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Hi there,
So, I've experienced this for some time now that some of my models just break apart at the points where I glued them. E.g. the torsos of my models come off the legs, arms easily break off , bases fall off...
At first I thought that this is maybe due to those models getting crushed in my figure case but now my new CSM models that have never been in the case or had pressure on them in other ways start falling apart, too.
As you can probably imagine, this is really annoying and makes me not wanting to paint my models anymore. After all, I don't want to put time into painting models that just keep breaking.
I use the GW plastic glue and buy a new one every 3 months or so, so I don't think this has something to do with the glue being old.
So please, if you have experienced something like this, or you can tell me what I'm doing wrong, tell me!
Thank you in advance.

I use the GW plastic glue

Well, there is your problem... that stuff is utter junk. Buy yourself a good plastic cement (Humbrol, Revel Contacta, Testors Model Master, etc.) and you will no longer have that problem.

Thanks, I I'll try that. It's probably also cheaper.

It would also depend on what models you are putting together. If they are resin or metal then plastic glue won't work. I use Loctite super glue control gel. I can't get pieces to come off when I want them to be removed.

No, it's plastic models I'm talking about. This Loctite gel you said you are using, is that for metal/resin or for plastic as well. And I guess you are using the normal version, not the liquid one?

GW glue is seriously awful. I actually just use superglue for everything that I don't magnetise. Rather cheap superglue that I get from a local home supplies sort of place. It comes in packs of five tiny tubes, which are absolutely perfect for applying glue on miniatures.

Superglue works on everything. To my knowledge, most people use plastic cement glue for plastic minis and superglue for metal/resin. If you're going for plastic glue, get the kind that's used by model train hobbyists. Not only is it much cheaper than GW glue, it often comes in a handy applicator bottle with a pipette for really small-scale applications.

As UnCool Villain said, however, getting superglued parts off is next to impossible unless you physically cut the parts off. The bonus is that a totally superglued miniature feels as though the entire mini is a single cast (in terms of how well bonded the pieces are). Attempting to pull off a Space Marine's arm if it has been bonded with superglue is probably going to result in the actual model tearing, that's how strong it is.

Although, it is somewhat amusing how GW-glued minis seem to actually explode when given any sort of pressure. It isn't fun, though. -.-

The reason I always recommend super glue is you don't need anything else. For the most part it is very strong (depending on brand). Then you don't have to have multiple types of glue but YMMV.

I had the same problem with GW glue. Once I started using gorilla glue, I rarely have models that fall apart.

I have found that generic super glue does not work very well, especially not when the models are frequently handled. I use Crazy Glue for all of my plastic models, and it works very well.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
I have found that generic super glue does not work very well, especially not when the models are frequently handled. I use Crazy Glue for all of my plastic models, and it works very well.

The best cement to use is liquid polystyrene cement for polystyrene models, super glue for resin models, and epoxy (Araldite) or E6000 for metal.

Super glue will work all right for metal but there is a chance they will crack apart at the seams.

If you use the wrong type of cement you may damage the model. For example, E6000 attacks polystyrene.

I might also suggest that you consider looking into pinning, if you haven't already. It's not typically necessary for a lot of applications, but for those particularly stubborn situations, pinning is boss.

YOUTUBE IT!!!!

I pinned every arm on my full squad of Bane Thralls, the arms on my 3 casters, the arms on both my Slayer helljacks, and they're resilient as hell. Drop them, knock 'em over, tossed 1 by accident today.... Reason for pinning in these situations is because it's an interesting combination of Metal, resin, and plastic all at the same time lol.

Thanks everyone!
So, I'll see what glues my local crafts store sells and then try one of those.
@fenrir1997: I might give pinning a go for my larger models. I've actually never tried it before...
Does anyone know why GW doesn't sell better glue? I mean, surely they don't want their customers to buy glue in other shops.

A bit late but thought I would chip in. I had the same issues with GW glue, I switched to Revel Contacta and would never change. One tip if you use this is if it blocks after a couple weeks of non use a lighter on the end to burn it away, good as new.

Superglue will work on everything (finecast) but also your fingets!

I use Revell Contacta even for resin models. It's not optimal, I know. It breaks if you make some pressure on it, but standatd is absolutely without any problem.
When you screw something up, it could be easily repaired by breaking it, brushing off remains of glue and gluing it again.

A bit late but thought I would chip in. I had the same issues with GW glue, I switched to Revel Contacta and would never change. One tip if you use this is if it blocks after a couple weeks of non use a lighter on the end to burn it away, good as new.

Superglue will work on everything (finecast) but also your fingets!

It's never too late . I googled the Revel Contacta glue and people seem to like it. Thanks for the hint with the lighter, I will definitely do that if I go for this glue. Now, it appears like you are using the glue with the needle, what do you think of the one with the brush?

I use Revell Contacta even for resin models. It's not optimal, I know. It breaks if you make some pressure on it, but standatd is absolutely without any problem.
When you screw something up, it could be easily repaired by breaking it, brushing off remains of glue and gluing it again.

For now I will only use it for plastic. Tbh I try to avoid finecast but it's good to know that this glue works for both. Good to know that this glue can easily be brushed off. I hate it when the plastic glue bonds break and I can't stick them back together .

I've been using Amazing Goop the whole time of gamed.
I buy it at michaels

Revell Contacta or any other polystyrene cement does NOT work on resin. The only adhesion properties it has on resin are the drying of the carrier in the glue. Polystyrene cement works by melting the two pieces together. If you are working with Finecast, use superglue.

 FlamestormA wrote:
Hi there,
So, I've experienced this for some time now that some of my models just break apart at the points where I glued them. E.g. the torsos of my models come off the legs, arms easily break off , bases fall off...
At first I thought that this is maybe due to those models getting crushed in my figure case but now my new CSM models that have never been in the case or had pressure on them in other ways start falling apart, too.
As you can probably imagine, this is really annoying and makes me not wanting to paint my models anymore. After all, I don't want to put time into painting models that just keep breaking.
I use the GW plastic glue and buy a new one every 3 months or so, so I don't think this has something to do with the glue being old.
So please, if you have experienced something like this, or you can tell me what I'm doing wrong, tell me!
Thank you in advance.

Yeh, like other people have said, get yourself a Revell Contacta Professional glue, 25g (the large size) and I've had mine well over a year and never had problems with models falling apart.

That said, it depends what you're using the plastic glue on? If you're using it on finecast, plastic glue doesn't work, just use superglue from the £1 shop (I've found some with a brush applicator) it's better than paying GW's extortionate prices

I use Loctite Regular Super Glue with the long tip. Its $3 at walmart. Its great for my plastic models and whenever i wanna switch arms its easy to just snap off.

 Hawky wrote:
I use Revell Contacta even for resin models. It's not optimal, I know. It breaks if you make some pressure on it, but standatd is absolutely without any problem.
When you screw something up, it could be easily repaired by breaking it, brushing off remains of glue and gluing it again.

It isn't optimal because it isn't designed for use on resin

If all you models are falling apart, there must be a problem besides the quality of the glue. I have had no issues at all with the GW glue. I bought other glues to try them out and might go for Revell Contacta.

As others have mentioned, of course plastic glue only really works on plastic. It melts the plastic and fuses it together. To be able to do that it needs a bit of the plastic glue and good plastic surfaces in contact that are kept still and in contact for a short while until there is some grip and then left to completely dry. Mold lines, uneven contact, too much plastic glue, adjusting the position of the piece minutes after gluing it on or bumping the model before it is completely set again, all of these things can compromise the integrity of the bond. Even using better quality glue will not change that.

Of course you could use super glue for plastic models, just like for resin and metal models. However, I find plastic glue actually better than super glue and use it where possible. Plastic glue squeezeout can be just wiped off without sticking to tissues or fingers. It creates a bond that is pretty much as strong as a solid piece of plastic would be. Superglue can only stick to both surfaces, plastic glue melts them together.

One final thought. Unlike metal and resin models, plastic models don't come covered in release agent gunk that you need to clean off to get paint or glue to stick. However, depending on what you did with the minis before glueup - like maybe remove old colour from them first - it may be necessary to wash them with dishwashing detergent to get some chemicals or grease off them.

