people have against GW dice? I've heard many times that they roll worse. I also own a set of the GW Munitorium dice and hate them passionately for always treating me bad. But, my other GW ones work fine... what's the problem people have with GW dice?

 Enigwolf wrote:
What are you guys using for Scatter Die, for the 16mms?

The old white (or black/silver with bullethole set) 16mm ones. Just like the artillery/misfire die.

Yes, GW used to have 16mm scatter/misfire dice in their 12mm dice packs.

 chromedog wrote:

 Enigwolf wrote:
What are you guys using for Scatter Die, for the 16mms?

The old white (or black/silver with bullethole set) 16mm ones. Just like the artillery/misfire die.

Yes, GW used to have 16mm scatter/misfire dice in their 12mm dice packs.

You know what, I had completely forgotten about that till now!

For most of my armies(SM and Necron) I have a 12mm Chessex set I roll. My AM use a GW dice cube. I also carry 5 casino dice to any game I play. If I only need to roll a few dice I use the casinos, everything else I use whatever 12mm set I brought.

Typically with the fact that I end up throwing so many dice for wargaming, I prefer to throw smaller dice, than standard. So the chessex, or the GW cubes is fine.

Easy to read is a must though.

I like clear or translucent sets, but I have two poly sets that I never use for RPG games because the numbers are impossible to read.

I admit though, if I had money to burn...I would only throw Artisan Dice.

We've had rounded corner dice land corner down (which we refer to as "rolling a 15 the hard way" with the 6.5.4 uppermost) on our flocked table (paper backed grass mat glued down to the board).

Casino dice don't tend to roll properly on our tables (painted boards) and it's too easy to control the 'roll' as a result (slide them, rather than have them tumble).
If people use them at the club, they generally also have dice trays that are felt lined to roll them in.
[There is a reason that casinos make you bounce them OFF a wall and past a line in order for the rolls to count - even when they have felt lined tables.]

They also use square edged dice, combined with the felt edged table and wall to ensure a 1/6th chance of rolling any given number.

Even with bouncing, there's still a higher chance of rolling a 1 with the rounded edge dice due to their nature.

But, non-rounded dice are impractical and expensive for wargames, and still require an edge to bounce off to ensure the equality, or it's potentially worse than the rounded dice.

 namiel wrote:
I prefer smaller easy to read dice. Dark with white spots and not to huge that chucking dice all over the place.

Saldiven wrote:
You know, I think that what's more important than the size of the dice is that the contrast between the pips and the color of the dice is very strong.

Recently I decided the problem isn't so much the size of the dice, or the colour, but the pips themselves. If I roll a handful of dice I have to stare stupidly at them for a while, mostly just seeing a puddle of dots, no matter how bold they are. It's like throwing a handful of rice on a black cloth, or... some little black round things... on white... and trying to divine the future from it.
So I'm stocking up on polydice D6s from EM4 miniatures. Ones with numbers on 'em rather than pips. Much easier to pick out the results. For me, anyway.

I have a bunch of wee 5mm dice too, but only for counting wounds or damage. Pipped, but since there's usually just one, or two sitting neatly together, they're easier to read.

16mm Chessex, bought in a brick, and kept in the box for when needed - three sets, different colors.

The Auld Grump

I use 5mm dice for marking wounds on models, and between 7 and 16mm for actual rolling.

I use bigass Backgammon dice. Not sure on the size, maybe about an inch in diameter? In any case, they make the largest Chessex dice look runty by comparison. Backgammon players take balanced dice pretty seriously (no concave pips for starters), so my inclination is to trust their preferred products a lot more than the dice Chessex churns out.

Since they're so large, rolling more than 12 at a time isn't really an option. That is fine for me, since I usually break my rolls involving many dice into sets of 10 anyway. It sounds like that would slow things down, but I've found I save time not having to pick out failures from a huge pile of dice (not to mention from under terrain, between models' legs, or wherever else those tiny Chessex dice feel like rolling off to).

Chessex dice I use for marking wounds. For my money, that's all they're good for.

Kind of depends on how many dice you roll at once. Our local Ork player likes to use regular sized 16mm... which would normally be fine, but he's often rolling 50+ dice at once. It's kind of hard to throw that many 16mm dice without them crashing into models or falling off the side of the table.

12mm chessex and GW dice are by far the most common in my area. A few people use 16mm chessex and bycicle dice. One guy uses 5mm dice - I think they're overly small, but I don't really mind them (I can read their pips better than some of the screwy "fancy" dice that I sometimes see at D&D games). I could see the 5mm dice being a kind of nice solution for players who need to role dozens of dice at once.

One of the regular players showed up with a few giant dice made of solid brass. We messed around rollin them a few times but our models kept falling over when the dice hit the table, and you had to get you feet out of the way if they went off the table....

so them became turn markers.

I use the 12mm apoc dice for almost all of my IG's rolls. I have a gw chaos cube set with red, blue, white and green that I use for special weapons plas or flamers. They are easily distinguishable from the black and red apoc dice so I can roll all of them together when my blobs fire and speed up my shooting phase.

I use a 36mm die for a turn counter, though.

From Chessex. It's a custom one another forum had done to commemorate a yearly meetup at Warhammer world.

The wife lets me borrow it (it's blue - her favourite colour - when she saw me open the mail satchel with it, she immediatelt claimed it).

I like my 12mm dice. They are the right size that more then 10 isn't a burden to roll. Also being able to easily find them in cubes of 36 is a nice boon. Unfortunately my favorite set is a bit harder to read then I would like. Not difficult by any means but don't stand out super well. I do own about 100 of the little 5mm dice. found them on ebay for like 10 bucks and picked them up. They pretty much only have served as wounds since I got over the novelty of rolling them and squinting

For more than ten dice, 12mm are fine. I use 16mm for LD or special weapons/assaults, as more than ten 16mm tend to cause shakes/knocking of models (I'm a big guy and can roll hard accidentally). Anything bigger or smaller than that is not useful. Also, I have a black/pink mix with white pips that is pretty sweet and easy, as well as some 16mm with grey base and gold pips that is super easy to read.

Side note, it drives me completely mad when custom dice use the symbol for 1. If you use a symbol, I think it should always be for the 6. It makes more sense for me. Why would your icon be a losing 1?

I use my lovely Green Vortex Chessex dice as they compliment my Necron army extremely well.

No-goes are those pesky dice with symbols instead of numbers. I don't accept those as they really slow playing down.