Switch Theme:

Painting Bloodletters  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Waaagh! Warbiker






Bay Area California

Alright. So I have looked around at many "How to Paint Bloodletters" tutorials but have not come across anything that I believe would be in my skill range. Does anyone know of a more simple way to paint the using layering/drybrushing/washes?

Thanks

2,100 pts Renegade Imperial Guard
"Welcome to my strange alternative world of wargaming with toy soldiers: a game for boys of twelve years of age to one hundred and fifty and for that sort of more intelligent sort of girl who likes boys' games and books."-H.G Wells, "Little Wars"
DC:90+S+GMB++I+Pw40k08/re+D+A++/mWDR+

Boss Kragskarr's Speed Freeks-A Gathering Waaaagh!
 
   
Made in gb
Bounding Black Templar Assault Marine





North Wales

http://www.thearmypainter.com/gallery_presentation.php?GalleryId=63&Gallery=Dragon%20Red:%20Chaos%20Warrior

Could always use the Army Painter method?...Seems pretty straight forward to me!

"...where Astarters of lesser chapters wear the Emperor's Aquila. We do not wear His symbol. We are His symbol."

Ostrakon wrote:If Hitler, Osama bin Laden, and you were in a room together, and I only had 2 bullets, I would shoot you twice.
 
   
Made in gb
Towering Hierophant Bio-Titan





Fareham

If your looking for a simple yet effective way to paint them:

Base coat chaos black.
Drybrush the skin with foundation red.
Drybrush red gore.
Drybrush blood red.
Purple wash (really helps to make it stand out)
Can stop there, or can add another blood red drybrush.

Thats just the base of the model really.
The rest isnt hard to speed paint since the main areas are done.
Due to it being just washes and drybrushing, it takes no time atall, and its stupidly simple to do.

   
Made in us
Waaagh! Warbiker






Bay Area California

Ok thanks

2,100 pts Renegade Imperial Guard
"Welcome to my strange alternative world of wargaming with toy soldiers: a game for boys of twelve years of age to one hundred and fifty and for that sort of more intelligent sort of girl who likes boys' games and books."-H.G Wells, "Little Wars"
DC:90+S+GMB++I+Pw40k08/re+D+A++/mWDR+

Boss Kragskarr's Speed Freeks-A Gathering Waaaagh!
 
   
Made in us
Tail-spinning Tomb Blade Pilot





I am by no means a skilled painter but i found an interesting way to paint my daemons that still makes them look nice.

I basecoated my bloodletters white. Then I did red washes. I make my own washes so i just made a heavy red wash and covered the whole model in it and then went back and painted details. Baal red would probably be a good place to start.

Necrons 2000+
Space Wolves 2,000+  
   
Made in us
Waaagh! Warbiker






Bay Area California

I painted my test demon like this: mechrite red/red gore drybrush/blood red drybrush/blazing orange on the bumps. Horns were dheneb stone washed with gryphonne sepia. Then I applied a full model devlan mud wash excepting the horns. The deepest recesses were badab black wash and the claws were skull white with a highlight of dheneb stone washed with badab black.

2,100 pts Renegade Imperial Guard
"Welcome to my strange alternative world of wargaming with toy soldiers: a game for boys of twelve years of age to one hundred and fifty and for that sort of more intelligent sort of girl who likes boys' games and books."-H.G Wells, "Little Wars"
DC:90+S+GMB++I+Pw40k08/re+D+A++/mWDR+

Boss Kragskarr's Speed Freeks-A Gathering Waaaagh!
 
   
Made in fi
Utilizing Careful Highlighting





Finland... the country next to Sweden? No! That's Norway! Finland is to the east! No! That's Russia!

Well I did mine like this:
Chaos black undercoat
Schorched brown
dark flesh
vermin brown
red gore
blood red

Then you can make the tongue a good contrasting colour.

and i painted the hellblades BLUE!

Sweet Jesus, Nurgle and Slaanesh in the same box!?
No, just Nurgle and Slaanesh, Jesus will be sold seperately in a blister.




