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Made in au
Automated Rubric Marine of Tzeentch





Perth

Just went to play a game of 40k and had 8 terminators come off bases, 6 marines have arms fall off and this was as selecting models for deployment........

what is this? is this a known thing? am i not using enough glue? they were put together 4 months ago, im in perth wa and its not even a hot day and they disintegrated....

anyone got a suggestion for what is a better way to do this? superglue the plastic models?

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Made in gb
Hallowed Canoness





Between

Toss your GW plastic glue in the bin and go buy some Humbrol poly cement.



"That time I only loaded the cannon with powder. Next time, I will fill it with jewels and diamonds and they will cut you to shrebbons!" - Nogbad the Bad. 
   
Made in ca
Wing Commander






GW plastic glue suffers from extreme inconsistency.

The batch I've got works like a charm, the batch one of my mates has won't adhere anything together, and his entire army fell apart whenever anyone touched it.

Generally speaking, the thick plastic glue works better than the thin, but it's still pretty inconsistent. There are better alternatives on the market, as while it works well when it's a good match, but you can never be certain.

Therefore, I conclude, Valve should announce Half Life 2: Episode 3.
 
   
Made in gb
Boom! Leman Russ Commander




Northampton

I use superglue on everything.

Aside from being allergic to citadel plastic glue, I hate the fact it doesn't stick anything.

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Made in au
Lady of the Lake






This stuff is what you're after. Usually cheaper, you get more anyway and it's way better.



Usually mentioning it will start a parade praising it.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/03/25 08:13:02


   
Made in us
Dark Angels Librarian with Book of Secrets






Plastic glue is junk. Use super glue.
   
Made in us
Big Mek in Kustom Dragster with Soopa-Gun





Nebraska, USA

I use the cheap superglue at my local store thats $1.49 for 2 tubes about the size of my thumb. It lasts several models, holds well, and...its dirt cheap!
Only issue with it is its a bit watery so you gotta be a bit ginger with it. They have a gel thats about 50c more, same quality cheapness and random brand but works very well for the few situations the watery stuff wont work.

I have some of that Revell stuff, but my issue with it is it STINKS lol. Also the tube likes to seal over, ive had to poke a hole through it with a tiny wire many times.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/03/25 08:32:17


An ork with an idea tends to end with a bang.

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Made in nz
Lurking Gaunt





New zealand

i use the pots of tamiya plastic cement, ive never had any problems with it, it is cheap and has lasted for years i would reccomend it 100%

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Made in fi
Longtime Dakkanaut




Humbrol plastic glue is the best I've used. That Revell glue is also good, I use it for large models particularly, but sometimes you need more mass for the joints.

I never use super glue for plastic models. Not only it is really annoying to use and vapours makes my eyes burn, but it's actually less durable than plastic glue.

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Made in au
Screaming Shining Spear





Western Australia

There was a bad batch here in Perth - I know a few guys who had the same thing happen... Use the revel one suggested and your gold

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Made in gb
Grim Dark Angels Interrogator-Chaplain





Earth

For the love of god stay away from gw glue, it's expensive and totally awful, it doesn't stick anything together and sort of crystalises in the area you want glueing, this means if you want to do it properly, you need to scrape off the gw "fineglue"
   
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Automated Rubric Marine of Tzeentch





Perth

oh im staying away from it now, wouldnt give it to locals to sniff haha

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Made in us
Colonel





This Is Where the Fish Lives

Don't use superglue on plastic (it works fine on resin and metal, however) because it is just a surface bond as opposed to plastic cement which pretty much welds the plastic together.

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Deadly Dark Eldar Warrior





London

 n0t_u wrote:
This stuff is what you're after. Usually cheaper, you get more anyway and it's way better.



Usually mentioning it will start a parade praising it.


I'm joining the parade! That stuff is amazing. The needle is easy to clog but not if you look after it properly.

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Made in us
1st Lieutenant




Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA

 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
Don't use superglue on plastic (it works fine on resin and metal, however) because it is just a surface bond as opposed to plastic cement which pretty much welds the plastic together.


I wouldn't say that. Yes, it is just a surface bond, but it's a strong surface bond. And, in the off chance you need to do something to the model (like switch weapons out or the like, and you didn't magnetize it), super-glue can be neatly removed, the part switched, and reapplied with no issues.

Both have uses, but super-glue is cheaper, more effective on a wide range of models, and a bit more forgiving

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Decrepit Dakkanaut






New Orleans, LA

I use super glue on plastic all of the time. I buy the generic plastic and super glues from my local Hobby Store (Hobby Lobby), and have never had problem with the bond. I do have problems with the nozzles if I don't sweep them clean with a paper clip after each use, though.

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Made in au
Automated Rubric Marine of Tzeentch





Perth

just gonna ask this here.... whats the word on glues for WarMachine stuff? i was looking into have a gander at it as a small aside from 40k.... and i hear its made of a different stuff? anyone here know?

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Freaky Flayed One




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I use Loctite gel control super glue. For those very quick repairs I hit it with zip kicker. Very rare anything fall apart. GW glue is nothing but a waist of money.

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Flashy Flashgitz






I also use Loctite. Sometimes I get the gel, sometimes I get the liquid. They're good for different jobs I suppose. I've never had anything fall apart.

