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I've ordered a Paache Talon (http://www.ebay.com/itm/370593626739?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649) and my question is: do the old citadel foundation paints work well with it? Thinned of course, but will they cause problems and/or clog the airbrush?

I have a Iwata HP-CS and I have used foundation paints just fine. I usually just have to thin them down more than the normal paints.

Okay, so maybe I'd have to put on an extra coat with it thinned down more? Sounds good.

susejo239 wrote:Okay, so maybe I'd have to put on an extra coat with it thinned down more? Sounds good.

Honestly I haven't had to really do extra coats. I assume they just have more pigment and that would be why. When I use them they haven't really needed a second coat but I guess it just depends on how much it is thinned.

It would also depend on the foundation, too, most likely. I'm going to be using Macharius Solor Orange, and we all know how orange and yellow paints are.

susejo239 wrote:It would also depend on the foundation, too, most likely. I'm going to be using Macharius Solor Orange, and we all know how orange and yellow paints are.

True. Blah... good luck with those paints.

Thanks. First time airbrushing, so I might need it...

I have had 0 problems with the foundations. In fact I have had fewer issues with them than GWs normal paints. Just make sure to use a proper medium. When I started out I was using windex and I could not get it to work for me. Liquitex AB Medium is incredibly forgiving comparatively.

~Casey

What about water? Would that work?

Water can work, but it goes on real wet. I usually use Tamiya's X-20A Thinner, which is basically denatured alcohol. Rubbing alcohol works as well, but not as nicely.

I've also tried airbrushing the new base and layers as well, they work just fine.

Just make sure your paint mixture is about the consistency of milk, rather than any particular portion/ratio.

Yeah, no problems here spraying foundations. It's not just the consistency though remember, the paint molecule size has a large effect on its behavior in an airbrush.
Foundation paints have a larger molecule, vinyl-heavy base when compared to other more latex-heavy bases (paints with a lot of vinyl in them cover much better, and separate out like gak when thinned). Larger needle sizes are therefore better suited to shooting Foundations, although with some considerable thinning and an increase in pressure, I can still use them through a .15, it's just a bit iffy and tends to clog more often etc. I have no such problems in a .4 for example.

Agatheron wrote:Rubbing alcohol works as well, but not as nicely.

How so? Does it dry too quickly?

I've prayed Iyandan Darksun and Dheneb Stone through the Airbrush. Only problem i had was with dhened stone and faster than normal tip dry, but thats pretty common with certain colours.

susejo239 wrote:

Agatheron wrote:Rubbing alcohol works as well, but not as nicely.

How so? Does it dry too quickly?

Nope. Although it does dry quickly once it is on the model. With rubbing alcohol it's 70% alc and 30% water. With denatured alcohol (Tamiya X20A) it's closer to 90/10. As such you don't get quite as fine atomization of the paint as you will with the denatured alcohol. It's certainly still doable. I used it to thin the foundations through the spray gun when I did my Realm of Battle board. I much prefer using it to water even through the Spraygun. Alcohol evaporates and dries much faster.

One thing that people have mentioned, no matter what paint you use, you will get some accumulation of paint on the needle, which will mess up your spraying. This is normal, just use your fingernail to pull the dried paint off the tip of the needle periodically. S'jet is right that the foundations do tend to accumulate on the needle tip faster, but if you keep an eye on it, it's not a problem.

I am about to try it with my Badger 150 and Jokaero Orange (I'm afraid to try it with my Renegade Krome)- Pics will follow!

Please do show them! I'm curious to see them.

I posted all the pics over at my P&M Blog
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/8310/399826.page
pg. 278

But I think maybe 70/30 Jokaero Orange / Testors thinner may have been a bit too thin, a second coat will tell.


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2 Coats here:

@dsteingass
thats a good looking coat!

im actually gonna try dheneb stone through my airbrush this week. so im glad to find the info in this thread

I've been running Calthan Brown and Tallarn Flesh thru my airbrush for this commission I'm doing, and it works wonderfully.

How much do you thin the Calthan Brown?

For a new pot of Calthan Brown I generally add 10-15 drops of 10:1 Water/Flo Aid mix, and 5 drops of Slo Dry. That is standard for every paint I buy.

Then when airbrushing it, I take the above mix and use it 5:4 with Liquitex Airbrush Medium.

What air pressure are you using?

I based all my necron in mechrite red with an Iwata hp eclipse. I used liquitex as the medium. The ratio was 60% Medium 40% Paint. I ran at just under 30 psi. Siphon feed.

Another friendly tip. Mask off the flight stand with painters tape and cling wrap. I made that same mistake :-P

dsteingass wrote:What air pressure are you using?

20-30 in most cases.

Heh..That is the stand for painting- This ended up on a clean one ')