 
   
Made in nl
Hellacious Havoc




The Netherlands

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/index.php?autocom=ineo&showarticle=319

This might be helpfull

 
   
Made in au
[DCM]
.. .-.. .-.. ..- -- .. -. .- - ..






Toowoomba, Australia

all washes over mithril silver.
Badab black whole model.
Baal red.
Rehighlight mithril silver.
Baal red x2
Mithril silver over other areas- thraka green and highlight and 2 thraka green to spiky things.
Badab black mithril silver and x2 badab black to hilt and claws.
x2 Gryphonne sepia to sword, edge mithril and x1 gryphonne sepia.
I also did several layers of black over the horns to break them up a bit from the rest of the model...


Took about 1 hour, including drying time on a hot day (34 degrees celcius) by drying it between layers out in the sun.







2025: Games Played:2/Models Bought:114/Sold:163/Painted:88
2024: Games Played:6/Models Bought:393/Sold:519/Painted: 207
2023: Games Played:0/Models Bought:287/Sold:0/Painted: 203
2020-2022: Games Played:42/Models Bought:1271/Sold:631/Painted:442
2016-19: Games Played:369/Models Bought:772/Sold:378/ Painted:268
2012-15: Games Played:412/Models Bought: 1163/Sold:730/Painted:436 
   
Made in gb
Dakka Veteran





Darkest Kent (England)

I just primed black, a patchy red gore coat and then I drybrushed different squads orange, red and purple (but not too noticeable and they look kind of inconsistent and warp-y.

Okay, I've been on a bit of a hiatus 2011-14

Currently working on my Riot Guard.

DA:90-S+++G+M++++B+++I+Pw40k99+D++A+++/cWD142R++T(M)DM+ 
   
Made in us
[ARTICLE MOD]
Huge Hierodule






North Bay, CA

My method

http://www.kan.org/michael/mkp/bloodletters.php

   
Made in gb
Elite Tyranid Warrior








This is very similar to what I would do I think.

have not come across anything that I believe would be in my skill range.


I've read a lot of painting tutorials too and most are completely unhelpful, especially GW ones. They usually follow the format of...

Step 1: Undercoat
Step 2: Add basic colours
Step 3: Make it look awesome (WTF how?)
Step 4: Finished

I spent a lot of years stuck between steps 2 and 3 :/

If 'skill' is something you feel is holding you back, then I'm guessing you might be in the same place, so perhaps some general advice and techniques would be helpful, along with a system to paint Blood Letters.

Firstly make sure you have pallet or a plate or anything that you can mix your paints on. Don't paint out the pot, because the pot paint is nearly always too thick, and will fill all the nice little details and gaps up too quickly and look rubbish... So get some water on your brush and mix it round on the plate till it's the right consistency.

I would suggest base coating Blood Letters in white as this will give you better brighter colours. Black will leave you fighting against the dullness, and I don't see that the Blood Letter models have the kind of details that warrant a black undercoat as they are quite smooth skinned (as opposed to something like wolves which have a rough and furry surface). Or you could go straight to red if you don't mind them being a bit darker. In any case you want them to end up red... Blood Red is fine.

Next thing is to wash with a darker colour. I would suggest something like scab red with a little bit of black mixed in, but blue or purple or brown would work also.

You don't need any special washes or anything like that. Just mix the darker paint on your plate with a little water and apply it with a wet brush (i find a small brush gives better result). If the paint stick to the raised areas then dab on a little more water with your brush until it runs off and collects in all the nooks and crannies, hopefully resembling shadows. then leave it to dry.

When it's completely dry you can dry brush over it again with Blood Red to make it nice and red again.

Then it's just a case of highlighting and adding details... Which is easy to say, but maybe not easy to do. So here are some tips...

For fine detail remember that water is your friend... Tiny things like eyes and nostrils are easy to paint if you get your paint watery and let it run in, rather than trying to force it in with the brush and accidental going over the edges... you can't really go over the edges with watery paint because it just runs back in the gaps (and you can wipe it off easy).