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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






I have used the plastic glue from GW with no issues. Now their other glue, thats garbage. Going to try J B weld for metal next, hopeing for better luck this time. Been through about 4 different adhesives for metal with no luck.

My only issue with GW plastic glue is the cost, I will try some of the above suggestions and see how things go.


 
   
Made in au
Lady of the Lake






 ausYenLoWang wrote:
just gonna ask this here.... whats the word on glues for WarMachine stuff? i was looking into have a gander at it as a small aside from 40k.... and i hear its made of a different stuff? anyone here know?


It's sort of a resin plastic hybrid thing. The plastic glue won't work on it.

   
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Big Mek in Kustom Dragster with Soopa-Gun





Nebraska, USA

Super glue grabs plastic insanely well. Yes, its not as solid as some options but its really cheap and it does work. Ive never had a model come apart that was superglued unless i was intentially pulling it off, which usually works fine.

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Made in ca
Dour Wolf Priest with Iron Wolf Amulet






Canada

 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
Don't use superglue on plastic (it works fine on resin and metal, however) because it is just a surface bond as opposed to plastic cement which pretty much welds the plastic together.


 Vineheart01 wrote:
Super glue grabs plastic insanely well. Yes, its not as solid as some options but its really cheap and it does work. Ive never had a model come apart that was superglued unless i was intentially pulling it off, which usually works fine.

These. In fact, I like that super glued plastic allows me to remove bits from the model if I want to change them in the future (I'm looking at you, powerfists). If you can't be bothered with switching out glues, super glue's the good catch-all.

   
Made in nz
Boom! Leman Russ Commander




New Zealand

GW might make nice models but their modelling supplies leave a lot to be desired.

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Made in au
Norn Queen






 CrabSlap wrote:
 n0t_u wrote:
This stuff is what you're after. Usually cheaper, you get more anyway and it's way better.



Usually mentioning it will start a parade praising it.


I'm joining the parade! That stuff is amazing. The needle is easy to clog but not if you look after it properly.


Thirded.

Even if the needle clogs, simply pull it out, get a lighter, and run the flame along the needle. The clog will melt and shoot out. Then put the needle back in.

It's pretty common to see peoples applicator needles covered in scorch marks for this reason.

However, this glue is fantastic. If you're after a plastic bond, this stuff will bond so well it'll be like they weren't ever separate peices.
   
Made in us
Big Mek in Kustom Dragster with Soopa-Gun





Nebraska, USA

Actually GW's saw is very nice and i prefer their greenstuff over other sources. Thats about it i use from their modelings aside from the paint obviously lol.

Also i forgot to mention: Superglue actually SUCKS on metal whered you get the idea it works? You have to either glue it in a way where you dont have to hold it, or hold it for eons as the metal is too heavy and will pull the partly-cured glue off every time. I think i spent 4 hours gluing my metal Ghazzy together cuz every time i got him together, i'd take 5 steps and hear "Clunk!" lol

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Ultramarine Librarian with Freaky Familiar





Southern California, USA

I used a bottle of GW glue when I got my first models. They are still holding together after 2 years but that bottle ran out -fast-.

I got a bottle of testors glue and it's still going. My only problem with it is that glue tends to keep dribbling out so it sometimes causes the cap to stick on. I can pull it off but it's a PITA.

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Waaagh! Warbiker





Granite city, IL

I go to a store called dollar tree. They've got a glue and a gel. both for a buck. the water glue is three tubes and the gel is two. Never lets me down. and if I want to take apart a model for any reason, it's super easy! I stand by it 100%

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Made in de
Kovnik






Revell is the good stuff.
The applicator is a godsend (easily cleaned the =I= way: Rip the metal thing out, use a lighter and enjoy some hot glue sprinkles shooting through your room with a neat sploosh-sound), it´s quite cheap and pretty long-lasting.
It holds tight enough but if you really want to you can always snap the parts apart with some force.
But yeah it smells pretty bad...
   
Made in us
Hoary Long Fang with Lascannon





Seattle, WA

I use two different glues.

One is Testor's plastic cement. I use it when there's a good connection as I like how it welds the pieces together. Things like torso halves and guns on the Predator sponsons. The weld in the join helps to cover and fill the seam.

I've tried several different super glues. Cheapo stuff from the bargain hardware store. 1 out of 3 batches was good.

This is what I use now:


It's sold to many hobby shops as they can put their name on it. All the bottles look the same. There are many different types, super thin, thin, etc. This is the type I use as it's thick enough to fill gaps and stay where you want it, but thin enough that it will still wick into places and dries quickly with a very solid hold. It's also the cheapest I've found. I've used Loc-Tite gel with a special applicator bottle. It's really just hollow with a tiny squeeze tube inside. This you get much much more for the same cost, and it's a better glue. I won't use anything else. I'm just glad one of my small local shops carries it so they get the support.

Here's an Amazon Link: http://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-108-Insta-Cure-Filling/dp/B0000DD1QQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1364255051&sr=8-4&keywords=Insta-Cure+%2B

Here's the site for the manufacturer that lists their other adhesives: http://bsi-inc.com

I haven't used any of the other types. They're sold in various sized bottles too. Dirt cheap online (cheaper even than my hobby store)!

I just wish it had a smaller applicator but that's just being nit picky.It's the only applicator I've had that the glue easily wipes off of with bit of paper towel and stays very clean. Best glue there is.

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