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Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





USA

Hey all, just thought I'd share my successful experiment from last night with some tips and lessons learned.

I set about wanting to duplicate some space marine iconography that I like on various weapons and armor bits. Though I've done resin casting before, it didn't seem worth the set up and time so I decided on a press mold using green stuff (50/50 mix of magic sculpt and GS actually). A quick search on google/youtube showed people creating a GS sandwich around original item so that the top half gives you the actual cast. That seemed like a waste of GS so I set about creating a reusable mold. I was also attempting to cast some icons that were part of larger bits and at odd angles.

Here are the instructions with some pics and results.


Tools and Materials:
- Green stuff. Optionally can mix with other putties. I use about 50/50 with magic sculpt has it creates a softer putty that picks up details better.
- Hobby knife
- Clay shapers and other basic sculpting tools (will only be used to press and smooth GS)
- Vaseline (you could also try vegetable oil)
- Items/bits to be casted


Steps:

1) Mix up your GS and create a flat piece larger than your item/bit and at least twice as thick. Lay this on a flat surface and smooth out using the clay shaper with some vaseline (only need a tiny bit, you should see the GS become shiny). Note that the vaseline is not only used for smoothing but also to keep the item/bit from stick to the GS when it cures, which is why I don't advise just using water or saliva.

2) Firmly press item/bit into the GS as far down as you'd like the cast to be (e.g. for the full 3d wolf head, I stuck it in half way)

3) Gently push the GS into the sides of the item/bit to create a good seal and hard outline

4) Let cure completely. Have a scrap piece of GS from the same batch to test the "curedness"



5) Remove original item/bit, this should be fairly straight forward, especially if it is larger than your mold

Mold is done!

6) To cast, begin by mixing up a fresh batch of GS.

7) Apply a tiny bit of vaseline to the mold (everywhere)

8) Take a piece of GS flatten it slightly on one side, smooth that side and apply vaseline to that side. (to keep it from sticking to the mold)

9) Press the GS into the mold, make sure it is filling it up. Press firmly with a clay shaper if you have to. I also took the flat part of my knife and laid it across the entire mold and pressed gently.

10) Now, I did not let it cure completely because I was paranoid about being able to remove the cast and worried that it would either stick or, once hard, become too brittle to remove easily. I removed the cast after about 2 hours (GS firm but still bendable). This was quite easy to do and has the benefit of allowing you to bend the cast before it dries completely if you want to stick it onto a curved surface.

11) Let the cast sit out and cure.

12) Trim away excess GS and you're done!


Original items, molds, casts (still curing). Note there is a little fudge up on the skull's forehead. I think its probably because of the small circular aperture of the mold so hard to get a smooth piece of GS in there all the way for the cast.


Close up of the casts. Apologies for the bad lighting


Tips/Lessons Learned:
- This whole process does not have to be done perfects. I did this fairly sloppily and very quickly and I am extremely happy with the results.
- Remember to wash off the vaseline from your casts so that glue or paint adheres to them well.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/04/10 15:34:49


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Made in us
Powerful Orc Big'Un





Somewhere in the steamy jungles of the south...

Well, they look fairly good, but do you have any example of what these look like painted? Also, the results you got here look quite good on one side, but the other side would be flat. That's rather limiting, isn't it?

~Tim?

   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





USA

Well the whole point was to make icons to put on flat surfaces like shoulder pads and vehicle plates.

Press molds are generally considered to be one side only.

Sorry nothing painted yet though, I'll update when I do.

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Made in gb
Lord of the Fleet






London

I'm sure that once the mould is cured you could easily just mix up another batch of GS to create the second half, using something like a couple of ball-bearings to keep the moulds positioned correctly. If I'm honest my expectations for this tutorial wern't that high but the results you've shown far exceedes what I was expecting.
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





USA

 Valkyrie wrote:
I'm sure that once the mould is cured you could easily just mix up another batch of GS to create the second half, using something like a couple of ball-bearings to keep the moulds positioned correctly. If I'm honest my expectations for this tutorial wern't that high but the results you've shown far exceedes what I was expecting.


Haha thanks, I had the same expectations, it was just an experiment.

But yea, if you need a two sided mold, you're better off using a real resin cast kit or blu-stuff

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Made in gb
Splattered With Acrylic Paint




Uk, South

Once you cast the first would, you essentially have all you need. you make a negative mould from your orginal allowing you to make a mould for the second half. then you just trim the excess and marry up the two. if my logic stands.

Great tutorial. i've never thought of using my GS to make moulds for icons
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





USA

Hmm, I keep going back and forth on your logic and I don't think it works. I was trying to make a wolf head facing the other direction and there is no way without using the original bit turned around. The "negative" will be the same as your original mould since the side of the mould and cast is always flat

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Made in gb
Splattered With Acrylic Paint




Uk, South

I think you may be right there, Still you can always mould the other half. then you have a choice of which way your decal faces etc.
   
Made in au
Freaky Flayed One



Australia

 Valkyrie wrote:
I'm sure that once the mould is cured you could easily just mix up another batch of GS to create the second half, using something like a couple of ball-bearings to keep the moulds positioned correctly. If I'm honest my expectations for this tutorial wern't that high but the results you've shown far exceedes what I was expecting.


I do greenstuff casts for scarabs (legalities? Ehh I have at least one actual scarab for every base I have as a minimum so I'd only use 1 scarab per base otherwise) and due to the small size of it I don't have to use a ball bearing.

GSC in general doesn't seem to require it as the bearing slots are there more for 2-mould objects anyway, if the object is big enough.

DR:70+S--G-M-B++IPw40k03--D++A+/fWD-R-T(R)DM+ 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





USA

 Muzzah wrote:
I think you may be right there, Still you can always mould the other half. then you have a choice of which way your decal faces etc.


Yup, thats what I did.

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Made in gb
Stealthy Grot Snipa





Ive been trying to update and improve my modelling skills as of late and a product i must recommend for molds like these is oyumaru. For some reason I can't link it as my other tabs are crashing (got them working sorta - http://www.tesco.com/direct/oyumaru-reusable-modelling-compound-clear-6-pack/550-2160.prd?pageLevel=&skuId=550-2160&kpid=550-2160&sc_cmp=ppc_g__&gclid=CIOqxcuk97YCFXHLtAodWi0A3w)

but for simple molds this stuff was fantastic. Here's an example of my WIP mek where I first used it to make moulds.



The parts that are from the molds are the shoulder mask, the robe piece on the left thats sitting atop the rest of the robe and the chain running down under his head.
I used it simply by pressing the original pieces in just like you did with the GS and it only takes 10-15 minutes to set. Then I used pure GS (although I am now using mixes). Plenty of sites can give you all the advantages and such so i wont go on, but i have been highly impressed with the stuff and seriously recommend it. Pretty cheap, re-useable and if you look there are plenty of videos on how to do 2 part molds with it.



Favourite Game: When your Warboss on bike wrecks 3 vehicles simply by HoW - especially when his bike is a custom monowheel.

 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





USA

Cool model and cool technique, thanks. How is the detail resolution on the oyumaru? It doesn't deform at all since its heat based?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/05/02 17:37:07


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Made in us
Boosting Black Templar Biker





Oyumaru (also sold as Instamold) captures detail quite well and does not stick to greenstuff, so you don't need a release agent. Greenstuff wont generate enough heat to deform it, two part resin may come close but it hasn't in my tests. The water needs to be at 160 degrees f for it to soften.One tip you may want to try is keeping a glass of cold water near by. Basically you dip the mold and the source object into the cold water and it will set right away.

FYI the warstore is selling repacked oyumaru under the name Magic Mold in an assortment of colors.

 
   
Made in nl
Regular Dakkanaut





The Netherlands, Europe

From which set is the "bird head backpack"?

 
   
Made in au
Boom! Leman Russ Commander





Brisbane, Australia

there's a company that makes pressmoulds, it's a blue product. if I find it I'll leave if for you guys.

 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





USA

heavybolter - thanks! I'll check it out

Tim - space marine commander (found the mini in my local store bits bin for $2!)

scipio - you talking about blu-stuff? that was my inspiration, masteroftheforge.com has a tutorial using that

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Made in gb
Stealthy Grot Snipa





heavybolter wrote:
Oyumaru (also sold as Instamold) captures detail quite well and does not stick to greenstuff, so you don't need a release agent. Greenstuff wont generate enough heat to deform it, two part resin may come close but it hasn't in my tests. The water needs to be at 160 degrees f for it to soften.


These are the reasons I enjoy it so much. In fact i created some backpacks last night and i'll post pictures when I get home, the detail kept is really good. But I think you meant 60 Degrees heavybolter? As I put my oyumaru in boiling water (<100) to soften it

Pics inc:

Favourite Game: When your Warboss on bike wrecks 3 vehicles simply by HoW - especially when his bike is a custom monowheel.

 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User





USA

I think heavybolter was talking fahrenheit?

Can't see your pics btw solar shock...very curious

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Made in us
Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws





New Jersey

You need to get some Blu Stuff, its made for press molds and green stuff will not stick to it.

http://blu-stuff.com/

   
 
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