Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Well this is my first attempt, some people will like some people will dis, but i'm happy with it and i think i'm heading in the right direction

Nice! How did you do the rust on the choppa?

NoBaconz4You wrote:Nice! How did you do the rust on the choppa?

I used M I G pigments, Standard Rust P025 and Light Rust P024, i think i need to use the standard rust a bit more heavier and not so much with the light rust, this , i hope will give an even older looking rust effect, we shall see!

How did you get it to stay on your models? I varnished my careful dusting and it blew of or turned into paste!

You either need to apply it with more force to rub it in or mix it with white spirits. If you want piles you can mix it with varnish directly and it will stay in place, but it will make it a bit more difficult to work with.

Good luck!

You are most definitely heading in the right direction!

lunarman wrote:How did you get it to stay on your models? I varnished my careful dusting and it blew of or turned into paste!

I used Turpentine, just dab it on, not brush it on, But take my word for it this stuff stinks and Harmful by inhalation in contact with skin and if swallowed.

VicStaUk wrote:

lunarman wrote:How did you get it to stay on your models? I varnished my careful dusting and it blew of or turned into paste!

I used Turpentine, just dab it on, not brush it on, But take my word for it this stuff stinks and Harmful by inhalation in contact with skin and if swallowed.

And it tastes like crap!
I usually re-form my brushes after rinsing by putting them in my mouth. A word of advice: Don't.

I mean it. Don't. Just don't do it. For real. Just don't.

Well use a cheap or a really old brush to put pigments and the turps on, DO NOT!!! reform an old brush or a cheap 1, just for this 1 reason only-----Turps taste bad and are harfull if swallowed.

I use a synthetic, rather soft brush to apply my pigments. It works really well. I can either fill it with turp and let it 'flow' from the brush or I can gently apply it with the soft straws.

I use GW wash brush as it gives me better control

I use pure gum turpentine and it smells way better than mineral turp.

Still love the smell of turp regardless the type. Gives me nostalgia.

If you're applying your pigments dry, gently dabbing a brush loaded with rubbing alcohol will set the pigments nicely, as well. Just a light touch here and there is sufficient, as the pigments will draw the liquid around through capillary action. The big bonuses of the alcohol are that it doesn't stink much (unless you shove your nose right over the bottle), is dirt cheap, and it dries quickly. Just be wary not to brush vigorously if using it to make a wash - you'll end up scrubbing off the underlying paint (guess how I know... ).

Alcohol alone is resilient enough for light handling of display models, but anything that'll be played with should really be varnished. That goes for pretty much any other fixative, though, so 70% Isopropyl from your local drug store wins, in my book.

I use Turps - it was laying around the house, and I rate it for applying pigments and weathering powders. I use an old brush that wasnt too far gone, but had lost its fine point.

I second the "dont put the brush in your mouth' motion, and add a "make sure you drink out of a can or bottle" - or run the risk of washing your paint brush into your glass of coke zero...

I found that when using pigments, you need to over do it a bit, as any spray varnish will knock the effect back a bit. Ive attached a link to the page in my Plog showing the (slight) difference on some weathered terrain. A spray coat is necessary for any models that will see play, but it does affect the finish.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/60/244402.page#2587405

Of course in my view - looking at that axe, you already have a great method of creating corrosion! Pity it isnt on the Dakka gallery, otherwise I would have voted

The base looks good. Ok, I want to use pigments (on my tanks, for weathering and dusty tread look) but I'm still unclear how to do it and get the effect I want.

So, I use a rather splayed brush and stipple the dry pigment on, right? Then do I 'paint' over that with Turp or Isopropyl? Would it be better to spray Isopropyl alc. on with a spray bottle? (like you water plants with?)

If I 'paint' the turp or alcohol on, won't that 'muddy up' the effect? I want it to look dusty/dried mud without using an airbrush kinda effect. I see it in military modeling magazines all the time.

G'day mate - is this the kind of effect you are looking for:


http://www.secretweaponminiatures.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=2

The secret weapon link I provided above shows how to do this (using all their products of course!).

You can use weathering powders in a range of different ways, but I'll boil down how I use them (and Im still learning) to two:

1) Dry. Apply the powder using some applicator - either an old paint brush (good control), a splayed - makeup type brush (for large areas, and subtle effects), your fingers, those cotton bud things, dry sponges... anything that will load up the powder and allow you to smear it on the model.

2) 'Wet'. Put a small amount of the pigment in a small, shallow dish. Then put a small amount of the mineral turps, or white spirit on top. You will notice that the powder does not dissolve - it remains a powdery mass at the bottom of the turps. Get your old paint brush and try to get a small amount of pigment suspended in the turps, then quickly 'paint it onto the area'. Once the turps dries, it completely evaporates, leaving you with a dry powder again - meaning you can get the same weathering effect as Dry application, but with the advantage of it being easier to get into the cracks and crevices.

Two of my examples:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/163748-Darkkt%2C%20Terrain%2C%20Weathered%20ruined%20city%20-%20unsealed.html
http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/199984-Cities%20Of%20Death%2C%20Weathered.html

These use a combination of wet and dry. For the large areas I use dry. For the fine effects (see the green rivits and vents on the first link and the rusty riviting on the second link) I use wets.

Hunt around further in the gallery & on this site for better examples - I am only just starting with these weathering pigments.\

Anyway, best of luck!