Yeh, like other people have said, get yourself a Revell Contacta Professional glue, 25g (the large size) and I've had mine well over a year and never had problems with models falling apart.

That said, it depends what you're using the plastic glue on? If you're using it on finecast, plastic glue doesn't work, just use superglue from the £1 shop (I've found some with a brush applicator) it's better than paying GW's extortionate prices

Nah, I only use plastic glue for plastic. But its good to know that many people use and like the revell contacta glue.

Revell Contacta or any other polystyrene cement does NOT work on resin. The only adhesion properties it has on resin are the drying of the carrier in the glue. Polystyrene cement works by melting the two pieces together. If you are working with Finecast, use superglue.

Thanks. I actually was a bit confused when Hawky said it would work. But then again he said 'it's not optimal', so I just got that wrong...

I've been using Amazing Goop the whole time of gamed.

I use Loctite Regular Super Glue with the long tip. Its $3 at walmart. Its great for my plastic models and whenever i wanna switch arms its easy to just snap off.

I'll consider these two as well then, thanks.

@Stephanius: Great post and great help, thanks! I usually try to keep my models as clean as possible and it's new models I use it on (so no paint stripped ones). But what I do do is that I sometimes adjust the position of the pieces shortly after sticking them together. The manager at my local GW told me I could do that without any issues, but maybe he was wrong...

So, I think I might give GW glue one last go – this time no adjusting whatsoever. If it doesn't work, I'll give one of the glues you guys recommended a go.
Thanks everyone!

You can adjust a plastic glue joint, but you should do it right away, while the solvent is still active.

If you pull a test joint apart after a few minutes, you will see strands of plastic connecting the two pieces. Those strands are twisted and maybe snapped. That's what weakens the joint.

So to be safe, you stick the two pieces together and position them as quick as you can - the only reason to wait a few seconds is to add another bit that that needs to join up. I've had no problems with adjustments done within a minute or so, but as always - your milage may vary. ;-]

 Stephanius wrote:
You can adjust a plastic glue joint, but you should do it right away, while the solvent is still active.

If you pull a test joint apart after a few minutes, you will see strands of plastic connecting the two pieces. Those strands are twisted and maybe snapped. That's what weakens the joint.

So to be safe, you stick the two pieces together and position them as quick as you can - the only reason to wait a few seconds is to add another bit that that needs to join up. I've had no problems with adjustments done within a minute or so, but as always - your milage may vary. ;-]

Ok, thanks. I'll do this from now on.

Does anyone know a good way to remove the plastic glue off the plastic when it breaks off? I use files but it takes ages and it's impossible to reach some places on the model (e.g. the two holes in a SM torso).

OP, have you checked for greasy marks on the joints? I got a batch of greasy models at Xmas and had a similar problem. But then I actually noticed the problem and either scratched off the surface layer or washed and it worked. For reference I also use GW glue as its within 10mins walking distance. It was the exact same bottle of glue too so it may be the cause of your problems.

 FlamestormA wrote:

A bit late but thought I would chip in. I had the same issues with GW glue, I switched to Revel Contacta and would never change. One tip if you use this is if it blocks after a couple weeks of non use a lighter on the end to burn it away, good as new.

Superglue will work on everything (finecast) but also your fingets!

It's never too late . I googled the Revel Contacta glue and people seem to like it. Thanks for the hint with the lighter, I will definitely do that if I go for this glue. Now, it appears like you are using the glue with the needle, what do you think of the one with the brush?

I use Revell Contacta even for resin models. It's not optimal, I know. It breaks if you make some pressure on it, but standatd is absolutely without any problem.
When you screw something up, it could be easily repaired by breaking it, brushing off remains of glue and gluing it again.

For now I will only use it for plastic. Tbh I try to avoid finecast but it's good to know that this glue works for both. Good to know that this glue can easily be brushed off. I hate it when the plastic glue bonds break and I can't stick them back together .

I got the one with the needle, I figured it would be more precise, I think I was right as I used superglue with a brush and its/me is messier.

