Switch Theme:

Greenstuff work  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in us
Neophyte Undergoing Surgeries






I'm big into custom modelling and doing lots of conversions and whatnot, but I have a hard time using greenstuff and making it look clean and defined. I see tons of builders who make whole models out of greenstuff which are incredible, but I can never seem to get the defined edges and things that they do. In fact, I just emailed Forgeworld, and they said that all their models are hand sculpted as well. I just dont understand how they can get the right edges and the immense detail that they do. Below are links to pictures of what I'm talking about. How do I accomplish this kind of greenstuff work?
http://www.coolminiornot.com/pics/pics12/img4782a64994db4.jpg
http://www.beastsofwar.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Scibor-Necromancer-Green.jpg
http://www.lead-adventure.de/index.php?topic=34585.0
[Thumb - 23842_sm-Chaplain, Dark Angels, Deathwing, Greenstuff, Sculpting, Space Marines, Terminator Armor.jpg]

[Thumb - images (2).jpg]

   
Made in de
Slaanesh Chosen Marine Riding a Fiend





Babenhausen, Germany

There are a few thing that can be done to get sharper edges.

- First off wet you tools when you work. (Water, saliva, oil, vaseline, and so on)
- Then you can touchup your work after it has cured for one or two hours to sharpen the details.
- You can sand and file GS if it is properly cured to get sharper edges - especially if you mix in some harder cureing putty like milliput. Just use a very fine grit sand paper.
- Also keep a close look at the tools you use. The sharper the tool the better they are for the edge corners. (Maybe even use a knife.) To get smooth egdes along a longer area you can use clay shaper rather well to get it more even.
- Working in layers helps for getting smoother details. You don't risk distending the surface if it is already cured. (And sanded if it was necessary)

- The last two pictures are using pressed details. The idea is that you build a negative mold by pushing in those thin lines in your master(as well as bits and other sculpted details). Just use some more hard curing putty that is less sticky than GS and press those lines in with for example some thin stripes of plastic in the shape you want. You can layer these lines in differnt sized shapes and depth. And then once that is cured you press GS onto the mold to get the actuall positive result. Wait for the GS to cure somewhat then cut it into shape and wrap/glue it on the model. If you look very closely on the terminator honour on the chest for example you'll notice that the lines aren't perfectly sharp and the inner egdes are somewhat curved. That is a good sign of pressmolding.


Edit:
Totally forgot...
- The already mentioned GS - milliput mix is better for sharper details than pure GS as it isn't as rubbery.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/10/17 19:58:38


   
Made in gb
Rotting Sorcerer of Nurgle





Portsmouth UK

Try this article:
http://sciborminiatures.com/en_,sculpting.php?id=571

Check out my gallery here
Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!! 
   
Made in gb
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran



UK - Warwickshire

I'm no good at sculpting either :(
But I can say that that elements, if not the whole lot of the GS work on some of those images you posted, the top one especially. Are done with press moulds. Copying elements of other models onto the on your working with.

Quite likely done with instant mould. Although GS itself can be used to make a mould, but involves mould release, where as the instant mould (aka oyumaru) does not.


'Ain't nothing crazy about me but my brain. Right brain? Riight! No not you right brain! Right left brain? Right!... Okay then lets do this!! 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: