Ok, I'll try and explain a few things :
- First you need a primer / undercoat. Generally white or black, but some pointed out grey, so it might prove to be good.
Best time-saving & consistency item is with a spraycan. I've only had experiences with
GW primer before, so I can tell they're expensive, yet reliable.
The aim is not to drown the details with paint, but to put a very thin coat of paint, on which the other paints will "cling" better.
If you're a beginner, settle with one colour (white/grey/black), and learn to paint over that colour. As others mentioned, you'll end up having brighter models with white undercoat, and darker ones with a black undercoat. When I begun painting, I kept to black for it was more "forgiving" : if you forget to paint a part, in recesses for example, it will just look like a dark place on the model. I then moved to white when I grew more comfortable with my painting.
Again, as other pointed out, grey might be the perfect alternative for beginners, as you should struggle less for bright colours, while being more forgiving for the reasons I mentioned above.
- Once the undercoat is done, first step is to put the first layers of paint on the model : what we call the basecoat. The aim is to give a structure to the model with rough colours. For your first pieces, I'd advise to keep to a few colours, no more than 3-4 : one main colour, that you will apply on the largest parts and will define the model ; one contrasting colour, for the other smaller parts, but that are still important to the model (shields, helms, weapons, etc...); and one or two for the small details (pouches, lenses, cables, ammunition, leather boots, etc...).
This is where you might consider using Foundation paints, for they provide good covering power over the undercoat. But other paints are perfectly eligible too, don't worry.
Important trick : you should never use paints right from the pot. Always thin them down with water so that they're more fluid. Most books I've seen talk about "milk" consistency, I would say not that fluid... But almost. The covering power will be weaker, but the coat will be easier to work with. And to wipe out if you screw something.
Important trick #2 : In that phase, be sure that part of the model has been covered. That may seem obvious, but at first you should not worry if you seem to always forget some small part : it happens !
- Then, you can start work on the "real" colouring of the model. Over the basecoat, you'll apply more paint, usually of a brighter tone than the basecoat, with the basecoat still visible in the recesses. At first it's easier if you stick to available colours (Regal Blue / Enchanted Blue / Ice Blue for instance, for Basecoat / main coat / highlights). But you may use white for brightening the colour, but yellow, bleached bone, or a lighter version of the colours can work too !
- Also of great help are the "washes". Depending on the type of result you want to achieve, you can either try and pool them in the recesses to create shadows on the models, or apply them generously all over the basecoated model : it will pool in the recesses anyway, and can easily give a nice effect on a basecoated model.
You should only need a bright place to work in, a few paint pots, one or two brushes (one for the basecoat & rest, one for the details - also don't use crappy brushes : you can find some great ones for not that expensive a price in arts stores), a glass with water, a towel, and something to use as a palette : some use an old kitchen plate, some use tiles ; I personally use sheets of paper, that's good enough
And remember : thin your paints with water, clean & take care of your brushes, and work in a lighted room. That should do the trick !
[edit : Damn,
'ed by Hits_The_Awesome_Hobbyist]
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