For other fine details I would suggest you get hold of some acrylic paint retardant which you mix with your paint to stop it drying too fast. I cannot emphasise enough how much you need this stuff.

What tends to happen with fine details is you get your finest bush, get a tiny bit of paint on it and go to paint your mini... but somewhere between dipping the brush and painting the mini... the paint starts to dry on the brush. Then when you try to paint the paint won't flow off the brush properly. The only solution is to press harder and drag the brush... which of course doesn't work as it ends up looking like to paint has been scraped on with a trowel... alternatively you can try to load more paint on your brush so it stays wet longer, but this also fails for obvious reasons.

Retardant really helps with this, it keeps the paint wet and flowing so you can make nice tiny lines like all the pros.

For highlighting, you could dry brush the highlights on, I know you want to, cause it's easy... but I don't like dry brushing myself, as I think it leaves models looking dusty and while it does pick out details nicely, it will also pick out brush strokes, paint texture, and any lines from the mould that you missed with your file, which is bad.

So I recommend doing highlights by hand... again retardant will work miracles for you here. It allows you time to blend highlights into the base colour... which is usually impossible unless you live in a really humid area. For Blood Letters I would suggest Blazing Orange for highlights and maybe work it up yellows or off whites for the very brightest bit of the highlight (brown + white).

Obviously the other details are up to you... but you will find all things much easier if you keep in mind some of the tips here.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/07/27 08:00:36


Smarteye wrote:Down the road, not across the street.
A painless alternative would be to add ammonia to bleach in a confined space listening to sad songs and reading a C.S. Goto novel.
 
   
Made in cz
Yellin' Yoof





Hey, the way the colorful "bloodletters" it is simple and I am able to paint this ten figures for three hours of painting.
[Thumb - P5160077.JPG]
tirst I paint body and other parts with colour primer pure red from army painter

[Thumb - P5160091.JPG]

[Thumb - P5160092.JPG]

[Thumb - P5160089.JPG]
than I paint the other parts and complete model

[Thumb - P5160090.JPG]
I use only chaos black, skull whitesunburst yellow, boltgun metal, rgaaveyard earth and ice blue

[Thumb - bloodletters 5.JPG]
than I have this finished I use army painter quck shade strong tone and antishine spray

[Thumb - bloodletters 3.JPG]

[Thumb - bloodletters 6.JPG]

[Thumb - bloodletters 7.JPG]

[Thumb - bloodletters 8.JPG]

[Thumb - bloodletters 9.JPG]

   
Made in au
Crazed Cultist of Khorne



Newcastle

In the name of being a lazy sod, for my bloodletters I:
primed with Chaos Black,
then airbrushed with Mechrite Red,
Drybrush with blood red (sometimes),
light drybrush with blazing orange,
Slap on some red ink
pick out details in black and bronze.
they come up alright, and I'm very happy with the time frame - if I get 'into the zone" I can get 10 done in an hour or so.
I have to say that Neuminic's look damn good though.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/07/27 10:53:18



All the tactics in the world can't save you from to hit to wound to save
for leadership 
   
Made in us
Waaagh! Warbiker






Bay Area California

Wow thanks for all the suggestions! I have a ton of material to work with now! Now just to choose one...


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Waaagh_Gonads- Sweet style I may just have to try that. The only problem is that I am quite poor at highlights that aren't drybrushed

SmackCakes- Thanks for the in depth coverage of how to paint these suckers. I totally agree with ou on the gw painting method step 3!

Ifurita- Thanks for the cool method. I will look into that.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/07/28 05:28:02


2,100 pts Renegade Imperial Guard
"Welcome to my strange alternative world of wargaming with toy soldiers: a game for boys of twelve years of age to one hundred and fifty and for that sort of more intelligent sort of girl who likes boys' games and books."-H.G Wells, "Little Wars"
DC:90+S+GMB++I+Pw40k08/re+D+A++/mWDR+

Boss Kragskarr's Speed Freeks-A Gathering Waaaagh!
 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: