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So I'm fairly unhappy that I've just ruined one of my first completed Warhammer 40k models with Krylon UV Resistant clear coat.
http://www.krylon.com/products/uvresistant_clear
And I've come here to ask for help and recommendations for a different product.

After applying the spray, the model is covered in a white paint that is hardly clear at all.
The can was adequately shaken and the model was not too close to the spray can - I've used spray paint for other things well enough.
It was a little cold outside when the model was sprayed, maybe around 55-60 degrees. Just a little chilly, I wouldn't think it would cause this to happen.

* Is there any way I can remove this or otherwise recover the model?
* Is there any other product I should have used? I've heard good things about the Testors paints.

Pictures will follow in my next post.

well, I've messed up models before... and in every case, I just have to write the model off as a loss.

I've been using Testors Dullcoat for my vehicles now, works great.

For infantry (in power armor anyway) I like to have a high-gloss finish to em, so I use GW 'ardcoat.

No problem, just re spray it so the solvent or dilutent or w/e its called will redo it when its wet.

Happens to me all the time if i varnish in the rain or cold.

Images of my warhammer models after applying clearcoat.

Is there any way this can be salvaged?
I really don't want to lose these.
Thanks for your help.

I've seen several solutions work for this kind of problem from various threads. The simplest would be to try spraying on some gloss coat onto a part of the model and seeing if that works (worked well for majortom11 in his thread). Another solution that worked for a friend of mine with GW clear coat was spraying on some glue accelerator (zipkick for instance) but NOT actual glue. Either way, I'd test out these solutions on a small part of the model (cover up all but maybe a limb with paper and then spray) since I don't recall any threads specifically mentioning Krylon clear coat (usually either testors or GW brands).

The_Juggler wrote:Images of my warhammer models after applying clearcoat.

Yep, same thing happens to almost everyone that clearcoats, so no worries.

But really its not that bad is it? instant weathering >.>

Too much moisture in the air. Try the respraying option. I would also switch to testors clear coat for future models. It is lacquer based and much more forgiving with environment factors. Use the original clear coat if you try respraying.

wynnstudio

Spraying on another coat of gloss can usually fix frosting, just try to spray in better conditions the second time around (with the can at a proper temperature, having been shaken twice as much as you think it could possibly need, just to be sure). If the same problems arise again and again, you'll end up with varnish so thick you have no choice but to strip the thing.

I'm understandably wary of spraying the same thing on the model again - it's already done this much damage
But I'll give it a try this evening.
And you're saying that it's *not* possible or recommended to somehow remove the clearcoat?



As for the rest of the models, I'm almost done with several of them and I'm ready for a clear coat.
At the craft store where I got this, they had:
Testors dull cote spray enamel
http://www.thewarstore.com/product33266.html
and Testors wet look spray enamel
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSTW5

After telling the sales clerk what I was doing, they recommended this paint that I used.
So - yeah right.

Are either of these products good for this sort of thing?
Or should I keep shopping around?

Honestly Just airbrush on clear coat, there is no areosol.

I think there is no product on the market which would remove the clearcoat and not damage the paintjob underneath. Either you'd have to strip the whole model or try to save what you can. I've saved a frosted model by glossing it and then varnish it again with a matte coat. The trick is to lay down the gloss coat thick and only using very thin coats of the matte varnish.

Have you considered switching varnishes? Since I got an airbrush I use Vallejos Polyurethane Acrylic Varnishes exclusively, and they never let me down so far.

Cheers,


IK-Painter

I've never had any problems with the Krylon Varnishes, I use them on all of my models. Two things to note from your pictures. First it was way to humid out, spray varnish is very suseptible to humidity. I would recommend trying for the lowest humidity days, and not during evening or early morning. Second, just like with everything else in painting more thin coats are better then one heavy coat.

As everyone has mentioned reglossing can sometimes fix frosting, although its entirely dependant on how thick the inital coat was. Failing that its time to strip and start over.

There are a few things you can try to avoid frosting. The first is to control your atmosphere, this can include waiting for a warm low humidty day I would recommend thinking about varnishing indoors however. I do all of my spraying in my dehumidifyed basement and anything I spray always comes out perfect. The second thing you can do is to change your varnishing medium, brush on or airbrush on varnishes are much less likely to frost then a spray.

I use cheap hair spray.

Read my article about how to fix it, linked in my sig... good luck!

For future reference. Never spray outside if the humidity is higher than 70% and/or the temperature is below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. This goes for all sprays, not just clear coats. And for your current issue. Respraying usually works if the first coat wasn't to thick. Good luck.

You sprayed Way too thick especially on the first one, which contributed to the frosting. The first one posted is a loss strip it in simple green or windex. You may he able to recover others depending on how thick it is. If you see cracks in the frosting or clearcoat strip em. Testors dullcote is one of the best varnishes, I also use lusterless clear which is the model masters version. If you must use an aerosol that's the way to go. Airbrushing is still the best way and there's a myriad of varnishes out there. I use Liquitex matte varnish and a touch of ultra matte medium and I'm experimenting with Tamiya flat base in Future.

or you could say that they have been fighting on a Ice covered planet and a recant Blizzard has attached ice to the armor.

Nightfall wrote:or you could say that they have been fighting on a Ice covered planet and a recant Blizzard has attached ice to the armor.

hahaha yeah I thought of the same thing
"The fearless warriors of the 2nd company are deployed to an icy hell to battle the tyranid infestation"

MajorTom11 wrote:Read my article about how to fix it, linked in my sig... good luck!

That's a great article, I'll have to look at the other ones sometime too.
I'm going to do this before I consider stripping the model.