 Deadshot wrote:
OP, have you checked for greasy marks on the joints? I got a batch of greasy models at Xmas and had a similar problem. But then I actually noticed the problem and either scratched off the surface layer or washed and it worked. For reference I also use GW glue as its within 10mins walking distance. It was the exact same bottle of glue too so it may be the cause of your problems.

Thank you for your post. Yes, I'll be more careful from now on, cleaning the models properly when they need it.


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ids1984 wrote:

 FlamestormA wrote:

A bit late but thought I would chip in. I had the same issues with GW glue, I switched to Revel Contacta and would never change. One tip if you use this is if it blocks after a couple weeks of non use a lighter on the end to burn it away, good as new.

Superglue will work on everything (finecast) but also your fingets!

It's never too late . I googled the Revel Contacta glue and people seem to like it. Thanks for the hint with the lighter, I will definitely do that if I go for this glue. Now, it appears like you are using the glue with the needle, what do you think of the one with the brush?

I use Revell Contacta even for resin models. It's not optimal, I know. It breaks if you make some pressure on it, but standatd is absolutely without any problem.
When you screw something up, it could be easily repaired by breaking it, brushing off remains of glue and gluing it again.

For now I will only use it for plastic. Tbh I try to avoid finecast but it's good to know that this glue works for both. Good to know that this glue can easily be brushed off. I hate it when the plastic glue bonds break and I can't stick them back together .

I got the one with the needle, I figured it would be more precise, I think I was right as I used superglue with a brush and its/me is messier.

That's what I thought. If I don't 'stick' with GW glue, I'll get one with a needle.

I use testors model glue and super glue. I have used GW glue recently (in the last 6 months) and have had no problems with it, so far its indistinguishable from my testors but maybe they changed the formula? I have heard nothing but bad things about GW glue from my buddies who have been at the hobby for a bit longer than me so I know there is at least some merit to the complaints. Just as an FYi superglue gets brittle if the model is stored at very low temperatures. If you keep them in the garage in Minnesota or someplace it gets chilly this is something to consider. I have had models basically fall to pieces on me.

 FlamestormA wrote:

 Stephanius wrote:
You can adjust a plastic glue joint, but you should do it right away, while the solvent is still active.

If you pull a test joint apart after a few minutes, you will see strands of plastic connecting the two pieces. Those strands are twisted and maybe snapped. That's what weakens the joint.

So to be safe, you stick the two pieces together and position them as quick as you can - the only reason to wait a few seconds is to add another bit that that needs to join up. I've had no problems with adjustments done within a minute or so, but as always - your milage may vary. ;-]

Ok, thanks. I'll do this from now on.

Does anyone know a good way to remove the plastic glue off the plastic when it breaks off? I use files but it takes ages and it's impossible to reach some places on the model (e.g. the two holes in a SM torso).

The plastic glue will be gone, it reacts with the plastic and merges with it. To reglue a plastic joint, I just cut, file or sand the surfaces smooth again - otherwise you don't have good contact surface.

 Stephanius wrote:

 FlamestormA wrote:

 Stephanius wrote:
You can adjust a plastic glue joint, but you should do it right away, while the solvent is still active.

If you pull a test joint apart after a few minutes, you will see strands of plastic connecting the two pieces. Those strands are twisted and maybe snapped. That's what weakens the joint.

So to be safe, you stick the two pieces together and position them as quick as you can - the only reason to wait a few seconds is to add another bit that that needs to join up. I've had no problems with adjustments done within a minute or so, but as always - your milage may vary. ;-]

Ok, thanks. I'll do this from now on.

Does anyone know a good way to remove the plastic glue off the plastic when it breaks off? I use files but it takes ages and it's impossible to reach some places on the model (e.g. the two holes in a SM torso).

The plastic glue will be gone, it reacts with the plastic and merges with it. To reglue a plastic joint, I just cut, file or sand the surfaces smooth again - otherwise you don't have good contact surface.

Yeah, that's what I meant. How to clean the surface of a plasticglued piece of plastic. But it sounds like you do it the same way as me.


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@Spartak: When you say low temperatures, how low do you mean?