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Made in us
Morphing Obliterator





San Francisco, CA

hi gang,

I'm working on my first landspeeder and I'm seeing inconsistencies in the color on some of the flat surfaces I've done so far. I don't see this sort of thing on my marines, so I'm not sure what I'm doing differently. sometimes it looks like very faint brush marks and other times it looks like the color just isn't as thick in certain spots. it's subtle and you can only see it up close, but I know it's there and it bugs me.

here's what I'm doing: on top of white primer, I build up the basecoat using about 4 layers of GW goblin green mixed with equal parts thinner (10:1 water/flow-aid). you can still see white through the first couple layers, like I'd used a heavy wash or something. as the next couple layers go on, the color evens out but I can't seem to get it consistent; some bits look slightly lighter than others. I don't think my lighting setup for my camera can do the difference justice, or I'd post pics.

I've tried using larger and smaller brushes, loading the brush with different amounts of paint and applying different amounts of paint as a single layer, but once it dries I still see inconsistencies. is this normal? should I just add another layer or two or am I boning it somewhere else in the process?

cheers

Night Lords P&M Blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/502731.page
Salamanders P&M Blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/436120.page

"Sternguard though, those guys are all about kicking ass. They'd chew bubble gum as well, but bubble gum is heretical. Only tau chew gum." - MajorStoffer

"Everytime I see someone write a message in tactics saying they need help because they keep loosing games, I want to drive my face through my own keyboard." - Jimsolo 
   
Made in ca
Avatar of the Bloody-Handed God





Inactive

5 watery layers of GW paint.

or

1-2 layers of vallejo. your free will ^_~

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Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




Nottingham, UK

Sounds like you actually do have brush strokes.

To avoid brush strokes I was taught this:

1) Use a spray gun / airbrush. Take your time in masking off. Preparation is what takes the time here.

or

2) The 'traditional' way.
a) Use the largest, softest brush you can. A 1/8" - 1/4" flat brush is great. Watercolour brushes tend to have good flexibility and hold a nice edge (tip).
b) Allow each layer to dry before doing the next. A hairdryer can help.
c) Paint evenly across the brush strokes from the previous layer. ie up-down then left-right, then up-down. Do not paint in random directions.
d) Edge in early on - 2nd layer, then resume the previous technique.
e) Thin paint, even flow - don't make a wash, don't make a paste. It should flow off the brush not run.

 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






I did a post on my blog with some things to consider when it comes to painting vehicles without an airbrush.
It might help you avoid some common pitfalls.: http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2012/01/7-tips-for-painting-vehicles-without.html

If you have any questions, let me know on the blog and I'll help you out.

When people ask me, "How do you build your army?"
I tell them its "The ten-zero factor, coolness ten, combat effectiveness... zero."

Founder, From the Warp
A blog dedicated to modeling and painting in the 40k universe 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




UK

Theres nothing wrong with GW paint, Vallejo isn't 'better', just different. Switching certainly wouldn't be a magic bullet to get a smooth coat.

Winterdyne is the man to listen to. I find a good quality brush makes a big difference too. Rosemary and Co series 55 or similar would be a good balance between performance and price if you can get them over there.
   
Made in us
Morphing Obliterator





San Francisco, CA

@winterdyne and RonSalkowski: thanks for the tips! I've been making some of the very mistakes that ron talks about in his blog post (excellent post, btw). between that and the steps winterdyne has outlined here, I think know what I need to change in my process.

thanks guys

Night Lords P&M Blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/502731.page
Salamanders P&M Blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/436120.page

"Sternguard though, those guys are all about kicking ass. They'd chew bubble gum as well, but bubble gum is heretical. Only tau chew gum." - MajorStoffer

"Everytime I see someone write a message in tactics saying they need help because they keep loosing games, I want to drive my face through my own keyboard." - Jimsolo 
   
Made in ca
Avatar of the Bloody-Handed God





Inactive

Skippy wrote:Theres nothing wrong with GW paint, Vallejo isn't 'better', just different.

I take it that you tried vallejo paints before? especially the light colors that GW couldnt coat properly?

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Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




UK

I have a collection of GW and vallejo paints that I've been using for years. One range isn't better than the other. Certain colours are better in each range, but overall very similar. The droppers bottles are the main difference imo.

But this is getting off topic. Changing paint brand wont solve varls problem and he already pretty much has the answers he needs so ill say no more on the issue
   
Made in us
Fully-charged Electropriest





Virginia

I was getting good results when using the side of the brush also.

   
 
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