Catyrpelius wrote:Two things to note from your pictures. First it was way to humid out, spray varnish is very suseptible to humidity. I would recommend trying for the lowest humidity days, and not during evening or early morning. Second, just like with everything else in painting more thin coats are better then one heavy coat.

Well I suppose it was fairly humid out, although I'm afraid the hot dry days are behind us this time of year. I hate to do this inside, sprayed black paint inside and got a fine mist of black all over things.
The clear won't be as bad, but I'll definately be getting it on things.
Still, if it's the best result then that's what I need to do.

IK-Painter wrote:Have you considered switching varnishes?

Yes, I think I'm going to pick up Testors brand gloss and matte clearcoat paints after work today.
Is this good? am I going to have the same troubles with this?
And I should think these paints will have a non-yellowing agent, I don't want to end up with amber-colored models after some time on the shelf.
These are good products right?
http://www.thewarstore.com/product33266.html
http://www.thewarstore.com/product33267.html




And thanks very much to everybody for your help, this is a great forum and I'm glad I went here for help.

The_Juggler wrote:Images of my warhammer models after applying clearcoat.

Is there any way this can be salvaged?
I really don't want to lose these.
Thanks for your help.

Holy cow! They look cool as hell! SNOW!

I used Testors brush cleaner (used to clean off brushes when using enamel paints). I brushed on the cleaner and most of the frosting went away. It cost around 2 dollars for a bottle and learned not to spray outdoors on humid days.

Sarigar wrote:I used Testors brush cleaner (used to clean off brushes when using enamel paints). I brushed on the cleaner and most of the frosting went away. It cost around 2 dollars for a bottle and learned not to spray outdoors on humid days.

Can I get a second opinion on this? This sounds like a really good idea, I'm willing to give it a try if there are no warnings or precautions.

I've never used anything but Testors dullcote. It has frosted on me once when I sprayed it on a particularly humid day (derp, florida). A quick respray and a little shake took the frosting out without making the dullcote too thick. A friend very badly frosted some things with Krylon, so we brushed on some Liquitex gloss medium before dullcoting and it came out passable, but not perfect.

No matter what you use, you will have frosting if you work in bad conditions. Heat isn't usually an issue, but I don't live in Texas anymore so I am not sure about extreme heat. Cold and humidity are your enemy every time though. The way I combat this is as follows. Keep everything inside at all times. When I need to spray in the cold I get everything ready indoors and then go outside, spray, and then get it all back inside real quick like and let it dry in room temps. Humidity though is never going to be your friend. Just try to avoid spraying on those days.

And, yes, Testors dullcoat is the bomb. That little green trimmed can is an absolute godsend. Above rules still aplly though.

I actually spent the extra bucks and use artist grade matt clear coat spray that you put onto water colors, oils, acrylic paintings.

It may all be the same stuff, but I've never had an issue using it for over 10 years.

But to answer the OPs question, I've heard good things about respraying with a gloss coat then redoing the clear coat. Best of luck.

Ive had problems with the Krylon clear...and really dont recommend it. Ive found it to be far too sensitive to moisture/humidity. Its highly prone to clouding.

Your problem is either from moisture/humidity or spraying too close or too heavy. Spray from 10-12 inches away, dont get too close. Dont spray in the rain or high humidity. Also, always use several light coats, not a single heavy one.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

The_Juggler wrote:

Sarigar wrote:I used Testors brush cleaner (used to clean off brushes when using enamel paints). I brushed on the cleaner and most of the frosting went away. It cost around 2 dollars for a bottle and learned not to spray outdoors on humid days.

Can I get a second opinion on this? This sounds like a really good idea, I'm willing to give it a try if there are no warnings or precautions.

Be careful...if you used solvent based paints they may dissolve and run.

The_Juggler wrote:

Sarigar wrote:I used Testors brush cleaner (used to clean off brushes when using enamel paints). I brushed on the cleaner and most of the frosting went away. It cost around 2 dollars for a bottle and learned not to spray outdoors on humid days.

Can I get a second opinion on this? This sounds like a really good idea, I'm willing to give it a try if there are no warnings or precautions.

http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=256
I use this stuff (in the above link) to fix blushing that can't be fixed with another coat of clear coat (i.e. your first coat is too thick and the damage isn't just topical). Brushing on the brush cleaner sounds very similar as this is also a solvent that will disolve some of the finish, allowing it to set properly. It takes a few coats if your clear coat is completely curred but definitely works wonders.

I avoid this problem by using 'Future' floor polish to protect the figure. it is a very thin (and thinable) liquid designed to protect flooring. It is minutely flexible when hard and will not yellow with age. It does go on shiney, however, but a quality acrylic matte will work its magic should you need it.

Use the material sparingly though.

If you get the clear coat on badly immidiately apply some paint thinner (aka mineral spirits) which should wash it away quickly. If you apply it with a brush and have used acrylic paints, you should be able to get rid of the excess without damaging the paintjob. However if you've waited til it dries, it may be too late.

I agree with folks that it could be the spray, but more likely it's a humidity issue. I've used many brands of clearcoat and only had this bad results when I put it over some dipped figures that had not fully dried yet.

The best way to fix bad clearcoat is still just to put another coat of gloss on top of it, then another attempt at matte on top of THAT.

These clearcoats all use chemicals to slightly dissolve the underlying surface and the gloss has the most of it. It will basically melt the fuzzy surface of the underlying matte and render it clear again. Then another layer of matte on top of that removes the shine.

Do some arctic/snow base son them. It looks like frost...